hello all, spring maintenance questions - Page 2 - Kawasaki Vulcan Forum : Vulcan Forums
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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-03-2019, 08:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tynker View Post
Thanks, I was not aware of that,only what the parts counter man has told me. I have used the yellow bottle ever since it first came out. I have noticed that every 2 years when I replace my brake/clutch fluid, that there seems to be no moisture content in the fluid, like it did with the old dot 4, brown bottle.
"the yellow bottle", "brown bottle" What brand(s) are you talking about?

Edit:
By "seems to be no moisture content in the fluid" do you mean it didn't turn as dark? The color change is a combo of moisture and breakdown of the shorter chains in regular PEG. If you are actually seeing moisture in your brake fluid, you have a BIG problem! It does sound like the yellow bottle stuff you got is of higher molecular weight, though.

Installed:
RAM mount for TomTom Rider 400 (with anti theft module)
6000k LED Headlight & Spots; Kisan Headlight Modulator (works with LEDs),
__Brake Light Modulator, LED License Plate Holder
Longer Kickstand
Dobeck EJK 3.0
Lucky Mirror Extenders
Misc. RAM Mounts for Cup Holder, SPOT, Phone, etc.
Chuckster BAK, Trailer Hitch and Cooler Rack
Wiring for Trailer
Ray's Throttle Mod
Things to do:
Drilling Baffle Plates (Maybe)
Paint HF Tag Along Trailer to Match Bike

LET'S RIDE

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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-03-2019, 11:05 PM Thread Starter
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I ordered oem pads today, paid 10 bucks more than the dealer just over an hour away that couldn't get them for 3 to 4 more days and had to pay 10 bucks extra for 1 to 3 day delivery so i hopefully get them in time for this weekend. Still tying to figure out the coolant for sure and the feeler guages.

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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-04-2019, 07:19 AM
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Valve Adjustment - Tanked402, there is a 2 part video on Youtube where a guy videos a valve adjustment on his 900. I've watched it, and feel confident that I could do the procedure. I believe he also includes info on how to get the shims for less than $80.



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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-04-2019, 01:19 PM Thread Starter
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Valve Adjustment - Tanked402, there is a 2 part video on Youtube where a guy videos a valve adjustment on his 900. I've watched it, and feel confident that I could do the procedure. I believe he also includes info on how to get the shims for less than $80.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NrDNw957mcw

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YZHW33TMDL0
Awesome thanks for the links, i thought i checked youtube but couldnt find anything on the 900 specifically. Ill be sure to watch these after work to get a better idea of what i need to do

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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-05-2019, 04:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sabre-t View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by tanked402 View Post
How would you drain the system that way since the reservoir is lower than the caliper? (At least for the rear brake) I got some of the motorcraft dot 4 lv this morning so ill be ready to do the brake flush tonight possibly.

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Use a speed bleeder device to suck the fluid out.
I accidentally drained my front brake during a fluid change. I learned the hard way that you can't push fluid through an empty line with the brake lever. You need something to suck it through the caliper. I used a vinyl hose and turkey baster. No local shops could sell me a bleeder!
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post #16 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-06-2019, 11:28 AM
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If you have not already, pick up a service manual. More than worth the cost with just one diy job.

As far as brake pads. Your choice, I went with OEM less hard on the rotors, good bite, They (the brakes) will still lock up when pushed.
You can get a perfect flush when you change out the pads. I picked up 3 syringes at the local pharm. for about $5ea. for withdrawing fluid out of the masters and slaves.
Changed mine out around 35000miles still lots of life left, keeping them for spares

The valves inspection, Sounds like you are at the mileage for one. Pretty strait forward, manual is great. The first couple of inspections required adjustment on mine.
I was able to use some of the shims from the installed ones, have only needed to pick up 6 shims total, and have plenty to make a few more adjustments in the future.
Pick up high quality feeler gauges, I picked up a set of brass ones, no magnetic interference. A small mechs magnet is great for removing and installing the shims.
Don't forget to block of the opening for the cam chain. You do not want to go there, when/if a shim fall into your crankcase.

If you are changing out coolant every 2-3 years as per spec. Any quality coolant for alumshould be fine.

Good Luck, Ride save & Often

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post #17 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-06-2019, 03:29 PM
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new honda cars have aluminum motors so i get my rad fluid from the honda car dealership a jug of honda type-2 50/50 pre-mix

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post #18 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-06-2019, 04:32 PM
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I didn't realize there was aluminum specific engine coolant. Would the bottle usually specify if its aluminum compatible? I bought engine ice over the winter to change my fluid...

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post #19 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-07-2019, 08:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tanked402 View Post

Another side note I work at a Ford/Hyundai dealership so keep that in mind.
Then you are all set. Use Hyundai DOT4 brake fluid, a Hyundai 26300-35504 oil filter, and the green Hyundai Long Life coolant that you will mix 50/50 with distilled water.

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Originally Posted by tanked402 View Post
brake pads - Im pretty much settled on purchasing OEM pads here ( dont want the sintered pads since reading around says they are rough ...
OEM pads ARE sintered pads. Forget Kawasaki pads, you can't afford them. Get aftermarket EBC brake pads. I like the semi-sintered version.

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Originally Posted by tanked402 View Post
I added this section though is i remember seeing someone here mention they use the Hyundai oil filter 26300-35504 which we sell tons of those every day and i can get them cheaper than the supertech filter ($4.50 for the hyundai filter maybe its not cheaper than the supertech cant remember at the moment, anyone have any experience with this filter).
The "Hyundai" filter (made by Mann) is waaaayyyyy better than the Kawasaki factory filter and since you work there, you are literally right next to cases and cases of Hyundai oil filters.

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Originally Posted by tanked402 View Post
Also I have never changed the oil plug gasket didnt know it needed it but ive read the past few days that your supposed to.
Change the crush washer. If you work at a Hyundai Platinum dealer the mechanic will tell you that he/she can be FIRED for failing to do so on a Hyundai oil change. No exceptions to the rule if it is a Genesis. Hyundai-Kia don't mess around on a Genesis product.
it is a 12mm aluminum crush washer. The Hyundai versions will not fit. You can get these at the auto parts store by the handful for next to nothing.


Quote:
Originally Posted by tanked402 View Post
valve check - And this brings me to the scariest part of my journey. Ive wrenched on cars for a number of years and consider myself mechanically inclined (tech inclined too) but never had to do anything internally with an engine that could cause serious damage. I do have the kawi service manual and have looked that over and it does seem pretty straight forward. My biggest concern is the feeler gauges should i spend the money on a nicer set or would a cheaper set be as accurate. And the hot cams shim kit, do i really need to spend 60 - 80 bucks on a kit or is there a kit around that anyone here would recommend as the most used shims to save a little dough.
Talk to the Kawasaki Parts/service dept. Once you get you shims rounded up that you need you can get just the one or two from them (and they probably have them in stock). Sometimes they will swap them out with your shims for nothing if you do other business with them.
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post #20 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-07-2019, 12:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rider 50 View Post
If you have not already, pick up a service manual. More than worth the cost with just one diy job.

As far as brake pads. Your choice, I went with OEM less hard on the rotors, good bite, They (the brakes) will still lock up when pushed.
You can get a perfect flush when you change out the pads. I picked up 3 syringes at the local pharm. for about $5ea. for withdrawing fluid out of the masters and slaves.
Changed mine out around 35000miles still lots of life left, keeping them for spares

The valves inspection, Sounds like you are at the mileage for one. Pretty strait forward, manual is great. The first couple of inspections required adjustment on mine.
I was able to use some of the shims from the installed ones, have only needed to pick up 6 shims total, and have plenty to make a few more adjustments in the future.
Pick up high quality feeler gauges, I picked up a set of brass ones, no magnetic interference. A small mechs magnet is great for removing and installing the shims.
Don't forget to block of the opening for the cam chain. You do not want to go there, when/if a shim fall into your crankcase.

If you are changing out coolant every 2-3 years as per spec. Any quality coolant for alumshould be fine.

Good Luck, Ride save & Often
Some aluminium safe coolants contain metasilicates. Metasilicates are a huge no-no in cooling systems not designed for using them.
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Installed:
RAM mount for TomTom Rider 400 (with anti theft module)
6000k LED Headlight & Spots; Kisan Headlight Modulator (works with LEDs),
__Brake Light Modulator, LED License Plate Holder
Longer Kickstand
Dobeck EJK 3.0
Lucky Mirror Extenders
Misc. RAM Mounts for Cup Holder, SPOT, Phone, etc.
Chuckster BAK, Trailer Hitch and Cooler Rack
Wiring for Trailer
Ray's Throttle Mod
Things to do:
Drilling Baffle Plates (Maybe)
Paint HF Tag Along Trailer to Match Bike

LET'S RIDE
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