VN900 Front Pulley Maintenance - Kawasaki Vulcan Forum : Vulcan Forums
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-26-2017, 09:51 AM Thread Starter
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VN900 Front Pulley Maintenance

When I buy a bike, I usually pull it apart to a great deal, and fix what the factory and the dealership forgot, so that my ride will be to a "known" mechanical standard to me.

I bought a 2016 VN900CFG in Oct 16, and now with 1500mi on it I am just now getting around to "exploring" some factory/dealership maintenance on it.

One thing I wanted to check was the grease, or lack of it on the drive pulley, that will prevent it, and the counter shaft from wearing out. So, after obtaining a Kawasaki 57001-1672 rotor holder off ebay to hold the pulley, I was all set.

See pictures below.
From the factory there was but a drop of moly on the nut. Yes, exactly a drop. The countershaft was dry with nothing on it as was the inside of the pulley splines. Yes, they are cleaned in the pictures below, but looked exactly the same as when I took them apart. If this condition were allowed to exist, shaft and pulley wear are guaranteed to happen. I advise you, or your mechanic, to have a look at your pulley during your next maintenance stop.

I used a new nut and washer. Coated them both liberally with Honda-77 Moly. Also applied Moly to the pulley splines and counter shaft splines as to prevent "fretting" there. Same drill I do to the drive splines of my shaft-drive motorcycle. For reference, ALL drive splines on any motorcycle that are not lubed by gear oil or engine oil should have Moly applied to them to prevent wear. Sorry I don't have any pictures of what these parts look like after I applied the grease to them. My hands were dirty. Just imagine a very liberal amount.

During belt adjustment, there is 28 1/2 inches of span from the front pulley to the rear pulley at the bottom. The mid-point @ about 14" is right in front of the rear frame crossbar, exactly where Kawasaki tells you to place the spring gauge. The belt deflection inspection window is 6" forward of the rear pulley. When adjusting the belt, @ 10lbs, I had 9mm deflection at mid-point and 4mm deflection at the inspection window. Going to try this awhile as it is within factory spec and I have not had any problems so far.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-26-2017, 09:53 AM Thread Starter
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Sorry, couldn't get all pics in one post.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-27-2017, 07:04 PM
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I have read of a few failures because of this but overall not many.

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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-27-2017, 08:20 PM
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Thanks for that post.
I was thinking about checking mine for the same reasons as you on the bike I bought during the winter. You just convinced me.
I have the rear wheel off now waiting for two seals to arrive after putting a tire on it.
It is too easy a job not to do to be sure. Now is the time.
Kevin

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-23-2017, 07:33 AM
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Just did this maintenance myself.
The nut was so tight I had to use my foot to loosen it! Splines were corosion free but dry so I put some LiquiMoly LM 47 LONG-LIFE GREASE between it and the pulley. Also had to loosen the rear axle and the belt for the pulley .
I torqued everything according to specs but will check it in a few days again in case it gets loose. I did not grease the nut , only where it touches the washer which I reused.
Very difficult to get other grease with more MoS2 here and did not want to mess with the local Kawasaki dealer to get new washer or nut.
Maybe I will order new ones online and change them during the summer.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-31-2017, 12:50 PM
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I don't believe it is much of a maintenance issue since the output shaft bearing is internal to the case. If the bearing fails you have to remove the engine and split the case to replace it. As long as the nut is torqued properly you should be good to go.

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-31-2017, 02:54 PM
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Personally, I'd go ahead and lube the splines. The VN750's were hit and miss for proper final drive lubrication. Some of the driveshaft systems failed before the bike reached 15,000 miles. Even worse, you'd be lucky to find a shop who ever heard about it. I had one that failed and the splines on the rear-end were just nubs. Had to sell off all the goodies on the bike just to get a decent used rear-end. A new one was around $1,000.

I don't understand why wear areas like this get missed for proper greasing.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-31-2017, 03:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluecruiser View Post
I don't believe it is much of a maintenance issue since the output shaft bearing is internal to the case. If the bearing fails you have to remove the engine and split the case to replace it. As long as the nut is torqued properly you should be good to go.
They are not talking about the bearing.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-06-2018, 09:14 AM
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I feel the need to bump this thread as I am doing two of the Vulcan 900's this weekend. Mine and my dads. I need help finding comparable substituts for the grease, and need to know the torque spec for the pulley nut.

This is a great thread and something that will ruin our bikes if this shaft / pulley spline issue is not addressed.

-2006 Yamaha Stratoliner XV1900, 13k miles.
-2006 Kawasaki Vulcan 900, 14k miles, Blue Collar Bobber Build.
-1976 Kawasaki KT250 trials - all original.
-1975 Kawasaki KT250 trials - beater.
-1975 2x Suzuki RL250 trials bikes.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-06-2018, 09:53 AM
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My Clymer book states Engine Pulley Nut 127 N.m or 94 ft-lbs (it gives the engine pulley torque in the chapter on belt and wheels, rather than chapter for engine)

Clymer says use a moly greese. Honda moly greese is what I've found is recommended as the highest quality for my shaft drive MC's previously.




Lucas lubricants get high marks also.
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