No problem, but first the lecture. Always troubleshoot a problem to determine the fault rather than just replacing parts. The shotgun method usually results in a wallet that is much lighter and a bike that is not repaired. There are lots of folks here that can help you out with any questions.
Step by step is what you shall receive.
Do you have access to an analog meter? That is prefered.
If not, post back with the make and model # of the meter that you will be using, whether it be digital or analog.
Thanks for the advice!
The stator was definitely bad, it was burnt up. But I should have checked the regulator before running it
Just out of curiosity (as I'm trying to learn), what is the advantage of an analog meter?
He actually has 3 fluke multimeters (and a handful of other load testers and multi-thousand-volt-thingamajigs that he uses for work). I don't recall seeing an analog one in there. The one I was using was a Fluke 87V.
Thanks for the help!
Rode it home, 41 miles. Ran fine all the way home but towards the end the headlights started to get progressively dimmer. Wouldn't start once I was home.
I charged the battery to "81%" according to a digital charger my bro in law had. Rode it to my Fiancee's house 12 miles. Then, cleaned the corrosion with sandpaper, and idled it for 30 minutes with high beams on, shut it off, started back up. Then, rode it home 41 miles, finally- dead.
I know you're going to kill me for not testing the regulator first
, but it is what it is and that's what I did. So, I dunno, just bouncing this off of you- doesn't that seem more like (and yes, yes, I will test it) like a regulator, like, it's getting SOME juice but not enough? Seems odd for the battery to last THAT long before it dying, doesn't it? Is it possible to exhibit those symptoms if, say, one or two of those white connections was loose or poorly soldered? I've never had an issue soldering before, I like to think I'm pretty good at, but that's far from me being able to rule out my own incompetence as to why this isn't working
REALLY crossing my fingers that it's the regulator and whatever test you tell me to do reveals that. I don't wanna dive into that engine again, drain the oil AGAIN, have to buy more oil AGAIN, etc. etc. Although, I suppose I could re-solder the connections without cracking the inner cover... I dunno.
Thanks sfair. Lemme know!