So, through a little more thinking and a prayer to the motorcycle gods, I got it to work. For those that have or will purchase the diode kit (any brand they're all the same), you will have to splice into the turn signal indicator bulb wires in the meter unit and the connecting harness to the main circuit board that houses the speedo. Once you get into the meter unit, disconnect the circuit that houses the indicator bulbs from the speedo board. There will be a wire harness that has 8 wires with the black (ground) wire being #8. The wires you need to splice into will be #5 and #6. If you are unsure of which wires they are, flip the circuit board over and look at the light green paths that go from the middle bulb (turn signal indicator) to the wire harness, these are the internal electronic connections. If this is the first time you've ever looked at a circuit board, there is usually a contrast of color (typically a dark/light green combo) to indicate the internal connections inside the board itself. Now, take your time here because you really don't want to mess up!! Cut #5, #6, and black (ground) wires and strip back enough to splice. Take either #5 or #6 ON THE BULB BOARD SIDE it doesn't matter and splice into ground making sure you reconnect the black wires from the wire harness and the bulb board too. Take the single wire side of the diode kit (on Kury's it's the blue wire) and splice to either #5 or #6 wire ON THE BULB BOARD SIDE. Now, splice the two wire side of the diode kit (on Kury's it's the red wires) to #5 and #6 wires ON THE WIRE HARNESS SIDE. You should have a reconnected wire harness to the bulb board now. Tape everything up, reconnect bulb board to speedo board, reinstall in meter unit and you should be good to go. I'm glad it worked because otherwise I would've had to re-splice the original wires back together and there isn't much length to work with to begin with. The only issue I have after the install is that my turn signal indicator light no longer comes on when either turn signal is pressed. After thinking, I believe this is due to the bulb still being an incandescent bulb, and with the diode kit it reduces the amount of voltage being sent to the bulb. Not a big deal, it will pass inspection and I can always order an LED indicator bulb or just habitually press the turn signal switch after a turn.
Now that I've successfully done this mod, I'll give a summation of the research I've done for those that are thinking of making the switch. **This only applies to changing your turn signals; if you are adding LED accent lights or marker lights I don't believe you have to change these components, you will just be adding an additional circuit to your bike. Also, I have not researched what is involved by changing your headlight to an LED unit, so there may be more involved with that.**
-If you are changing either the fronts OR the rears, you will only need a single dual-load equalizer to bring the flash rate back to normal.
-If you are changing both the fronts AND the rears, you will need a quad-load equalizer or two dual-load equalizers to normalize the flash rate.
-For VN900s, due to us having a single turn signal indicator light, you will need the diode kit and install it inside the meter unit.
-An alternative solution, but one that I have not tried, is to purchase a solid state (electronic) turn signal relay and swap out your stock thermal based one. Supposedly, this is a direct alternative for the load equalizer(s) for either doing just one end of turns OR doing both ends. Also, I am not sure if replacing the turn signal relay with the solid state one will eliminate the need for the diode kit for VN900s. In essence, LEDs are less of a load in the circuit, and a solid state relay removes the load dependence for proper functionality of the turns. Theoretically, the same amount of voltage from a stock setup (12V) will still flow through the circuit with 4 LED turns and 1 incandescent indicator bulb; however, the concern that arises in my mind is the voltage the incandescent bulb is rated for and now due to the LEDs not dropping as much voltage there may be an increased chance that the bulb will burn out. In retrospect, I believe (don't quote me on this) that the most cost effective and less risky solution to switching to LED turns would be to purchase the solid state relay and an LED indicator bulb. This in theory would normalize the flash rate AND bring all the loads in the circuit down to similar amounts, so proper functionality will occur.
I apologize for the long post, but I wanted to give back to the biker community with feedback from someone who has successfully done this mod. Through all my research, all I was looking for was someone who has done this mod and can give me any hints as to what I need and how to do it, not just the general installation instructions and product information from the manufacturers.
2010 VN900 Custom
I have this addiction.....it can't send me to jail, but it sure can make me go broke....