Calling all rear brake experts... - Kawasaki Vulcan Forum : Vulcan Forums
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-18-2012, 06:35 PM Thread Starter
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Calling all rear brake experts...

So, yesterday during a quick inspection of my air pressure in my rear tire, I noticed that my rotor looked a bit rough. As I further inspected it, I found that my rear brakes looked like they were out of pad and sure enough, after removing the caliper, I found them to be metal to metal..... Now this is the second set of rear brakes to be put on my kaw. I change out the first pair around 18,000 but didn't see the kind of wear that I experienced over the last 14,000 miles... My rotor is trashed, so I have a new one ordered. My question is, does it sound right to have the pads completely worn down in 14,000 miles or should I be suspecting that the caliper is not releasing enough to keep from contacting the rotor..... I am going to pull the caliper and take it inside to the work bench to get a real good look at it, and wonder what I should be looking for..... I did notice that my rear brake fluid looks a little low, and I have heard the rear brake rubbing ever since changing it out last time, just a little, which I thought would go away once the brake pads set to the rotor.... Any advice would be helpful......

Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting'..... “what a ride”!' George Carlin
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-18-2012, 08:38 PM
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Sounds like the caliper has been binding and needs to be changed or rebuilt. I've had with issue with cars.

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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-18-2012, 10:58 PM
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contaminated brake fluid causing rubber parts to expand ? weak return spring on pedal ?
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-18-2012, 11:02 PM
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Right foot resting on the brake pedal, causing a very slight drag?

2006 VN900 Classic LT - Red and Black
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-19-2012, 03:16 PM
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Build up on the piston surface, not allowing the piston to move freely? Piston rotating slightly in the cylinder after the last pad change, not allowing the piston to move correctly? Binding in the linkage to the reservoir, not allowing the linkage to fully disengage and thus keeping false positive pressure in the reservoir?

2006 VN900 Classic LT - Red and Black
Stage III Stock Pipes - K&N Filter in Stock Box - Amsoil - 170/80 Kenda Kruz - Saddlemen Explorer - Willie & Max Windshield Bag - Mutazu Passenger Floor Boards - Shorai Heavy Duty Battery - Kawasaki Lowers - Black Universal Trunk mounted on Mutazu Rack - Osram 70/65w Plus 50
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-19-2012, 07:50 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, the results are in.... I took the caliper off and found the problem right away. Looks like the spring pad,,, part # 92145 somehow got buggered up on the one end. I think it was keeping the inside pad from retracting, which caused both pads to wear quickly. I've disassembled the cylinders to replace the two packing gaskets per cylinder, and the caliper boots, so once I get all the parts in, I should be good to go... I checked out the cylinders, which had a little roughness on the outsides towards the outside edge, but the rest of them looked good once out of the caliper. No scoring on the inside that I could see, so hopefully once I get them back together all will be in working order....

One question King43, you mention the piston rotating slightly in the cylinder.... is there a specific way to re-insert the pistons into the cylinder upon reassembly? I really don't see any specific way to insert them.....

Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting'..... “what a ride”!' George Carlin
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-19-2012, 09:00 PM
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Not that I am aware of; I was just thinking in the realm of all possibility that if there were any guides in the cylinder that a rotation may have caused them to ride on top of instead of in.

2006 VN900 Classic LT - Red and Black
Stage III Stock Pipes - K&N Filter in Stock Box - Amsoil - 170/80 Kenda Kruz - Saddlemen Explorer - Willie & Max Windshield Bag - Mutazu Passenger Floor Boards - Shorai Heavy Duty Battery - Kawasaki Lowers - Black Universal Trunk mounted on Mutazu Rack - Osram 70/65w Plus 50
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-20-2012, 06:30 PM Thread Starter
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King 43, thanks for the feedback. I'll let you know how things go back together once I get all the parts in..... Hopefully by Friday the parts will arrive for a weekend fix-er-upper. I reseated the old seals just to see how hard it will be to get the piston to go through and was pleasantly surprised that it was not all that hard to get the piston to thread through them....

Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting'..... “what a ride”!' George Carlin
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-20-2012, 08:19 PM
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Remember...no petroleum based products to be used on ANY braking component! That includes solvents for cleaning.
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-20-2012, 09:48 PM Thread Starter
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sfair, thanks for the quantifier..... I dabbed some brake fluid on the rubber seals and the piston to give it some lubrication before inserting..... I assume that is OK as it needs something to allow it to slip through the rubber rings...... Also, it looks like they use grease on the two metal shafts that the brake glides on to open and shut, in the rubber boots....

Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting'..... “what a ride”!' George Carlin
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