How to remove the rear tire on a VN900c??? - Kawasaki Vulcan Forum : Vulcan Forums
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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 08-27-2010, 05:19 PM Thread Starter
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How to remove the rear tire on a VN900c???

The local shop around my parts charges 60 bucks to replace a rear tire and I am cheap. I work at a tire shop so if i can get it off the bike i can replace the tire. If anyone knows of a walk-through (With pics preferred) could you please post a link.
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 08-27-2010, 08:01 PM
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Get the rear of your bike up in the air so that you can spin the wheel. Spin the wheel and see where the belt is tracking. Press up on the belt and see how much pressure is on the belt. You'll want to put it back where it was when you're done.

Carefully bend the cotter pin on the pipe side straight and remove it from the Axle castle nut. Loosen the castle nut a turn.
The axle goes through two tensioners, one on each side. They have a lock nut and an adjuster nut. They also have a notch that show where they are positioned on each side of the bike frame. Take note of where they are. If you use the same size tire you should be able to put them right back and everything will be hunky dory.
Unloosen the lock nuts and take them off, take off the adjuster nuts. The axle should slide forward a bit.
Remove the upper and lower belt shields.
On the pipe side, remove the brake caliper. Check the pads, might be convenient to change them but it's a five minute job anytime. I cover the pipes with blue jean pants legs and gently lay the caliper over on them.
Take the castle nut off and the washer behind.
Now, the easiest way to take the axle out is to take the weight of the tire off of it. If you've used a hydraulic jack, release pressure till the axle slides easily. First thing off on the pipe side is the tensioner. Notice that both of them are offset, they have a flat side that goes against the frame. When you re-install them you'll need to put them on that way.
Next thing off on the pipe side is the brake caliper mount, then spacer, then the wheel, then the other side spacer, then the far side tensioner. The tensioner can cock on hold the axle although the pipe side one will just be pulled flat against the frame. If you axle sticks all of a sudden, check the far side tensioner and push it against the frame. If you've just taken the weight of the wheel off the axle it will slide easily off. Place it somewhere clean.
Push the tire forward a bit and jack the back of the bike back up if you can. Now, another way to take the weight off the axle is to jam something under the tire. If you've used your foot take it out and get the tire on the floor. Hopefully you have enough clearance to get the tire out from under the bike. You need only to get the wheel far enough forward and tip the wheel so you can pull the belt off the pulley, then rotate the tire and feed the rest of the belt off the tire. If you have enough clearance it's just a matter of pulling the wheel out. If you don't have enough clearance, well, There are 2 bolts per side to take the chromy frame covers off. Then 2 bolts under neath that hold the fender and support on. You'll need to take the seat off, the seat bracket (leave the release spring hooked up and just set it forward. on top of the tool box. Speaking of which, pull the cable group plug and get it out of the way so that the rear light assembly can come free. AND pull the fender. Oh, unscrew the front bolts on that fender assy first and do the rear last. When you pull the last rear bolt the rear of the fender will drop. Lower the rear of the fender and rotate it off the pin at the front and pull the fender out from between the frame supports.

OK, now the fender is out of the way, just pull the dang wheel out from between the fender supports and take it to the shop.

Reverse the procedure to return the wheel to INSTALLED. After getting the axle nuts close and the Tensioners close to the same marks where they were, spin the wheel to make sure it tracks right and check to see if the belt tension is correct. Every thing righty right tighten the axle castle nut down then back it off a bit till the hole in the axle lines up with the castle nut and put the cotter pin back in. If it was looking ragged, you might buy a new one at the hardware store, it's nothing unique.

Hope that's good enough.
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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 08-30-2010, 12:36 AM Thread Starter
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thanks for the reply, is there any torque specs for any of the nuts you take off?
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 08-30-2010, 06:56 AM
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Torque - Rear Axle Nut: 108 Nm (11.0 kgfm, 79.7 ftlb)
Rear Caliper Mounting Bolts: 34 Nm (3.5 kgfm,
25 ftlb)

The tensioners just get the belt right and tighten the locknut firm against the tensioner nut. If you have to take any fender bolts off make sure and use locktight when you put them back on.
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