Kuryakyn Rear Bullets ... right side blinks at hi rpms??? - Kawasaki Vulcan Forum : Vulcan Forums
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-17-2010, 05:52 PM Thread Starter
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Kuryakyn LED Bullets ... blinking issues...

ok... didn't see anything like this in the forums

i just installed the Kury red RUN-TURN small bullets in the back and when i start the bike and the RPMs are high... the right light blinks but not like when it does for the turn signal. it is like a random blink because a few are quick then slow and so on...

once the bike warms up and goes to idle ...approx. 1000RPMs the light is solid and works fine... BUT once you rev the throttle it starts doing it again?!?!

i tried powering it directly from the battery... i moved the ground... nothing?!?!

any ideas??? the left one is fine?!?! stays solid and flashes for turns like it should even when at the higher RPM during start... i'm confused.

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Last edited by jagered; 08-18-2010 at 07:41 PM.
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-17-2010, 06:36 PM Thread Starter
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ok... i disconnected one of the grounds and am only using one of them (from original lights)... it worked up to about 1800-2000 RPMs?!?!

i read something about the voltage changes can "freak out" LED lights when rev'ing because the charging system is putting out higher volts... how do you regulate that to the LED's because they came with nothing?!?! other than the load equalizer to make the flashing function properly.

thanks

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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-17-2010, 08:10 PM Thread Starter
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a little more research...

LOAD BACK??? read that even the running lights need to have some type of load/resistance - even though kury's instructions say to go right to the power source - i read about 5WATTS works best so if you put a resistor inline with the ground you'd get it???

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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-17-2010, 10:31 PM Thread Starter
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everyone stumped???

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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-18-2010, 03:10 AM
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Not sure, but I would think that the resistance would have to go in parallel with the load; otherwise, if you put the resistance in series, all you are doing is dropping the voltage to the LEDs.
www.ledtronics.com
has lots of good info about dealing with these things.
http://www.ledtronics.com/products/P...x?WP=C362K1170
Where it shows "inline wiring schematic", that is actually a parallel circuit as the resistor is across the bulb. These are 50w resistors, so plan on lots of heat! So much for the hype about how little power the LED lights draw!

Can I have my soup now?

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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-18-2010, 11:53 AM Thread Starter
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i got your soup!

i think i figured it out... i connected to the wrong running light wire the first time and then since i tried changing it to other power sources it stayed not working?!?!

i located the brake light running wire and am on it now... it seems to be fine up to about 2000RPMs - all i rev'd it to in the garage. will have to wait and see what it is like when riding with someone looking behind me.

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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-18-2010, 12:00 PM
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And if CC had been on the ball, you could have had all this aggravation last week!

Ron in Cincinnati

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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-18-2010, 07:04 PM Thread Starter
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NEW PROBLEM...

installed the AMBER LED lights in the front when they came in... had to run out and get the DIODE KIT?!?!

before kit install, all turn signal lights acted like 4-way flashers??! Kuryakyn said this was normal because the VN900 has a single indicator... so the kit was SUPPOSED to fix that problem... well it didn't?!?!

now with kit installed, the light that is supposed to act as the turn signal when activated works great... like it should. but now when it blinks OFF, the other light blinks on/off fast (once) ... so when one is on the other is off and vise versa but the one activated by the turn signal switch blinks normal while the other blinks fast?!?!

so no more flashing all together, but now there is the freaky flashing from the light that is supposed to stay solid????

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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-18-2010, 07:05 PM Thread Starter
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here is the wiring...

REAR:
- connected RUN power to tail light RUN power
- connected other wires as instructed to each light and the load equalizer

FRONT:
since 3 wire, RUN power already there... connected rest up as instructed to the load equalizer

DIODE KIT:
spliced wires in at speedo
... RED wires from kit went to GRAY & GREEN wires to lighting system
... BLUE wire from kit went to indicator (either wire)
... other wire from indicator went to ground (bolt on the frame)

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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-18-2010, 07:14 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pacomutt View Post
http://www.ledtronics.com/products/P...x?WP=C362K1170
Where it shows "inline wiring schematic", that is actually a parallel circuit as the resistor is across the bulb. These are 50w resistors, so plan on lots of heat! So much for the hype about how little power the LED lights draw!
i see they suggest using it if you get the fast flashing... the bullet lights come with a load equalizer, which i assume is the same concept of the load resistors.

so they are installed... and when i corrected the wiring for the rear lights (prior to installing front LEDs) it worked perfectly.

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