New battery, still no spark. Starts on battery charger - Page 4 - Kawasaki Vulcan Forum : Vulcan Forums
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post #31 of 100 (permalink) Old 08-13-2019, 08:14 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sfair View Post
The reason I suggested the resistor is there is a possibility that the anti-theft incorporates an electronic latch that, once set, will remain until key off.
If the circuit is boarder line with the charger pushing it over into latch condition but the battery, alone, does not, then the resistor change may show that up.
Well I have had the exact same thought so I do appreciate it. I'm going to try it before picking up an ECU.

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post #32 of 100 (permalink) Old 08-14-2019, 08:00 PM Thread Starter
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I soldered in a 75 ohm resistor, it only brought the voltage up to 6.5 and didn't start the bike. I didn't have many other choices for resistors, so I wired three 20 ohm resistors together for 60 ohms total, brought the ECU voltage up to 7.5 or so, no change.

I picked up a can of electrical contact cleaner, sprayed out the connections on the ECU and looked for any obvious damage on the pins and connectors but none obvious.

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post #33 of 100 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019, 07:28 PM Thread Starter
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I keep thinking that maybe there is a wire or connection that has corrosion or resistance in it that is causing this issue, but it doesn't explain why it would start on the booster and then start again and again on just the battery after the initial start until the key is cycled. There must be some circuitry in the ECU or something.....I haven't found anything else in the wiring diagram that it could be.

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post #34 of 100 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019, 10:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tntmo View Post
I soldered in a 75 ohm resistor, it only brought the voltage up to 6.5 and didn't start the bike. I didn't have many other choices for resistors, so I wired three 20 ohm resistors together for 60 ohms total, brought the ECU voltage up to 7.5 or so, no change.

I picked up a can of electrical contact cleaner, sprayed out the connections on the ECU and looked for any obvious damage on the pins and connectors but none obvious.
You said earlier that the voltage to the ECU was 8.0 V with the booster. One or two of those 20 ohm resistors should get you there. If you can at least crank it with the lower resistance allowing 8 plus volts to the ECU, it would seem to point very strongly at it being the anti-theft circuit in the ECU.
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post #35 of 100 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019, 10:41 PM Thread Starter
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I guess I will try to remove one of the resistors tomorrow, down to 40 ohms. It won't cost anything to try at least.

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post #36 of 100 (permalink) Old 08-16-2019, 02:44 PM Thread Starter
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Went down to 40 ohms, got 8.4 VDC to the ECU and no start.

I'm wondering if there's something else I'm missing? I see wiring harnesses on Ebay are cheap enough. I ordered a tip over switch for $5 as well, just in case that's having some sort of effect on this thing.

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post #37 of 100 (permalink) Old 08-19-2019, 01:36 PM Thread Starter
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I'm still not quite ready to order an ECU. I have been doing a lot of resistance checks, etc.

The grounds on the ECU are supposed to read continuity ( 0 ohms) on pins 10, 20, 32 and 42 to the battery ground terminal with the key on or off. They are reading low ohms, 0.5 or so with the key off but all of them are reading about 82 ohms with the key on. That doesn't change with the booster on, but the bike starts.

I was reading the resistance at the orange ground joint connector, thinking about changing that out. With the key off, they are all under 1 ohm. Turning the key on the resistance jumps to about 200 as the pump cycles, then drops to 82.

I checked the resistance from the main ground wire from the frame to the battery, zero resistance.

All this said, adding the booster changes the resistance with the key off down to zero, but with the key on/booster on the numbers are higher and the bike starts. Then shutting off the booster, shutting off the bike with the kill switch and the resistance numbers are the same as before, the bike starts off the battery. Until the key is cycled off and on again.

Mind blown!

I have a couple YouTube videos but I don't know if it's cool to post them here. Someone let me know and I will put up the links.

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Last edited by tntmo; 08-19-2019 at 01:38 PM. Reason: clarity
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post #38 of 100 (permalink) Old 08-19-2019, 01:56 PM
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When you attach the booster, are you connecting directly to the battery + & - terminals?
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post #39 of 100 (permalink) Old 08-19-2019, 02:15 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bandit101 View Post
When you attach the booster, are you connecting directly to the battery + & - terminals?
Yes. Here's the Video showing the issue, there are links to getting the bike initially going embedded into that video.


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post #40 of 100 (permalink) Old 08-19-2019, 03:04 PM
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My ISP is so poor I cannot watch videos. Was wondering if maybe a battery connector had a bad connection where the cable crimps to it. Have you tried wiggling some of the wiring around the battery when trying to start without the booster?
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