2006 Vulcan Classic 1600 Advice Needed!! - Kawasaki Vulcan Forum : Vulcan Forums
 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-10-2018, 11:40 AM Thread Starter
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Year/Make/Model: 2006 Kawasaki Vulcan Classic
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Question 2006 Vulcan Classic 1600 Advice Needed!!

Good Afternoon All!!

It has been a while since I have posted, but I have tired of riding my Vulcan in its current setup... and getting lousy MPG!

First Off my current setup:
Caddman Air Mod - Left Right Side, Blocked the Tube between.
Cold Air Solenoids removed, tubes capped, connectors heat shrinked.
Cobra Slash Cut Dual Exhaust
Cobra Fi2000(R) set at 4.5-3-1
The Air Cleaners are the White Paper/Cotton from Spectra (Came with the Chrome Tops)
20w50 Oil for Summer

What I have done currently..
I cleaned the Throttle Body with Throttle Body Cleaner, sent a puff of Black Soot down the block... Sorry...
Set the Cobra F12000 from 4.5-3-0 to 4.5-3.1, May need to lean Pot 1 and Pot 2
Had new plugs in before the cleaning of the Throttle Body

Issues:
Bike needs time to warm up (No Cold Air Solenoids so that is understandable)
Bike at idle is real low
Bike moves better but now I am feeling more of a Vibration in the seat and floor boards
Feels like it is running rough even when just cruising along
5th still feels sluggish when shifting into and trying to power up or increase speed slightly or rapidly

What I am thinking is replacing plugs again... BUT
1: Go Iridium or stay Stock? (Finding Iridium Part Numbers for this bike near impossible?)
2: I have heard some riders using 2 different plugs 1 set for intake 1 for exhaust ( Is it worth it?)
Then maybe changing the Air Cleaner Element (Still Brand New looking)
1: Maybe im not getting enough Air?

Then adjusting the Fi2000R again? Dont have access to Dyno, and it is mounted under the seat..
1: Thinking of dropping the settings to 4-2.5-1
What are some of the common settings to try...

I have been and still going through the forum, if anyone wants to point to a Thread it would be greatly appreciated!!

Thanks
Tony!
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-10-2018, 12:17 PM
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Pull the plugs and look at them, if it is extremely rich (which seems very likely) you will be able to see it on the plugs.

Iridium plugs won't do squat for your mileage, and good luck. The proper heat range for this bike does not exist in an Iridium variant. You can get them if you go with a 7 instead of a 6 series plug but this will likely just foul out faster, especially if you're running too rich.

I have the Baron's Big Air Kit and a set of Vance and Hines pipes on mine along with a power commander. Everybody says these bikes run too lean from the factory but I am finding it runs better and gets much better economy by actually leaning it out instead of making it richer. Without the aide of a dyno I am just having to do a bunch of guess and check work so it is a slow process.

In any case I'd bet you're too rich, period. The factory intake setup is exceptionally restrictive but the bike still manages decent economy with it. I doubt airflow is your problem, just too much fuel.
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-10-2018, 12:44 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you for the information!! I have been finding an issue with crossing to Iridium... Have you seen or heard of someone running 1 heat range on intake and another on exhaust plug wise?
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-10-2018, 01:16 PM
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Not until you mentioned it.

In the NGK world the proper plug for this bike is DPR6EA-9, which has no iridium cross reference at all, or any cross reference to things like the E3. There are some standard plugs but nothing else. If you look up the official Kawasaki parts for this bike and look at spark plugs it lists the DPR7EA-9 (as an alternate) for which there are Iridium, E3, etc, cross references.

Now here's the thing, according to NGK the higher the number the "colder" the plug. So this means you could run the 7 plug without risk of pre-ignition, but there are other issues. If the plug doesn't get hot enough to reach its self cleaning temperature, it will begin to foul. Iridium plugs will only enhance this problem because of the smaller electrode, it simply has less surface area to cover before it will foul out.

I have done dyno tuning on a lot of modified cars over the years and have often found that unless the tune is absolutely perfect you will have more issues out of Platinum / Iridium. My best advice would be to stick with the regular old plugs and just change them when needed. They are cheap enough and very easy to change.
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-10-2018, 02:15 PM Thread Starter
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I am currently running the DPR6EA-9, I was thinking of trying the DPR7EA-9 as an alternative. I work for a auto parts place and find it funny that both the DRP6 and DPR7 both crossover to a Bosch XR4CS.
I want to run the cheaper plug till I am balanced out. Was thinking of a higher end only to get a cleaner spark. I have seen the E3's we do not sell them though..
Maybe I will try the DPR7 or equivalent.

I dont want to test out the 2 different range plugs as of yet, from what I am finding is that they are firing at the same time and that they are both firing only on the Combustion part of the cycle, not 1 on Combustion and 1 on Exhaust.

Thanks again!
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-14-2018, 08:05 AM
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Some excellent information here. Not just conjecture and unproved opinion (like a bike makes more power with loud pipes). I'll be picking up my 1st cruiser this coming Tuesday, a 2003 VN1600 Classic with a Baron intake and Vance & Hines Bigshots. I won't know if it has a fuel management system on it until I get to inspect it at home. I do know it is stupid loud and I'll install the V&H Super Quiet baffles before riding it home.

When life throws you a curve, lean into it!
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