Ignition short-circuit? - Kawasaki Vulcan Forum : Vulcan Forums
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-06-2018, 03:37 PM Thread Starter
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Ignition short-circuit?

Hey there,
I am in the process of de-winterizing the 2004 Mean Streak, and I had a hiccup: plugged-in the battery, checked connections, switched accessories on and heard that typical whirring sound of the gas pump, and when I pressed the ignition button, it just went "Click" and everything shut off. No lights, nothing.
I suspect a short in the ignition circuit. I checked fuses and everything seems fine (no burned fuse), I had to disconnect the battery and reconnected it, and then re-switched everything on (again with the sound of the gas pump) and again, when I press the ignition, everything just shuts off.

My next step is to re-wire the whole thing, but I am pretty sure there are some intermediary steps that I don't know of (and would allow me to enjoy riding season!). Which would be the first one?
Just so you know about the bike:
2004 Mean Streak
about 40,000 km
no mechanical mods
when I bought it there was a trailer ball, but I did not touch the electrical harness that was with it.
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-06-2018, 10:40 PM
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Garage
Ignition Switch Relo 4.2 Gallon Tank

Check the yellow/gray wire for the 100ohm resistor it have gone bad i got a replacement on ebayt for $40.00

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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-07-2018, 10:31 AM
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That resistor does not control lights, etc.

Get your battery load tested.
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-07-2018, 04:47 PM Thread Starter
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FTW2017, where is this yellow-gray wire? Close to battery or close to ignition key, or switch?

Sfair, I will check it but the battery was fresh off the charger. If that doesn't seem the issue, what would be the next step?
Thanks for your help gents,
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-07-2018, 08:11 PM
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Do not bother with yellow/grey wire. It is not your problem.

Fresh off of the charger means nothing to a bad battery.
Let us know how the test goes.
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-08-2018, 06:21 PM Thread Starter
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Ok
So I tested the battery that's sitting in the bike for 3days. It reads 3volts (I guess you're right that it's dead).

Out of curiosity, I also tested the battery that'll be going into the Suzuki M50: it read 13.9volts on the first reading, and then dropped to 12.8volts after 2 or 3 minutes.

I am wondering: should I keep the batteries on trickle charge when the bike are winterized? I have been taking the batteries inside, but not connected.
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-08-2018, 06:47 PM Thread Starter
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I just re-read the voltage on that second battery, and it seems to drop .5volt every hour.

Should I assume it's bad as well?
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-09-2018, 02:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdbx View Post
Ok
So I tested the battery that's sitting in the bike for 3days. It reads 3volts (I guess you're right that it's dead).

Out of curiosity, I also tested the battery that'll be going into the Suzuki M50: it read 13.9volts on the first reading, and then dropped to 12.8volts after 2 or 3 minutes.

I am wondering: should I keep the batteries on trickle charge when the bike are winterized? I have been taking the batteries inside, but not connected.
. Always, use a tender.
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-09-2018, 10:09 AM
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1. You need to charge battery and we can give it a quick and dirty test.
2. One thing bad about leaving a battery constantly on a tender is sometimes it can cover up a weak battery. A battery should be able to sit for at least a few weeks with no ill effects. If it is always on a tender, one starts their bike at home, no issues, but rides away somewhere where the bike has to sit for a while and then come out to a no start. I would rather find this out at home than 100 miles away from home.
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-09-2018, 03:54 PM Thread Starter
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ok, the battery is on the charge.
Can you be more specific to the test you'd want me to run?
On inspection, the battery appears good to go: no leaks, no deformation.
Initial voltage will be done (as with my second battery), and expect I will run a load test? Is there anything else (or more simple)?
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