Mean Streak Clutch Replacement - Kawasaki Vulcan Forum : Vulcan Forums
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post #1 of 28 (permalink) Old 07-11-2017, 11:36 PM Thread Starter
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Mean Streak Clutch Replacement

Hi everyone,

I have a 2007 Mean Streak with almost 25,000 miles and I'm getting slippage. I've tried to do a search, but I have more questions than when I started.

There is a kit on eBay: 302-45-20018 CLUTCH FRICTION KIT CARBON KAWASAKI VN 1600 Vulcan Mean Streak 2007 | eBay but I don't know if this is overkill from just replacing the clutch plates.

I've heard that Barnett springs can be stiff, which is fine, but they have standard and heavy duty.

Then there are the Judges washers. Mean Streak springs. Barnett springs. I'm trying to compile all of this stuff together to see what it is I need to get. If anyone can provide me with the pluses and minus that they've had to deal with, that would be great. I just want to see what the common knowledge that is out there.

Thanks for any info!

Cheers,
Robert
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post #2 of 28 (permalink) Old 07-12-2017, 02:45 AM
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First thing. Check to see where your clutch handle is set at. These hydraulic clutches have engagement right at the end for some reason. If your clutch handle is set to something other than "1" I have seen them slip because of it. 25,000 miles is not very much on these clutches so though not impossible, hard to imagine it would need new clutch plates unless it was really abused in some way. The more in line culprit would be the clutch spring. Since you already have a Mean Streak, you won't need to buy a specific mean streak spring. The judges washers are used mostly on earlier model 1500's maybe some classics, don't know for sure. But you won't need them on your scoot. Kawasaki already incorporates one of those judges washers in there design after 2004. So unless you just want to add an extra one on the other side (which would be overkill), you have no need. You can also use a Barnett Spring. Some guys report a heavy clutch pull after installing them. Others say it's easy to get used to. So if you prefer an easy clutch pull I would recommend staying with the OEM. I do also recommend that if you are going to the trouble of tearing it down. Then rebuild the clutch master cylinder and the clutch slave cylinder. Kits are readily available and reasonable at around 20 to 25 bucks. Also good time to check the clutch push rod and rubber seal too.
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post #3 of 28 (permalink) Old 07-12-2017, 08:47 AM
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Does it seem to slip when hot, but OK when cold?
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post #4 of 28 (permalink) Old 07-12-2017, 01:12 PM
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OP, I'm following this since I have a somewhat new to me Mean Streak and was wondering if a worn clutch at 25k was common. RetroBagger's post gives me some peace of mind.

What part of SD are you, I have lived in Chula Vista, Escondido and Poway many years ago.
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post #5 of 28 (permalink) Old 07-12-2017, 10:36 PM Thread Starter
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RetroBagger,

The clutch setting was at "5" when I got it. I set it to "1" as I was having some difficulty shifting and I thought I could use more clutch movement.

sfair,

The slipping is always hot, not cold. But I don't keep "testing" the slipping as I don't want to burn out the clutch plates.

More info on the clutch/shifting. When cold, I can engage 1st from neutral easily. When the engine gets hot, it takes multiple tries to get the bike into 1st gear, even when going from 2nd to 1st. I either have to keep trying with the shift lever, or just slam the lever down to engage 1st. Upshifting is a little tougher than downshifting. Downshifting is usually really easy for all gears except to get into 1st when the engine is hot.

So with the slipping that I've noticed twice and the difficulty getting the bike into 1st gear when hot, I was thinking that replacing the clutch plates and springs would be a good way to go. Hopefully I'm on the right track there. If so, I just need to know the best items to get. Barnett clutch plates and Mean Streak springs? I know the Barnett springs are stronger and take more effort on the clutch lever, but the clamping force has to be much better as well.

I'm hoping to see what others have done so I can make the changes and get the bike to good working order.

Reptilicus,

I live in the Serra Mesa area, just north of Qualcomm Stadium.

Robert
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post #6 of 28 (permalink) Old 07-12-2017, 11:02 PM
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Sounds like you have a plugged relief port in the master cylinder.
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post #7 of 28 (permalink) Old 07-13-2017, 12:14 AM Thread Starter
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I'm sorry, but I'm a newbie with this bike. Does this take rebuild of the master cylinder or just a cleaning to get the relief port cleared.

Thanks,
Robert
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post #8 of 28 (permalink) Old 07-13-2017, 12:26 AM
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1. Remove master cylinder cover.
2. Peer down to the bottom and there you will see two very small holes.
3. Run a piece of copper wire CAREFULLY through the holes to make sure they are clear.

Now, the hydraulic fluids in front and rear brake, and clutch systems, probably have never been changed, so now is a good time to do so.
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post #9 of 28 (permalink) Old 07-13-2017, 01:30 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info. I'll do that this weekend. I was wondering if maybe there was a little air in the clutch line, so I'll clean out the master and change the fluid out of the line.

Cheers,
Robert
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post #10 of 28 (permalink) Old 07-13-2017, 07:55 AM
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Air in line will not cause clutch to slip.
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