Lot of extras drawing Volts,2 batterys? - Kawasaki Vulcan Forum : Vulcan Forums
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-11-2017, 08:27 AM Thread Starter
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Lot of extras drawing Volts,2 batterys?

Ok I like loot of control and information.wtr temp,oil pres.rpm's and the old goldwing acomidated, but out with the old, in with the new ,I love my monad 1600,all stock on 05 with 5k. Now I put in tack love it.ok by Time I'm done will be oil/water temp,Bluetooth takes care of no stereo in dash,so got radar detectr,2 usb port/1 cigg ltr.and 12"hid strips that I always use,2 hid 12" strips mounted down front of forks wirs right into headlight bkt..probly be more SO do I need to consider carrying a inline batt,mounted on bike?is there a co. Makes dashboards or ?? That mount on tank. Of should I just go little as poss. And leave it alone and enjoy looking at all the beauty (and aholes) around while enjoyingui*a the ride. Might be wrong forum but.. if law knew how happy I am when riding,joy ect. I even feel guilty like I Am doing something illegal (I'm not)because I'm smiling like a nut,singing,reach up push button on helmet chances scans tunes you know phone,in my helmet w/Mike I can do it all in helmet, so if po-po. or state know that I'm/we are having THAT MUCH FUN that words can't express. I'M AFRAID THEY WILL OUTLAW IT OR RAISE COST 10X.. LET ME TELL YOU I HAVE GONE TO JAIL FOR DOING THINGS THAT ARE ONLY HALF AS FUN AND ONLY FEEL THAT GOOD FOR 15 SECONDS..IS IT JUST ME?

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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-11-2017, 09:41 AM
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I am not clear as to your question, but know that your bike has two alternators.
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-11-2017, 10:05 AM
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Ok I'm going to take a stab at what you are asking based on the title of the thread.

It sounds like you have put a ton of electrical accessories on your bike and you are having issues with them draining your battery. You are wanting to know if somehow installing a second battery, or a larger battery would help. The answer is no.

Think of your electrical system like this:
Battery is a lake
Your stators are the river that feed that lake
Your electrical accessories are the dam that controls how much water flows out of the lake

If the flow out of the lake is greater than the flow into the lake, the lake will eventually drain. It doesn't matter how big the lake is, it will still empty eventually.

If you don't run all of your accessories all the time, you might can buy yourself some buffer space with more battery capacity and squeak by, but if you run all the stuff all the time, you'll have the same problem. The only way you could help this is to increase the charging capacity of the bike, IE make a bigger river to feed the lake.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-12-2017, 11:54 AM
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The question is hard to grasp but I think I get what you are saying and I am assuming the stereo would take the most power.
and Ahemsa is right the alternator is your main thing not the battery unless you like to run your accessories without the motor running. and from my quick research on nomad altenator output (don't take it as the gospel) I believe that the alt on the nomads puts out approx 600 watt or 42A @ 14v max so add up all your accessories wattage including headlights and if it goes over about 450-500 watts then its likely too much for the system ,The reasoning behind 450-500 watts is because if you ran accessories equaling 600 watts it would likely be putting a strain on the system and who knows what could happen such as burnt wires/fuses drained batt etc.

Last edited by doh13; 04-12-2017 at 12:02 PM.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-30-2017, 01:32 AM
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Sounds Great Ahemsa, Id love to know how to make the bigger river…lol I'm kinda dealing with the same crap. but not sure if our situations are the same I really close to max on the watts end. I've went with led head lamp and fog lamps to cut back but still my system isn't functioning properly.I never have a dead battery. however i'm not charging the way it should. I tested the regulators and stators both are with in limits/specs,However when volt meter is hooked up my output is never above 14.1 @2k and above rpm.they tend to be all over the place in range sometime 13.3 sometimes only 13.8 (I have two one directly mounted to the bike and a hand held) Whats even weirder is sometimes the more gas I give it the more the drain never below 12.1 though.then when I let off the gas the input number increases. Since the stators and regulators checked good and I'm not above 500 watts output. The only thing I can think it could be,, (due to someone more technically advanced than me,,Thanks DAD! lol) Is possibly the rotor may be bad. I bought the bike used and the guy that had it before me had done the electrical work himself and had no clue what to do.So that tends to end up fixing someones self induced nightmare.When I got the bike it had a lithium battery that for some reason caused a constant drain on the battery. After hours and hours of chasing connectivity to possible open circuits (my Dad) found a constant drain in the speedometer cluster. since the clock runs constant thats normal but the range was too high. it had a drain pulling a .7 so not much over but enough drain to kill the battery it should be between .2 to .5 max. So I took the chance and bought another speedometer off ebay. After installing it and having the same results, and weighing out the odds that both speedometer could be bad,I decided to keep looking into it deeper. All the way too the ECU/CDI what ever you choose to call it.I couldn't find any shorts. After days of refusing my dads advice to eliminate the expensive battery that the guy whom i purchased the bike off of paid ($165.) for which was under warrantee for 3 years from advanced auto . Note : (my buddy at advanced auto gave me a new battery with a new warrantee in my name and returned the one the guy bought as defective. However the battery was tested there at Advance auto by him and he stated it passed all checks. He was just returning it so I'd have a new battery and a new warrantee in my name. plus It was thought that giving me a new battery would help me eliminate the possibility of it being a bad cell, even though it passed all the tests) All my tests were performed on the new lithium battery which my buddy gave me. Anyway getting back to where i decided to take my dads advice lol I ditched the lithium and went to stock battery and BOOM like that problem solved! (thanks again Dad) I still don't understand how or why it did that I was under the impression 12volts was 12 volts and still don't understand why it mattered but it did… Hopefully you can kill 2 birds with one stone and help Downinthefrontrow and myself with some fountain of knowledge in which we can increase our river!!!

Last edited by [email protected]; 04-30-2017 at 01:38 AM.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-30-2017, 07:56 AM
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Congratulations, you have a gremlin. There are a couple of things that it can be, but I can tell you what it is not. The rotor is not the problem, it is literally a hunk of metal, it cannot go bad short of breaking in half.

Off the top of my head I can think of two possible causes for your issue. First is that you have an intermittent short somewhere that is bleeding off your power. At idle and during static tests everything is fine, but when it is running and starts vibrating, something is moving enough to short against something and bleed off your power. That's possible, but I don't really think it is likely. More than likely you have a "weak" connection somewhere.

Go back to the analogy of water, voltage is much like water pressure, which is dependent on depth and depth alone. Picture a swimming pool, the water pressure at the bottom of the swimming pool will be the same provided the pool is kept at a constant depth. Now if you drill a hole in the bottom of the pool, only a certain amount of water can flow through a given sized hole. Increasing pressure will increase the flow rate, but you can't do that, the pressure is constant. The only way to increase the flow rate is to increase the size of the hole. Electricity works in much the same way. Imagine you have a voltage source, for simplicity we'll make it a battery. Run a set of wires, say 100' away from the battery and connect them to nothing but a volt meter. If the wires are very small in diameter, but there is no load, you will very likely read full battery voltage. This is because the "pressure" is there, but since no current is trying to flow through the wire, there is no load. Replace the small wires with the same length of welding cable and you will likely see the same voltage. This is because the "pressure" has not changed.

Now, connect a real load to the cables and monitor the voltage. Resistance in a wire is dependent on temperature, so you get a very nasty cycle very quickly. Remember V = I/R. This means the voltage drop across the length of wire will depend on its resistance. At zero current draw, there is no heat in the wire, so very little resistance, and very little voltage drop. As the wire heats up under load, however, the resistance increases. This means more voltage is dissipated across the length of the wire and less voltage is available for the device connected to it. As it heats up the resistance increases even more and the voltage drop increases. In the worst possible case the wire can actually melt, or you have insufficient voltage to operate whatever is at the other end.

Perform the same experiment with the welding cable. Because this cable is capable of carrying the load, it does not heat up significantly. Because it does not heat up, the voltage drop does not increase, and because of that, the power is actually available for whatever device you are trying to use.

So, what does this mean for you? Obviously Kawasaki would have designed the bike with the proper size wire for all of the FACTORY accessories. So you need to look at how any aftermarket accessories are wired. Is something perhaps overloading a circuit? Now you're thinking but it's fine at idle and gets worse when I rev it up, shouldn't I be getting more voltage when I rev it? Sure, but remember your ignition system requires more power at higher RPM's. It is possible that you have a connection somewhere that is perfectly capable of handling the load at idle, but when you rev it up and the load increases, you are encountering the issue above.

I would recommend disconnecting absolutely anything aftermarket and checking to see if the problem persists. If so, you need to start checking all of your wiring connections. Although you could have a problem along the length of a wire, the most common issues are at connection points. You very likely have a connection that is not making great contact somewhere. This could be from corrosion, a frayed or cracked wire right as it enters the plug, or even one half of the metal connector inside the plug is loose and not making good contact. Thus you are seeing the "pressure" but it cannot handle the "flow."

I do not envy you the task, electrical gremlins can be the most infuriating things in the world to track down. What is important is to eliminate as many unknowns as possible and use a very calm, measured, methodical approach to run it down. I had a charging issue on a Suzuki Intruder that ended up being a loose connection in a wiring harness plug. It started out loose, then it started arcing, which lead to carbon tracking and burning, and it quickly deteriorated to the point where it made little contact at all. When I found it it was rather obvious because the arcing had actually burned the connector.

Of course if you disconnect everything aftermarket and the problem goes away, then you will need to figure out a different place to connect your accessories so that they are not overloading that circuit. These bikes have a pretty healthy charging system and should be able to handle a fair bit of extra load IF wired properly. Your best bet is to use the provided accessory circuit, or go straight to the battery for any aftermarket accessories and provide your own fusing. This will mean that you are in parallel with the OE wiring, and thus not be putting any extra strain on it.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-30-2017, 10:16 AM
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Rob, start a new thread stating the problem you are having in as few words as possible.

A battery cannot be a source of current drain.
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