Sputter/no power when warm - Kawasaki Vulcan Forum : Vulcan Forums
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post #1 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-24-2016, 11:47 PM Thread Starter
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Sputter/no power when warm

So this sounds like a somewhat familiar issue, though mine is an extreme case. I purchased this 2006 vulcan nomad 1600 with 26,000 mi, fully stock. It ran fine when it was cooler out, though no rides further than 40-50 mi. Once the weather heated up I went on a nice slow 10 mi cruise, running about 20 mph through some parks, fan turned on. Went onto a 2 lane rd and got up to 60mph and cruised approx 5 minutes in 4th gear. When I twisted back on the throttle to accelerate to 70 I thought the bike ran out of gas, it had nothing but a sputter, but didn't die. It did this any time I got the rpms up and had to limp back home doing 55 in 5th gear, couldn't t crank it past that. Did the resistor mod, same issues. Checked and cleaned throttle body, same issues. (They were clean FYI) removed resistor mod and installed a cobra powrpro, same issues. Removed powrpro and now I have an FI light on constantly, it had never illuminated before, but bike still runs identical. If I hop on the bike, it rips just fine until it really warms in traffic or just sitting. Before going to the dealer (they can't get me in for 2 weeks) I thought I'd ask ya'll. I am still getting power at the temperature control sensor plug, and I made sure vent hoses were good, even put my mouth on them and blew to make sure they were free and clear. I'm at a loss boys and girls.

Last edited by Bmholzhauer; 05-24-2016 at 11:51 PM.
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post #2 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-24-2016, 11:49 PM Thread Starter
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Also the cobra was the 92-1963A, the auto-tune model.
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post #3 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-25-2016, 09:07 AM
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Fuel pump? Sounds like it's starved for fuel. I bought my '06 Nomad a few months ago. Owner said he had similar problem that stranded him. He had to have fuel pump replaced.

I continue not to get it...
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post #4 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-25-2016, 12:01 PM
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You will have to retrieve FI error code before doing anything.
Also, one persons experience may not be yours.
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post #5 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-25-2016, 12:40 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sfair View Post
You will have to retrieve FI error code before doing anything.
Also, one persons experience may not be yours.
Raining today, will swing by auto zone tomorrow after work and post what codes come up
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post #6 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-25-2016, 01:28 PM
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This is not something Autozone can do.

If you want, we can post the procedure.
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post #7 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-25-2016, 04:22 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sfair View Post
This is not something Autozone can do.

If you want, we can post the procedure.
Please do post, I had gadgets page up, unfortunately I don't see a box with 3 plugs. Just a junction box with two plugs under the right side cover and a huge box with one big plug to the left of the battery under the seat.
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post #8 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-25-2016, 05:28 PM
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Gadgets procedure is for both 1500's and 1600's
1500's have three ECU plugs, 1600's have only one.
Yours should have a loose yellow wire that you ground. Find the yellow on the ECU connector and follow it back to an open end.
When retrieving codes, be sure and follow exceptions for 1600 as noted.

Be sure and ask any questions.
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post #9 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-25-2016, 07:43 PM Thread Starter
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Error code 1-3 or 13. If I'm looking at the codes right that's an air inlet temp sensor.
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post #10 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-25-2016, 08:03 PM
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Looks like when you added/removed/both, the resistor mod, you have a wire open or short.
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