Greg's 06 VN1600 Mean Streak Winter Project - Kawasaki Vulcan Forum : Vulcan Forums
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post #1 of 126 (permalink) Old 01-06-2016, 07:54 PM Thread Starter
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Greg's 06 VN1600 Mean Streak Winter Project

Hi all,

I'll be using this tread to track and describe the progress on my bike project as well as to reach out for help/ideas etc.

For some background please see my introduction found in the new members introduction section under the thread title

Greg's 2006 VN1600 MS Winter Project.

Cheers.

Greg
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Greg
Halifax Nova Scotia Canada
Current Ride: 2006 Vulcan 1600 Mean Streak
(Work in progress)
Past Rides: HMCS Assiniboine DDH 234
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post #2 of 126 (permalink) Old 01-06-2016, 09:05 PM Thread Starter
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This is a quick list of what I've done since I got bike into my garage:

- general front to rear visible damage/issues inspection.

- crankcase oil appears clean looking, level ok. No leaks evident. I'll change oil and filter later

- checked and reseated all fuses... Found 10A headlight fuse is blown ( headlight is missing and I note some exposed wires where headlight connector is missing)

- removed the right hand foot peg and rear brake lever frame plate it is attached to ... The metal tube/peg holder which is bent back and upwards .... will need to be straightened... The rear brake switch and related linkage came apart pretty easily and is hanging loosely until the foot peg holder is straightened and the plate put back in place

- removed seat and the old battery which is bad/dead.

- removed gas tank, emptied it, swished some fresh gas around in tank and then dumped and disposed of all old gas. Purchased some fresh, high octane gas in 4litre Jerry can.

- rad fan was jammed/stuck ... I removed rad fan assembly to clear / remove a lot of dried/caked mud/dirt from the fan and rad area. This mud/dirt was Jammed in pretty good as result of the bike ending up in a muddy ditch at the sudden end of the last drive taken by the previous owner. Reseated the coolant temp sensor/switch and rad fan switch wiring found at bottom of the rad. Reinstalled fan assembly with the fan now freely/easily turning. No damage/coolant leaks evident from rad. Coolant expansion tank level appears normal/ ok. Removed rad cap.. Coolant at top level ... ok

- clutch and brake fluid reservoirs covers removed and fluid levels visually checked and all appear ok.

- missing the ignition switch/key, which was apparently removed and deemed damaged beyond repair in the wake of the muddy ditch incident. As I want to try to see if the bike will run, I found and used a 3-pole, double throw switch as a jury-rigged ignition switch... This allowed me to duplicate the required RUN/ON electrical connections required of the ignition switch as shown in the wiring diagram. I'll take a picture of my switch and will provide a wiring diagram of how I wired it up in case others are interested. Also if anyone sees an error in my wiring let me know. This is just temporary until I get a replacement ignition.

..... More to follow...

Greg

Greg
Halifax Nova Scotia Canada
Current Ride: 2006 Vulcan 1600 Mean Streak
(Work in progress)
Past Rides: HMCS Assiniboine DDH 234
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post #3 of 126 (permalink) Old 01-07-2016, 04:22 PM Thread Starter
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Attached are a couple of pictures ... one shows the ignition switch portion of the wiring diagram for a VN1600 and the other shows the wiring diagram for a 3 pole, single throw switch that should mimic the electrical connections of the ignition switch in the ON
position.
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Greg
Halifax Nova Scotia Canada
Current Ride: 2006 Vulcan 1600 Mean Streak
(Work in progress)
Past Rides: HMCS Assiniboine DDH 234
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post #4 of 126 (permalink) Old 01-07-2016, 04:27 PM Thread Starter
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Below pictures shows the badly bent right hand foot pedal. As well as the badly scratched and dented gas tank.
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Greg
Halifax Nova Scotia Canada
Current Ride: 2006 Vulcan 1600 Mean Streak
(Work in progress)
Past Rides: HMCS Assiniboine DDH 234
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post #5 of 126 (permalink) Old 01-07-2016, 06:11 PM Thread Starter
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The below picture shows my make-shift ignition switch... Lashed to handle bars with electrical tape... In true redneck fashion

I soldered some blade terminals at the end of the wires that come from the switch so that I can insert these into the end of the female connector that the ignition switch would normally plug into. I just didn't want to start cutting/splicing into the existing wire harness with this temporary switch...

Again this is a triple pole, single throw switch (not double throw as initially mentioned above)
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Greg
Halifax Nova Scotia Canada
Current Ride: 2006 Vulcan 1600 Mean Streak
(Work in progress)
Past Rides: HMCS Assiniboine DDH 234
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post #6 of 126 (permalink) Old 01-07-2016, 06:46 PM
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Im following... im following...
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post #7 of 126 (permalink) Old 01-07-2016, 06:54 PM Thread Starter
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After reviewing the EFI section of the service manual I've learned that the EFI Indicator LED normally found in the Speedo/tach gauges can provide a tremendous amount of info /help in diagnosing problems...

But without the gauges present I went looking at the schematic again... With the intent of adding a temporary LED indicator to the connector that the gauges would normally attach to...

Below is the section of the schematic that shows the speedometer unit connections to the wiring harness...

The EFI indicator LED that I need to duplicate is the one identified as no 4 on the schematic. The anode side of the LED is attached to the BRown color wire, while the cathode side of the LED is attached to the red/yellow( R/Y) color wire. The BR wire is hot+12V when the ignition is on. The R/Y wire goes directly to the ECU. I used a 100 ohm current limiting resistor in series with the cathode connection ... Once I made up my LED/resistor circuit wire harness I inserted the two wire ends into the speedo connector positions with the BR and R/Y wires ensuring the anode side of the LED goes to BR and the cathode side of the LED goes to R/W.
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Greg
Halifax Nova Scotia Canada
Current Ride: 2006 Vulcan 1600 Mean Streak
(Work in progress)
Past Rides: HMCS Assiniboine DDH 234
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post #8 of 126 (permalink) Old 01-07-2016, 07:06 PM Thread Starter
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Below is a picture of my red-neck EFI indicator LED attached to the connectors that are found in the speedo... You will notice that the two color wires needed are found on two separate connectors. I simply stripped about 1/4" of the insulation off of the wire ends and pushed the bare wire into the two desired connector positions so they contact the terminals in the connectors.

Also DONT try this without the resistor! The LED will quickly be destroyed when you turn on the ignition and the ECU turns on the LED.
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Greg
Halifax Nova Scotia Canada
Current Ride: 2006 Vulcan 1600 Mean Streak
(Work in progress)
Past Rides: HMCS Assiniboine DDH 234
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post #9 of 126 (permalink) Old 01-07-2016, 08:19 PM Thread Starter
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So now that I had a make shift ignition switch as well as an EFI indicator LED, I connected a fully charged battery to the positive and negative terminals via heavy jumper cables. Now the fun begins...

When I turn on the ignition switch, the EFI Led comes on, as well as tail lights, and neutral indicator light ... However the fuel pump is not priming/turning on... The EFI led turns off after a few seconds. My understanding from what I've read is that this behaviour is normal.

I can turn the engine over with the starter switch , however I've also confirmed there is no spark present at the plugs.

I grounded the yellow diagnostics connection found in the battery area under seat, with the expectation that the EFI indicator would start blinking out a diagnostic code... Unfortunately
No diagnostic code was output.

I started going thru the schematic and checking various components ... What I found / have determined is that the ECU is not turning on or is not able to turn on the DFI main relay ... See below section of main schematic/connections at this component. I have removed and tested/confirmed that this relay appears to be functional/working. (While removed I Used battery and a couple of small jumper leads to verify that the relay coil actuated the relay switch contacts.)

With the DFI main relay in circuit, I measure around 1V at the ECU side of the relay coil and +12V at the fuse side of the relay coil. For the relay to work I'd expect to see closer to zero volts on the ECU side of the relay... The ECU does not appear to be able to pull down to zero volts...

I'm starting to suspect /think that the ECU might be bad... However I have started to check the power and ground connections on the bike main harness.

I have read other posts that discuss electrical issues, and part of the diagnostic / resolution is to inspect a ground termination connector where all of the grounds are brought together.

Question to forum members: Does this same ground termination connector exist in the 2006 model year on the VN1600 MS?
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Greg
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Current Ride: 2006 Vulcan 1600 Mean Streak
(Work in progress)
Past Rides: HMCS Assiniboine DDH 234
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post #10 of 126 (permalink) Old 01-08-2016, 03:16 PM
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Hi, I believe some Kawasaki cruisers have a resistor in the ignition switch which acts as a simple form of immobiliser to stop people from stealing the bike by simply cutting and twisting the ignition wires together. Not sure if this is relevant to your bike but it might explain the problems your are having. I don't know any more detail than this but would guess that the resistor lowers the voltage to one or both of the ignition wires from the switch and the ecu shuts down if full 12volts is detected. There are a lot of posts regarding electrics on here from Sfair so maybe PM him and he could shed some light on this.

Hope this helps

Radar

  • 2008 VN900 Classic
  • Luminous Polaris Blue (this is what Kawasaki call the colour)
  • Mutazu MU hard bags
  • Memphis Shades 21" Fats (black gradient)
  • Fehling sissy bar (and rack)
  • Kawasaki OEM crash bars
  • Mustang Day tripper seat and homemade tank bib (to hide the rub mark)
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