Rigid strut/shock - Kawasaki Vulcan Forum : Vulcan Forums
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 10:30 AM Thread Starter
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Rigid strut/shock

Has anyone heard of a rigid strut for the v2k?
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 12:59 PM
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Rigid, as in like no spring/shock, i.e. hardtail?

Or, Rigid as in brand?

I've heard of neither. But, FWIW, put on mine a Progressive shock that has the remote adjustable preload feature.
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 03:06 PM Thread Starter
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Im a big boy, 300+ lbs 54 in chest and my son rides on the back.... he is about my size. I scrape the tailpipes around corners when he is with me. So I want to go hardtail.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 08:05 PM
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There are threads that talk of ways to do pre-load plus with a spacer, if you go hardtail your column will let you know in a hurry. That's a good and sure way to mess up your inner frame.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 08:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kikwaam View Post
Im a big boy, 300+ lbs 54 in chest and my son rides on the back.... he is about my size. I scrape the tailpipes around corners when he is with me. So I want to go hardtail.
Replace the pipes instead. Yeah, no doubt will cost a chunk more than a steel rod or some sort of spacers, but hardtail...egads man.

I had the same thing happen driving two-up with me and the SO when I'd hit the curves.

V&H Powershots have not scraped, ever, and I still have a bike I can stand to ride and walk normal after more than around the block a few times. 😉

I'm a big guy myself ~250, and my SO isn't exactly petite but not quite that big. I'd be even more concerned about frame or other things with essentially no cushion other than the rear tire.

Last edited by whoaru99; 04-18-2019 at 09:21 PM.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-19-2019, 02:09 PM
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Also, if your son is that big, pro'bly is the time for him to get his own bike, Weight capacity on our big bikes should be around 450-500 lb (I think, I've seen the precise data somewhere when I was prep'ing for the trailer but could not find it just now). SO the first sign you might be close to weigh capacity is if you start bottoming out on the bumps from the roads, the smaller the bump you bottom out in = the closer you are to your limit. 2nd sign is scraping pipes and/or floorboards in mild(er) curves.

Preload just lets you adjust to a certain point but scraping is just a symptom, you can be stressing the frame/ tires/ brakes/ pegs/ kickstand/ etc and it all goes back to general safety, it can be dealt with being extra careful but when it starts messing with the enjoyment factor it is time to re-think.

I am also on the heavy side, trying mi hardest to stay below 250 after I was "scraping" the 300's for a while but I am lucky my wife is on the petite side, even so I make sure we do not go above the 400 lb (including the stuff on the hard-bags, tools and such) if were going for long rides or the 450 for day or weekend rides, hence the trailer.

To be able to travel 2 up the trailer was the only option I see viable weight wise, so far it has turned out a good choise.


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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-20-2019, 10:13 AM
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Ditto on the big part, and my wifey isn't a ballerina lol. I posted pics a long time ago about adding a spacer to increase the preload to carry about 700lbs. The hardest part is "caging" the spring to safely remove the snap ring in the original top spacer. I used several large mechanical hose clamps to gradually pull the spring tight and left it caged while I took the original spacer down to the machine shop and had them spin me up a new one that was about an inch deeper. Also, I put a darkside tire on that was a 65 series which lifted the bike another inch.
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