If you could change how Kaw built the 2000 - Kawasaki Vulcan Forum : Vulcan Forums
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-16-2017, 03:54 PM Thread Starter
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If you could change how Kaw built the 2000

If you could have been the one that designed the 2000 what if any major changes would you have made differently than how the 2000 is right now.
Im sure there are more but the two biggest changes I would have done would be.

Hydraulic clutch
Shaft drive
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-16-2017, 06:15 PM
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Kept it in production

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-16-2017, 07:50 PM
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I like the belt drive. Though I understand why some would want a shaft drive.

My beef is the ground clearance is heinously poor for me. I lean bikes over as far as I can on turns and on this bike I barely get it over and the boards scrape badly. So I am going to fabricate brackets to raise them up.

Other thing would probably be to offer hard bags and a legitimate rack for mounting a rear trunk.


Add cruise control. And have an on board audio system option for CB and music and intercom.

Lastly, I would ask them to use more aluminum if possible to lighten the bike, and put a better rear shock on it.

I am getting a Penske shock built for it and I am sending my forks to Lindemann Engineering in Redlands, CA to have them revalved and rebuilt to my specifications and body weight. I use primarily the front brake and I want the nose dive to be gone.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-16-2017, 08:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Water Rat View Post
If you could have been the one that designed the 2000 what if any major changes would you have made differently than how the 2000 is right now.
Im sure there are more but the two biggest changes I would have done would be.

Hydraulic clutch
Shaft drive
Shaft drives suck! I had one fail on a VN750. IT would have cost a grand to replace. It's only a couple hundred bucks to replace a belt. Plus, the belt transfers power a heck of lot better than a drive-shaft.

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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-17-2017, 01:53 PM Thread Starter
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Shaft drives suck! I had one fail on a VN750. IT would have cost a grand to replace. It's only a couple hundred bucks to replace a belt. Plus, the belt transfers power a heck of lot better than a drive-shaft.
I had shaft drive on a 1500 Nomad a 1500 Mean Streak and a 1500 Gold Wing and I really liked it and never had a single problem. The Gold Wing had over 100K on it when I sold it to a buddy and now it has 150k and all he or I ever did was change out the gear oil ever tire change.

I will give you the the shaft will suck up some power but the 2000 has plenty and I would give up a little oomph to get rid of the belt.
Yes a belt is cheaper to replace but what if your doing both pulleys and a belt which sooner or later will happen if you keep the bike long enough. I haven't priced pulleys but I bet the cost for the pulleys and a belt would exceeded the cost to repair a differential .
My thought anyway .
Edited to add: I changed to gear oil in the Nomad and Streak at rear tire change also.
The Nomad had 60K when I sold it and the Streak had 55k.

Last edited by Water Rat; 09-17-2017 at 01:56 PM.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-17-2017, 02:02 PM
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I had shaft drive on a 1500 Nomad a 1500 Mean Streak and a 1500 Gold Wing and I really liked it and never had a single problem. The Gold Wing had over 100K on it when I sold it to a buddy and now it has 150k and all he or I ever did was change out the gear oil ever tire change.

I will give you the the shaft will suck up some power but the 2000 has plenty and I would give up a little oomph to get rid of the belt.
Yes a belt is cheaper to replace but what if your doing both pulleys and a belt which sooner or later will happen if you keep the bike long enough. I haven't priced pulleys but I bet the cost for the pulleys and a belt would exceeded the cost to repair a differential .
My thought anyway .
Edited to add: I changed to gear oil in the Nomad and Streak at rear tire change also.
The Nomad had 60K when I sold it and the Streak had 55k.
Technically, pulley's don't wear out like sprockets for chains. My 30 year Chevy truck has the same engine pulley's on it from factory. So, yeah, no need to replace them unless something catastrophic happened. Also, belt drives don't require oiling. Maybe occasional tension adjustment. Sorry, if I bought a VN2000, I would want as much power to the rear wheel as possible w/o using a chain. Plus, belts don't make the whining noise a drive shaft does.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-18-2017, 08:27 AM
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1, hydraulic clutch ( tired of replacing cables and the insain maint needed to keep one in good shape due to the massive tense pull it has on the lever)
2, better rear shock ( stock this bikes set for a 180lbs rider.....ive yet to meat a 180lbs guy that is big enough to control this thing)
3, PUT A FREAKING 6 SPEED IN IT ( 5th is a dead gear with no power and the ratio for cruising around town or mountain corners makes me wanna pull my hair out. 2nd is reved too high. 3rd chugs and is reved too low. its annoying because there isnt a great sweet spot your always shifting it seems. )

other then those i can live with the rest. the ride height is a big issue i wish we had about a inch more clearance because my frame is really taking a pounding with the way roads are here. and im looking at fabbing a skid plate of sorts to try and save it from any more damage.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-19-2017, 02:06 PM
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Everything Ramcharger said goes double for me, except ride height...

I can live with the ride height. I'd love it to be a tad lighter. I'd have liked a taller front tire (21" would be heavenly)
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-19-2017, 08:16 PM
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-22-2017, 10:44 AM
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ANY fairing that doesn't make your Visa whimper....

-1 more inch between the backbone and the back spark plug.... Or a hole thru the backbone for the socket extension....
-a little more meat in the rear hub around the bearings... for when your wife ceases to be ballerina size
-rubber mounted headlight bezel on nacelle models..

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