Clutch not completely disengaging? - Kawasaki Vulcan Forum : Vulcan Forums
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-13-2017, 09:51 PM Thread Starter
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Clutch not completely disengaging?

Hey guys, my 2K's clutch seems to not fully disengage when in 1st and I'm trying to move the bike around. With the lever all the way to the bars, the bike still moves forward. It's not too strong but it wants to still go. When I hit the brake, it releases. I've lubed and adjusted the cable and there are no frays, and the oil is new and full,with Rotella T6. Normal? Thanks for any help.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-14-2017, 08:30 AM
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When you setoff the clutch lever, how much play is there? With the lever released, there should be about 1/16" to 3/32" of play. Just enough to know it's all the way slack. That way you get as much action out of it as possible when it's pulled.

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-14-2017, 08:37 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Bill Braske View Post
When you setoff the clutch lever, how much play is there? With the lever released, there should be about 1/16" to 3/32" of play. Just enough to know it's all the way slack. That way you get as much action out of it as possible when it's pulled.
Yep, did that.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-14-2017, 10:57 AM
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Sounds like your clutch plates may be "sticky" to me it can be common but not a big issue. Also if you just started using Rotella t6 from dyno oil give it a couple oil changes to soak into the plates and it might stop.

If it only does it on a cold start I wouldn't worry so much , starting the bike with clutch in and reving it a few times in neutral before changing gears to take off should free the sticky plates on a cold start and stop/reduce the "thump" when you put it in first . If the clutch is still sticky when the bike is at operating temps and been ridden a few miles then I would be more concerned.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-15-2017, 12:07 PM
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The clutch on my 04 does the same thing. Sitting at a stoplight in gear and clutch pulled, the engine "lopes" as the clutch drags a bit. Kick it into neutral and the lope goes away. I tried to adjust the drag out but it is futile. Neutral is easy to find on the rare occasions one isn't moving forward on the beast

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 06:48 PM
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On the same topic, do you need to lubricate the clutch cable where it attaches to the lever, if so what type of lubricant to use?
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 08:38 AM
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I've had the same issue since '05...I've tried adjusting the issue, as have 2 different shops and the dealer. I said to hell with it long ago, it's just the way it is for me.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-23-2017, 10:52 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys, it's getting a little better. The previous owner used dyno oil and I switched to T6 so that may be helping.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-08-2017, 03:08 PM
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ok guys just got my bike (2009 vn2000 11,500k) back from the shop today. i have had the same problem since i can remember. Found out that the drive belt was way to tight. it cause all kinds of problems.
#1 it made pushing the bike harder
#2 it was putting stress on the front drive pulley, so much that it started to wear the splines out
#3 it was torquing the shaft so much that the clutch was not disengaging all the way.

so if you are still having issues you might check the drive belt for being to tight. it cost me luckily only $400. only had to replace the front pulley. the shaft still had enough meat to keep using it or it would have been $3k to fix.

just letting you all know what happened to my bike
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-12-2017, 01:45 PM
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Hi guys my 2004 does the same thing Its probably because the clutch basket and the drum have grooves preventing the clutch plates from sliding that is the price we pay for having huge amoutnts of torque, i'll just keep riding it till it dies


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