Power commander install - Kawasaki Vulcan Forum : Vulcan Forums
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-22-2018, 07:44 PM Thread Starter
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Power commander install

Tried to search but I didn't see a thread on it for the S. So anyone installed a Power Commander V themselves?

I just got mine in the mail and I'm looking to install it this week since it's going to be raining all week.

Do I need to to completely remove the tank or can I just lift it?

Any other tips appreciated
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-22-2018, 07:57 PM
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I don't think too many have the Powercommander on the S. I went with the Booster Plug which was a simple plug and play.
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-22-2018, 08:24 PM Thread Starter
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I don't think too many have the Powercommander on the S. I went with the Booster Plug which was a simple plug and play.
I went back and forth between the PC and the BP. I couldn't tell I'd the bike would learn to compensate for the BP over time like some people claim.

I don't know. BP seems too good to be true but the PC was expensive even with the sale and $15 RevZilla cash
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-22-2018, 09:21 PM
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@cfhgarza
I did the Power Commander V on mine. You'll absolutely need to take the tank off, and basically every piece of plastic trim forwards of the seat. Luckily you don't have to drain the tank first (unless you just want to lose the weight). You may leak a little upon disconnection of the fuel line but it stops after just a second, just have a rag underneath the line before you make the disconnect. Also, don't bother trying to disconnect the 2 smaller hoses coming out of the left side running down to the kickstand, just bring those up out of the frame with the tank, its easier this way. You'll also have to pull the air box (this is why the tank has to come off) as you need access to the injectors and coils plug-ins. Removing the airbox is only made challenging by the wire loom, I ended up breaking the upper most tab off the airbox to be able to get the wire loom up and over.

While you're in there and have everything apart its as good a time as any to check / replace spark plugs (if you're anywhere near the mileage) and replace the air filter. The only extra step to check the spark plugs from this point is to pull the coils after you disconnect the factory plug-in and before you install the PCV plug-in, that and unscrewing the spark plug. My plugs looked fine at 12,000 miles (when I installed the PCV) but I had already bought new ones so in they went.

A service manual goes a long way to making any work so much easier. If you have anymore questions, let me know.
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-22-2018, 10:14 PM
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But GREAT write up on the PCV. I picked up 10 Hp and 6 ft/lb torque with a cheap pipe (DanMoto) and the Booster plug. I live at sea level and the scooter runs great in the mountains. I ran into the same issue with the wire looms and the air box when I changed to a different air filter. Yeah I ended up breaking that tab also 😂. Did you change the exhaust? Have you had a chance to Dyno your bike yet?
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-22-2018, 11:13 PM Thread Starter
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@KeepRidin Thanks for the input. I only have 4000 miles so my spark plugs and filter should be alright.
@bearslayer I have the long Delkevic slash cut. I'm hoping to pick up a little power and stop it from running so lean
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-23-2018, 06:22 AM
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I have the long Delkevic Bullnose. I only ran it for a couple days before adding the PCV but while I couldn't noticed a power difference with just exhaust, the exhaust PCV combo brought some extra pep to her step. I installed the 2 Bros map to the PCV upon install as the only map options at the time (and probably still today) were a modified map for stock exhaust and the 2 Bros exhaust map. If memory serves me right the 2 Bros map adds just a pinch of timing and takes some decent swings at the air/fuel ratio throughout the rpm/throttle position range. (Both up and down, depending on throttle location)

@bearslayer Good to know I'm not the only one who is breaking stuff, lol. I haven't dyno'd the bike yet, I'm planning on adding the Auto-tune to the PCV... probably this winter. I live at about 600' from sea level and she runs great both here, and up on the BRP. The Auto-tune would mainly just be for my own piece of mind, as I'll be keeping this one for quite a while.
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-23-2018, 07:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cfhgarza View Post
I went back and forth between the PC and the BP. I couldn't tell I'd the bike would learn to compensate for the BP over time like some people claim.

I don't know. BP seems too good to be true but the PC was expensive even with the sale and $15 RevZilla cash
Some of the BMW bikers have reported that their ECU have compensated for the presence of the Booster Plug over time. Not sure how they can prove that without some extensive testing equipment. But anything is possible. I doubt this will ever happen with the Vulcan S since it has a much cheaper type of ECU than the BMW has and isn't nearly as smart
Same with the entire engine. Booster Plug Vs Power Commander. I seriously doubt there will be much if any performance difference. To me one or two extra ponies aren't worth several hundred dollars especially on the Vulcan S. You probably gain more power by going on a diet and loosing 10 lbs Then there is the much more involved installation and chances of messing something up or breaking something in the process. But once you installed it it's good to go. No wait, you have to program it first, install some type of map that may or may not work well with your current set up. But wait, there is a fix for that. The Autotune module that will make everything work like it should. And it's only an additional $300 to $479 Dollars depending on single or dual channel unit. So after spending $700-800 Dollars and going through the frustration of installing the unit and then crossing your finger in finding the proper program for it and then adding the Autotune module for your peace of mind just to be sure your getting every drop of performance from that tiny 650 Twin motor. No thank you.
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-23-2018, 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by IndyTom View Post
...But wait, there is a fix for that. The Autotune module that will make everything work like it should. And it's only an additional $300 to $479 Dollars depending on single or dual channel unit. So after spending $700-800 Dollars and going through the frustration of installing the unit and then crossing your finger in finding the proper program for it and then adding the Autotune module for your peace of mind just to be sure your getting every drop of performance from that tiny 650 Twin motor. No thank you.
Not everyone realises you also need to weld in a new O2 sensor bung because it's bigger than the stock sensor.
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-23-2018, 09:32 AM
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Thumbs up

The BP is without question the easier install but I like doing all my own work so taking it apart enough to piggyback the required plugs for the PCV was good experience for later maintenance work. I'll be the first to admit the extra cost of the Auto-tune is... unappealing. That combined with getting the exhaust cerakoted (after the new O2 sensor bung of course) is "one day" money, I don't have it and might never, but it'd be nice. The map choice for the PCV seems pretty obvious, either stock or aftermarket (much more free flowing) exhaust. It would be interesting to compare a BP Vulcan S to a PCV Vulcan S. I know the difference between mine and a stock S (I ride with one at least once a month) is pretty apparent.

End of the day no matter which way you go you're better off than the lean stock conditions run from the factory, that a win in my book.

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