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Better Rear Shock.

57K views 77 replies 38 participants last post by  wke002 
#1 ·
Are there any better ones out there at a reasonable cost, I read someplace about a euro shock that is a bit longer and a softer ride for old...er bad backs! :wink2:
 
#4 ·
no, the stock stock setting is very soft, and very easily bottoms out. I am around 220 lb, and I moved mine from the stock 2 to 4. I am much more happy with it now. Try just changing the preload up 1 setting to 3 and see if that helps.
 
#5 ·
Mine is on it's way out of Europe - holiday season there

Will be longer & with better damping - will give 100-120mm travel rather than the original 80mm

I can live with the extra seat height

Will also lengthen the side stand accordingly

Will put more load on the front tyre (good thing) & steepen the steering angle slightly (steers quicker)
 
#6 ·
I have no doubt that your mod will work fine if not better for the sake of comfort.
What amuses me though is that if Kawa released the bike the way you're setting up people would want to mod it to lower it down to 80mm travel for aesthetics.
In fact I saw one such owner actually lower the rear shock from stock!:surprise:

To help your mod I've seen very affordable adjustable front shock dampeners on ebay to suit 2015 650 Ninja's. These are directly compatible parts to our Vulcan S after referencing part numbers through Kawasaki. They put a 10mm preload upon install which can be increase with adjustment.

I considered it but after realising the front end bore very little load, dampening stock set up wasn't required.
 
#7 ·
I had a shock made by Firefox Racing of Keighley, Yorkshire (England) for about 375$, delivered to France. (I hope I'm allowed to mention companies?). They built one for my weight- 240lbs- with an appropriate spring and some other tweaks which I'm afraid I've forgotten. It made a huge difference.
The rebound damping is adjustable over 60 clicks (!) At present I've got it set just above half way. It's a YSS shock and you can also get one which is height adjustable, which is what I had previously on my DR800.
Two possible problems: the spring is red, I forgot to ask, lol and it has shown up the shortcomings of the front forks. I sent the original shock to them as a copy but I don't fancy posting my forks!!
Hope this helps?
 
#8 ·
Hi Capt Evil - already done the fork mods - emulators to improve damping, with no reason to increase preload - increase in oil level is sufficient

I'm setting the bike up as best suit my needs - capable of 700-800klms per day (I was doing 1,000-1,2000klms days on my ZRX & up to 900 klms on my Husky adventure bike)

The forward controls are not as conducive to greater distances, although one never knows the new rear shock & my modified seat might be enough

I did 460klms comfortably last Sunday & 520klms the previous Sunday

I'm getting more impressed with the bike's capabilities with every ride
 
#9 ·
I am very interested in your longer shock. Do you have a make/model/place to buy?

As far as longer rides, I found the same problem with the forward controls. Too much of a pressure point near my tailbone after about an hour to an hour and a half of riding, and impossible to shift your weight to a different spot due to the shape of the seat. I am dropping the bike off next Wednesday to have the pegs moved to mid controls and have a classic 1970s-style flat seat put on. I'll report back here with pictures.
 
#13 ·
So what will these mods accomplish? Are you trying to make the bike's suspension more sporty or softer? Forgive me- I do not know the technical terms but I do know I'm not very impressed by the stock suspension and am thinking about upgrading. My wife has a BMW F650GS and it's incredible. You barely feel any bumps or potholes! I know it is a very different setup but I'd like to get my S closer to that sort of traction and comfort if possible. The Kawi at times feels too soft (say if I'm getting on an on ramp and hit a rough patch of road- it bounces and feels like the back tire wants to slip out) but also, at times, too stiff ( if I hit a divot on the highway I get tossed up a bit). Fyi- I haven't adjusted the mono shock yet. I'm gonna bring it to the shop and have them set it up to me to see if that helps. It's still in the factory set position so I'm hoping that will make a difference but I'm a bit that skeptical based on reviews. Any thoughts?
 
#14 ·
I'm looking at a longer shock to increase wheel travel for 80mm to possibly 120mm - plus improved damping to pre-load, plus compression & rebound adjustment

I work with Terry Hay at Shock Treatment, we've enjoyed considerable success over the past 15 years

The OEM stock is not re-buildable & not adjustable except for pre-load

My upgraded forks certainly show the imperfections in the shock

I use my Vulcan S for longer distance touring, so comfort & handling are important given the state of Australia's minor/back roads
 
#16 · (Edited)
Ok- I will try to adjust the pre-load. That sounds simple enough! The shop suspension tayloring setup is about $100-seems a bit high considering how basic this sounds. But actually-I was concerned to do the stock adjustment because my previous bike was a Ryca C-1 cafe racer conversion and the suspension was so stiff! I am concerned that with the spring preload adjustment-the same will happen, making the ride to stiff and bumpy! I am 5'5" at 155lb and my riding style varies depending on my mood and the direction I head on our crappy California, Bay Area highways/back roads. But as I age, my rides are getting more mellow with longer cruises...until I get a twisties bug.

I guess I will try the adjustment and see how it goes. Fingers crossed- If it doesn't work, I might be looking for aftermarket suspension advice! Thanks for the feedback!
 
#17 ·
I had mentioned the same before in another post. Feeling the bottoming out, the best thing I did was adjust it up a notch and ride, what a difference it made, no more bouncing out of the seat and undulating bumps feel like i'm on a couch cushion. By all means try it and see what it does for you.
 
#18 ·
Sadly the OEM shock has only pre-load adjustment

The Spring rate is set -usually to meet certain criteria (in Australia for 185kg load) which is generally too strong for single riders

The compression & rebound damping are not adjustable

The shock is not re-buildable

Preload can only effect sag - the point at which the shock starts to work (constant rate spring) - in theory the linkage control "rising-rate" etc

I'm 100kgs in my gear & yes the shock does "bottom-out" occasionally, given that I'm about to replace the shock, I've not bothered adjusting (lazy me, as it's only a 10second job)
 
#23 ·
@xxxfb

So what's the word on that shock? Did it work out? I'm a pretty big guy at 6' and about 160-170k loaded with gear and work stuff... I'm sure I'll be bottoming out the shock. Need more travel and resistance probably...

I don't even have the bike yet, but I'd like to be as informed as possible...
 
#25 ·
@xxxfb



So what's the word on that shock? Did it work out? I'm a pretty big guy at 6' and about 160-170k loaded with gear and work stuff... I'm sure I'll be bottoming out the shock. Need more travel and resistance probably...



I don't even have the bike yet, but I'd like to be as informed as possible...


When I first got the Vulcan s I was told not to adjust the rear shock until first service so it could bed in( probably a crock). But I did as I was told I use to weigh 160 kg and it was bottoming out when I ever I hit a dip in the road near home if I did not slow down enough. At first service it was adjusted right out and now it's fine it has not bottomed out afterwards.


2016 Vulcan s
 
#24 ·
If this message is for me (sorry I'm IT incompetent), my shock did improve things but the front now feels bouncy on rough roads; mind you I'm not sure if that's down to the new shock not yet being properly fine tuned, still work in progress.
I can absolutely identify with blackpearlgirl's comments re Gs suspension compared with the vulcan. My previous bikes were all trailie/trailie style.
 
#31 ·
Hi.
Update on the suspension: Having replaced the rear shock with a modified YSS one I sent the forks of to Firefox Racing, UK (I live in France). They changed the springs re valved them and changed the oil. The turn around was pretty quick but they did say that December time was a bit quiet, surprise surprise.
I fitted them in the new year but last week was the first time I could take the bike out for a run; the difference is considerable, the forks much more "pliant" (?). With the front now working I think I'll try softening the rear slightly, it seems to be more apparent now. The only other thing I did notice and I don't know whether it was my memory/imagination but I felt that the front didn't fall into the bends in the way I remembered. I need to take it out for a much longer to double check. Whatever, it was great to get out on the bike again.
I am very happy with the work Firefox did, they gave me good advice, for example arguing against some of the more expensive modifications that are currently available on the market. The shock cost me about £270, including delivery, which also includes the cost of sending the original (they now have the info to make them to order). The forks cost me £260 including delivery both ways. That seems to be good value given the improvements it's made to the ride quality.
Cheers
Mike
 
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