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Old 01-04-2013, 08:13 PM   #1
Rhinosmash
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Unhappy Absolutely stumped,I need help. :confused:

I have a 96" 500ltd that is bogging down and not decelerating properly (slow to decel), I have searched this forum and followed all the instructions on previous posts with this issue to no avail.
I have about 19k miles on it, I run sea foam regularly, recently rebuilt the carbs,cleaned/soaked, they are spotless and all the jets are clear. I replaced the throttle cables and they are not binding, both diaphragms are new the air mix screw and rubber washer are new the float needles are new as well, float height is correct according to manual and the floats are good (tested). I have tried the air mix screws at 2 turns out all the way to 6 turns out and nothing seems to correct this issue. there isn't an air leak at the carb boots i checked already, but it still boggs down and is slow to decelerate. I can get it past the bogging if i ease back and forth on the throttle. im at my wits end here folks. I am hoping someone on here can hep cause i already gave up for the night,beer in hand haha!
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Old 01-04-2013, 09:17 PM   #2
Phil in Maine
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How long does it take to get back to normal idle at a stop? Are the carbs synced? How did you check for intake leaks?
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Old 01-04-2013, 09:26 PM   #3
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Also, whats the condition of the air filter and the housing? Are there leaks there? Are there leaks from the housing to the carbs?

What do the plugs look like?
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Old 01-04-2013, 10:04 PM   #4
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Hey, Rhino. Guess you saw my final posts on my similar thread. Mechanic had it at 3-1/4 turns out after disassembly. It still was acting up. Ended up at about 4 or so out and it runs great. Just a thought - if you have some starting fluid, might give just a very quick half-burst around some of the vacuum hoses and airbox / intake hoses. If you've got an air leak anywhere, the engine will accelerate when ingesting the fluid. Obviously, don't use it around the airbox! Might also check that your air filter is in good shape. Good luck
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Old 01-05-2013, 07:45 AM   #5
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Phil, it takes about 3-4 seconds to come back down to idle. I build a manometer based on another post to synch the carbs and im pretty confident it did the job (after adjusting them the fluid was dead steady and even) I shot a little wd-40 around the intake boots that connect the carbs to the engine (no increase in engine speed) Air filter is in really good condition only about 9mos old and the bike has been in my garage for 6 of those months getting worked on. Air filter housing seems to be in really good shape too. Pulled the plugs before i was having this issue and they looked like it was running rich, i hit them with carb cleaner and cleaned them the best i could and put them back in, I'll pull them again today and see if they still show rich.

Fbnewell, I was really hoping your post would be the answer to my issue lol. Ill grab some starter fluid today and try around the vacuum lines etc, don't worry i'm not going to spray my air filter with it haha
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Old 01-05-2013, 08:18 AM   #6
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Heck if there are any local forum members that think they can fix it/ show me how to fix it I'd be willing to toss a twenty at ya and a few beers lol
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Old 01-05-2013, 08:27 AM   #7
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I found a little rubber O-ring missing on the cover on top of the carb for the diaphragm. I must have dropped it when reinstalling the four carbs on my old 1200 Bandit. The bike behaved much like what you describe. I don't know if the Vulcan has the little O-Rings too but that might be an issue if one is missing. It would show up in a leak test though.
Just a thought!
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Old 01-05-2013, 08:33 AM   #8
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as far as i know the en500 doesn't have that o ring, the top of the carbs are essentially diaphragm,needle, needle cap, spring and then the top cover
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Old 01-05-2013, 08:38 AM   #9
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What is the condition of the intake boots and the clamps on them? Funny, Kawasaki refers to them as carb "holders" on the parts fiche. Are they still pliable, any cracking at all? They are faily cheap, 11.55 each on procaliber.com. I would consider replacing them if there is even a hint they are an issue.

Im guessing you didnt change any jets?

If you have an intake leak its going to be a very small one that spraying wd40 wont necessarily show. Otherwise your idle would hang, or even race up.

Any chance the oring in the idle mixture screw didnt seat well?

When you are saying it bogs down, is it doing it only off idle?

Its a pain in the butt issue because you are chasing something fairly small. Such is life with a 17 year old machine with an unknown history. Aren't bikes fun?
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Old 01-05-2013, 09:26 AM   #10
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the carb holders are still good and pliable no cracking at all, the clamps are in good shape aside from one. I did not change any jets. Ill try the starter fluid to test for leaks instead of wd-40. I actually just replaced the idle mix o ring as well as the needle and spring, im pretty sure it seated since i held the carbs vertical while putting it in for that reason. It will idle pretty nicely,just not as steady as it used to (100 to 200 rpm flux), its bogging down when i give it throttle it will bogg around 2k rpm and then if i get it past that it does it again at 3k. if i pull the choke all the way out the rpms go all the way up to like 6k or so no hesitation at all but with the choke in it boggs with throttle.

I gotta say as much of a pain as all this is, i freaking love learning how to fix it! i dont think i could ever sell this bike seeing as i have all this blood sweat and tears in it.
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