I didn't want to hijack the previous thread regarding the air intake mods, so I decided to to a separate thread.
It was mentioned about removing the secondary throttle body plates (butterflies) to improve performance and engine response. My question is, what else do you need to do after removing those plates? FI box, different intake, etc.? And after removing those plates, besides improved engine response, does it smooth the engine out some at higher speeds and what does that do to your gas mileage.
Final question, what is the link to performing this mod?
Thanx in advance.
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"Don't sweat the small stuff---it's all small stuff"
I didn't want to hijack the previous thread regarding the air intake mods, so I decided to to a separate thread.
It was mentioned about removing the secondary throttle body plates (butterflies) to improve performance and engine response. My question is, what else do you need to do after removing those plates? FI box, different intake, etc.? And after removing those plates, besides improved engine response, does it smooth the engine out some at higher speeds and what does that do to your gas mileage.
Final question, what is the link to performing this mod?
Thanx in advance.
I found that after removing the plates the bike would go flat for a moment when I cranked open the throttle. I figured this was due to the inrush of air and an ECU that still thinks the secondary plates are still there. I added fuel to that area (RPM & throttle position) and the problem went away. In my case removing the plates was in conjunction with adding aftermarket pipes, air kit and a PCV.
I accessed the link, and it looks like a pretty straightforward, simple job. If I don't like the result, I hope it's just as easy to reverse the procedure and put the plates back in. But I won't do any of that until next Spring, so I"ve got lots of time.
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"Don't sweat the small stuff---it's all small stuff"
I added fuel to that area (RPM & throttle position) and the problem went away. In my case removing the plates was in conjunction with adding aftermarket pipes, air kit and a PCV.
I'm not sure what you mean by this--adding fuel to that area. Could you explain?
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"Don't sweat the small stuff---it's all small stuff"
I'm not sure what you mean by this--adding fuel to that area. Could you explain?
The Power Commander lets you add or subtract fuel in individual cells laid out as a grid from zero throttle to 100% throttle, from idle up to redline. It felt like the bike was flat when I would go to 50% throttle at a relatively low to mid RPM. Adding fuel to the cells in that area of the grid took the problem away. Since then I've added the Autotune module which automatically adds or subtracts fuel based on what the O2 sensor is telling it. The problem hasn't returned.
+ 1 on the snappier throttle from this mod. My understanding is that the restrictors make the airflow less prone to big changes caused by bumps in the road, etc giving you smoother overall throttle feel. Course lots of us don't want it smoothed out we want the throttle to crack when we hit it. It's an easy mod that's easily put bak if you don't like it.
Chi
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2010 VN900 Classic-Blue
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Cobra Standard Sissy Bar with Chrome insert
Baron Crash Bars
Kuryakyn ISO Grips
Kuryakyn ISO Highway Pegs
Kuryakyn Mini Silver bullet brake lights
Scoot Works Phat Riser II's
Arlen Ness Scalloped Big Sucker
V&H Pro Pipe
V&H Fuelpak
Saddlemen Profiler seat
Barnet and Galfer Stainless control cables
Cobra Passenger floorboards and bag supports
Chilhowee Leather bags
American Biker Tool bag
Chrome Breather filter
__________________
2010 VN900 Classic-Blue
______________________
Cobra Standard Sissy Bar with Chrome insert
Baron Crash Bars
Kuryakyn ISO Grips
Kuryakyn ISO Highway Pegs
Kuryakyn Mini Silver bullet brake lights
Scoot Works Phat Riser II's
Arlen Ness Scalloped Big Sucker
V&H Pro Pipe
V&H Fuelpak
Saddlemen Profiler seat
Barnet and Galfer Stainless control cables
Cobra Passenger floorboards and bag supports
Chilhowee Leather bags
American Biker Tool bag
Chrome Breather filter