What brand of battery tender do you use ?

[CRUISERDON]

I have both the Battery tender unit not the junior and I have a Yuasa smart charger too. I used the tender for many yrs and recently switched to the Yuasa. I found that both are very good units, the Yuasa maybe better in that it is capable of charging at half amp more rate. BUT, the polarity hookup between the two is back wards. You can't just switch between the two!
I found out by investigating that "it is said" that the bike will not peak a new battery if just plopped in the bike and run ! It must be peaked first then it will be maintained by the bike if run enough. This point is very important to note !
I got 13 yrs out of my second stock battery, the first didn't even get me home when I picked up that damned bike ! HONESTLY ! If I had the opportunity to test ride the bike, I WOULD HAVE NEVER BOUGHT IT ! PERIOD ! it was in my opinion GUTLESS ! and very disappointing to say the least.
The modern "Smart Chargers" are using a pulse charge technology that will break down and hold at bay the sulphate's build up that destroys batteries. The other point is that the OEM and cheaper batteries have SOFT lead terminals that deform with use and vibration and make for sloppy connections, and light plates. Eventually the terminals will deform to the point of Uselessness.
I advise to buy deliberately and smartly and don't skimp when a battery is needed. A good battery will have heavier plates and harder terminal lead. They will have better cranking amps for when things get stubborn and last one hell of a lot longer. Also, maintenance free batteries are a good thing but if you run the older wet cells then they must be checked for fluid level often and if you are in a hot zone, more often to the extreme !

[bosco]

Originally Posted by evodog

Ah, i see. so i dont really need the "plus" since I ride everyday, i only need the "plus" if im storing up the bike more months. thanks, good info.

Correct. I would purchase "Plus" model if I am going to store over the winter.

[evodog]

Originally Posted by sfair

No need to check stator output, etc, etc, at this time. When you get your meter, this is what you do:

1. Start engine and take a voltage reading across battery, all accessories off.
2. Rev engine up to guestimated rpm that it turns at 30mph in the gear that you normally drive. (say, 2200rpm.) Take another voltage reading.
3. Holding that rpm, turn on the accessories that you normally use and take another reading.

Be sure and post back with any questions.

I will do it today after work. post back with numbers i get. thanks.

[WhiteWi]

That is funny. Only yesterday I was thinking that it has been a while since Evod asked his questions here. LOL

[evodog]

Originally Posted by WhiteWi

That is funny. Only yesterday I was thinking that it has been a while since Evod asked his questions here. LOL

yup, since yesterday i posted i wonder where whitewiiiiii go and what is he going to say, LOL, same old same old.

[evodog]

Originally Posted by sfair

No need to check stator output, etc, etc, at this time. When you get your meter, this is what you do:

1. Start engine and take a voltage reading across battery, all accessories off.
2. Rev engine up to guestimated rpm that it turns at 30mph in the gear that you normally drive. (say, 2200rpm.) Take another voltage reading.
3. Holding that rpm, turn on the accessories that you normally use and take another reading.

Be sure and post back with any questions.

Bike off, battery reads 12.92V, this is right after i got home from work with listen to the music all the way home too.

1. Start engine and take a voltage reading across battery, all accessories off.

answer: 13.5 +/- all the way up to below 14.5 slowly

2. Rev engine up to guestimated rpm that it turns at 30mph in the gear that you normally drive. (say, 2200rpm.) Take another voltage reading.

answer: high to 14.5 ~ low 13.5

3. Holding that rpm, turn on the accessories that you normally use and take another reading.

answer: between 13v to 14v

here are some extra i try out.

4. Idle with break light on and music.

answer:13.5+/-

5. idle with break light on , turn signal on and music on

answer: 13+/-

So my final conclusion is, my battery is very good and stator charges good too.
The rumble road ultra speakers only take about 0.5V+/- out of battery.
The green LED indicator from battery gauge shut off sometime when at stop light with or without the turn signal seem normal because it was at a good votage still on 12+V at lease.
one more thing, when the fan came on when i was testing the votage, it drops almost 1V+/-, our fan eats up a lot of power i think...

so for you guys to see my read out. everything seems fine ??

[sfair]

Your alternator looks good. No worries.

[feenixx]

i bought a "schumaker" from wallyworld a few years back i think it was 20 bucks it does what the others do and seems built heavier I Plug my battery on it all winter in the garage like 5 months....in the spring she starts right up.I thought my battery was iffy to this summer so I just bought another...same brand yuasa for $80 bucks up here in canada when I was in NY state the stealer wanted $138 USD.My brother uses a 10 dollar canadian tire model tickle charger.

[sfair]

All of these fancy chargers are nice, but whenever your engine is running, the battery is connected to the crudest battery charger known to man with vibration being the de-sulfation mode!!!

[zippydog]

dude you are killing me with your grammar in your posts (yea I am a little bit particular on that, not sure why) but you seem to kind of know what you are doing so.... let us know what you find out