Is it normal for the bite point on the clutch to be quite close to the end of the lever?? It makes clutch control a little difficult at low speeds. Ive never experienced it slipping, however I have to change out of first quite quickly as it 'jumps' if I use the whole rev range in first... doesnt do that in any other gear??
First of all what kind of bike do you have? Second my bike is the same way. I just recently bled the clutch and it was better for about one ride and now it is back to the same. I just deal with it.
First look at the inside of the master from the lever and check the boot to see if it is rotted out and has been letting grime into bore. If so then take it apart and clean it real good then either kit it or wet it with fresh fluid and reassemble. It may be good to do the same to the slave cyl. Then a real good bleed job to remove any and all air. This is common with the clutch and brake masters being in the wind.
make sure the holes inside of the master is clear and clean.
__________________
CRUISER
DON RUSSELL
Aspire Machining
'97 VN1500 91 Cubes Of Custom CLASSIC
original owner
Vance & Hine 2to1
engine, forks, ignition & carb mod's
WebCam cam & rockers hard weld & grind
NEW TOP END, NO LOOKS ALL GO GO
Maxx intake manifold system & super G carb 44mm
Those clutches engage close to the end of travel by nature, but like cruiserdon said, check relief hole in master cylinder. If it is plugged, engagement point will move out even farther until at some point, the clutch will start to slip.
Just purchased a '93 1500 and having some of the same issues. The fluid was nasty so I cleaned it out and replace with nice new DOT5 but still experiencing some issues. This is my first rodeo with a hydraulic clutch so I am wondering if it is something that can be addressed without replacing clutch or springs.
Mine presents in the high RPM's of 1st gear and then also if I go to WOT from any other gear it revs and then catches and takes off. I can also smell the clutch after a 30 mile ride home (two rides), bike is now parked until it is repaired.
This is driving me CRAZY, I have a trip planned for the Trail of Tears in September that I really want to take this bike instead of my other one.
Just purchased a '93 1500 and having some of the same issues. The fluid was nasty so I cleaned it out and replace with nice new DOT5 but still experiencing some issues. This is my first rodeo with a hydraulic clutch so I am wondering if it is something that can be addressed without replacing clutch or springs.
Mine presents in the high RPM's of 1st gear and then also if I go to WOT from any other gear it revs and then catches and takes off. I can also smell the clutch after a 30 mile ride home (two rides), bike is now parked until it is repaired.
This is driving me CRAZY, I have a trip planned for the Trail of Tears in September that I really want to take this bike instead of my other one.
This one sounds like a worn out clutch pack or it had been assembled wrong at some point. If it had the wrong oil in it then it may be modifiers have modified your clutch out of service. Time to open it up and check it out. There is a possibility it is a hydraulic lock at master, but most likely not.
__________________
CRUISER
DON RUSSELL
Aspire Machining
'97 VN1500 91 Cubes Of Custom CLASSIC
original owner
Vance & Hine 2to1
engine, forks, ignition & carb mod's
WebCam cam & rockers hard weld & grind
NEW TOP END, NO LOOKS ALL GO GO
Maxx intake manifold system & super G carb 44mm
Clutch Bite Point
Vulcan 1500 A8
BITCH
Linear Mode
