In case it wasn't mentioned, one should not use Synthetic oil prior to 5000 miles or it can cause ring seat issues. Synthetic is a much better anti friction oil.
In case it wasn't mentioned, one should not use Synthetic oil prior to 5000 miles or it can cause ring seat issues. Synthetic is a much better anti friction oil.
good to know that info, I'm using Valvoline 10W-40 conventional motorcycle oil now and have heard many people use it too and is easy to get at local store, that"s why. i might change to synthetic oil in the future but not really a big deal to me.
after i changed oil last night, the bike ran a bit smoother.
and i used to put 91 grade gas in all my bikes, i have read many post that our bike only needs 87 grade, so last night i ran out of gas and i switch from 91 to 87.......wow.......there is a big difference!!!! i don't feel the drag when throttle and air/gas balanced better, burns a lot cleaner. exhaust sounds clean beat not too much air when idle. this forum really helps me a lot that i don't know about this bike.
where do you all get your service manual ? I can't seem to find the electronic California version to download.....
please let me know, thanks
Roman's 5.8 is right on, especially about getting the oil filter off.
Kawasaki assemblers really tork it on.
Get the right size filter wrench.
I use Valvoline 10/40 motorcycle oil with a Purolator filter.
Roman's 5.8 is right on, especially about getting the oil filter off.
Kawasaki assemblers really tork it on.
Get the right size filter wrench.
I use Valvoline 10/40 motorcycle oil with a Purolator filter.
Enjoy the Ride!!!!
Keithinpa
my oil filter wrench from honda opens up the filter like butter.
If you actually saw the amount of metal and debris in the oil at even 50 miles you'd wince you waited so long. I make it a point of performing the first oil/filter change on a new or rebuilt engine at 20 miles, the first oil change is perhaps the most important one in the life of the engine. Frequent changes during the first 1k to remove all the debris is prudent preventative maintenance...
+1
I couldn't decide which parts of the above quote to clip... because each and every part is important. Very nicely said.
__________________
Bo Roop
2005 Kawasaki Vulcan 2000
In case it wasn't mentioned, one should not use Synthetic oil prior to 5000 miles or it can cause ring seat issues. Synthetic is a much better anti friction oil.
Are you positive 5000 miles is the magic number. I'm thinking by 2500 miles rings should seat if they are ever gioing to. Just my thinking , I am not qualified to say.
__________________
Micah 6:8 ( King James )
[He hath shewed thee, O man, what is good; and what doth the Lord require of thee, but to do justly, and to love mercy, and to walk humbly with thy God?]
Take the bike around the block. The oil will drain more completely when it's warm. Bike doesn't need to be HOT, just a little warm.
Good luck!
Excellent guide Romans5.8. One thing I've done over the years is to firstly loosen the drain plug when it is cold then tighten it again just enough before warming the engine. Sometimes the plug is on a bit tight (esp if factory/workshop) fitted and is harder to unbind when hot. Same applies for the filter although that's a more tedious proposition and probably not needed.
good to know that info, I'm using Valvoline 10W-40 conventional motorcycle oil now and have heard many people use it too and is easy to get at local store, that"s why. i might change to synthetic oil in the future but not really a big deal to me.
after i changed oil last night, the bike ran a bit smoother.
and i used to put 91 grade gas in all my bikes, i have read many post that our bike only needs 87 grade, so last night i ran out of gas and i switch from 91 to 87.......wow.......there is a big difference!!!! i don't feel the drag when throttle and air/gas balanced better, burns a lot cleaner. exhaust sounds clean beat not too much air when idle. this forum really helps me a lot that i don't know about this bike.
where do you all get your service manual ? I can't seem to find the electronic California version to download.....
please let me know, thanks
The only legal place to get the manual is Kawasaki.com. You'll have to buy it from there. It's about $75 last time I checked. It's cheaper to find a used print copy one on eBay if you can find it.
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"8 But God demonstrates his own love for us in this: While we were still sinners, Christ died for us."
Romans 5:8 (NIV)
2006 Vulcan 900 Classic LT "Couch-a-Saki/Mini-Bagger" Fire and Steel Highway Bars w/ pegs, Mustang seat, Harley-Davidson King TourPak, Shark 600W stereo, Rick's Stator, and more to come!
2011 Honda Shadow Aero 750 (Wife's) Memphis shades windshield, and one happy new rider!
Member of the Christian Motorcyclist Association
VROC: 34661
Patriot Guard Rider
The only legal place to get the manual is Kawasaki.com. You'll have to buy it from there. It's about $75 last time I checked. It's cheaper to find a used print copy one on eBay if you can find it.
I got mine from a dealership for $50. But they are out there on ebay and other such places.
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2008 V2K Classic
Who would have thought I would grow up to become "Spatially Educated" and play Connect-the-Dots for a living.
2006 Kawasaki Vulcan 900 Classic LT
Linear Mode
