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Old 06-20-2012, 09:55 AM   #1
Vulcanlishous
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Default Fast Flashing L turn signal

Ironic that I just joined and on they way home my bike developed a problem. The left turn signal started to flash really fast last night. It was just the left side. Right side worked fine. Any Ideas? Are these a two filament bulb and maybe one of the filaments are out? Did anyone else have problems with this? Thanks for any help.
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Old 06-20-2012, 10:01 AM   #2
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Front AND back? 'cause when my old bike did that (I noticed the front) it meant the back one was out.
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Old 06-20-2012, 10:03 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vulcanlishous View Post
Ironic that I just joined and on they way home my bike developed a problem. The left turn signal started to flash really fast last night. It was just the left side. Right side worked fine. Any Ideas? Are these a two filament bulb and maybe one of the filaments are out? Did anyone else have problems with this? Thanks for any help.
2008 Vulcan 900 LT classic
Sometimes it is a bulb. Mine was getting a bad connection. I replaced the bulb twice; when it happened again I used dielectric grease in the socket.

Use a very small amount on both the socket and the bulb, spread it very thin. Check for connection before re-installing the cover. If you don't get a good connection, wipe the socket and bulb with more force.
I did this about six months ago and have not had a problem since.

Scott
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Old 06-20-2012, 10:03 AM   #4
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Give it a gentle whack and see if it starts working. (No, really) Most of the time it will, which will tend to indicate that you need to yank the bulb, clean the contacts inside, and protect with a nice dialectric grease. My 2008 Vulcan does this from time to time, and those contacts in there build up a residue/corrosion that stops the flow.

I used a battery terminal brush in mine, GENTLY, without the grease the 1st time, and it kept it good for over a year. After that, a brush and the grease and I haven't had a problem since.
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Old 06-20-2012, 10:06 AM   #5
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We all get it eventually....one of the quirks.....some say there is a recall, I can't verify that. It's a dual filament bulb (1157)...the "track" that the bulb sets in is crappy. I've "fixed" it about 6 or 7 times now. Take the lens cover off, take out the bulb, a little grease and reinsert. Seems to fix it for a couple of weeks. The lazy way is give the blinker a gentle whack. Some say it's a ground problem that Kawi is aware of....
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Old 06-20-2012, 10:18 AM   #6
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One of the bulbs is burned out, probally rear, or one is not making good contact. Known issue with most bikes is loss of contact for light bulbs. Check bulbs for working, then look at contacts. Clean contacts and replace.
The front bulb is a two filament 1157 bulb but the rears are 1156 single filament bulbs.
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Old 06-20-2012, 10:22 AM   #7
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I wonder if a thin film of silicone sealer applied to the edges of the lens before putting it back on would keep the water from getting in and corroding the contacts.
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Old 06-20-2012, 10:58 AM   #8
Vulcanlishous
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Thanks everyone, I love this site already. Ill be working on my lights this weekend. I think Ill just do all four turn signals, or should I do taillight too with dielectric? BTW it was both front and back turn signal doing it. Thanks again I appreciate the quick replies. What is everyone's thoughts on the sealant around lenses? My thought if any water would get in then no way to drain. Probably a double edged sword.

Last edited by Vulcanlishous; 06-20-2012 at 12:07 PM.
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Old 06-20-2012, 11:12 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vulcanlishous View Post
Thanks everyone, I love this site already. Ill be working on my lights this weekend. I think Ill just do all for turn signals, or should I do taillight too with dielectric? BTW it was both front and back turn signal doing it. Thanks again I appreciate the quick replies. What is everyone's thoughts on the sealant around lenses? My thought if any water would get in then no way to drain. Probably a double edged sword.
Al the lenses have a gasket...(careful u don't kink it when you put them back on)....the screws also have gasket "washers"....dont drop and lose them.

Don't overdo the diecletic grease....it doesn't "conduct" well....(or at all)....
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Cobra luggage rack.
Kuryakyn Grand Tourer luggage bag.
Kuryakyn air filter cover.
170/80/15 Metzler rear tire.
Fire and Ice passenger floorboards.
Stage 2 debaffle (screens left intact).

Last edited by silenthill; 06-20-2012 at 11:14 AM.
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Old 06-20-2012, 12:25 PM   #10
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Default Silicone

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomad46 View Post
I wonder if a thin film of silicone sealer applied to the edges of the lens before putting it back on would keep the water from getting in and corroding the contacts.
Please don't do it. I spent nearly 40 years, as a Quality Manager, with a company manufacturing tail lamp assemblies for the Big 3, and a couple foreign makers. Every attempt to make "sealed" sockets for cars, trailers, and trucks failed. The thermal expansion and contraction due to internal and external heating and cooling always resulted in ruptured seals and moisture migration into the housing that then couldn't escape. The trapped moisture the really prompts the corrosion issue. GM used a thermal mastic for years to slow down the issue. It works for a couple years. The best we ever found was what has already been suggested. A coating of dielectric grease on the lamp and socket contacts works just fine. Never hardens, is thermally stable, prevents water/moisture from getting into the electrical contact areas. End result is that every tail lamp assembly made today has a "vent" hole, down low in the assembly. It's really there to let the water/condensation out!
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