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Old 11-03-2011, 11:56 PM   #1
RRKR.
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Default Vibrates Like a Harley Now.....I think

Have had my bike bare for a few months until a couple weeks ago. I have now put the shield and bags back on. It isn't running badly, its just that under low to mid rpm range acceleration, it seems to "thump" and vibrate way way more than it used to, more like a Harley does... Pulses pretty damn (too) hard. Not a slam to H/D at all..............but the Vn2K always felt just right, you could tell you were on a big twin, but it didn't put you off the thing.

I don't think it's my imagination, that the bike is V-twining more than it did before. I suspect it started doing it while the thing was bare but I didn't notice it. Oil is ok, Fuel processor apparently functioning well (cobra fi2000). The factory sized K&N was rather dirty, so it was cleaned thoroughly and re-oiled......no help. I have not checked the plugs yet, but....it's not missing, the damn vibration is annoying. It is not a wheel or tire, or belt......it's motor. Pulling in the clutch stops it. Higher rpm's tame it some, 75-100 it buzzes a bit more than it used to, but manageable, not like 40-65 constant speed, or as stated, acceleration in the "torque" band.

Anyone else...................thanks
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Old 11-04-2011, 07:22 AM   #2
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Sounds like somethings out of balance either in your clutch pack or in your engine counter-balancers neither of which I would want to mess with. Let us know what you find.
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Old 11-04-2011, 10:40 AM   #3
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V2k and Softail hardleys,, these BIG Vtwins have dual counter balancers to offset the horrendous primary vibration they otherwise would make. Because of the balancers, these motors are also ridgid mounted in their frames, thus the motor becomes part of the integrity of the frame and help Ridgid up the entire ride
Where as some hardley motors are not counter-balanced (Dynas and FLH-Tour series) are heavily rubber mounted and shake like the dickens at idle, but smooth out above idle.

Anyway, from what you are describing is as though the Counter Weights (chain driven) are no longer in sync with the crank/piston movements to offer their counter balancing effect. How thats possible. dunno? but that is what your describing. ponchout

sorry just read,, pulling in the clutch stops it.. is key.. what changes when you pull in the clutch.
the motor is still spinning, so its not the motor inducing the vibration.
the primary drive, chain and clutch basket is still spinning.. it aint them.
The clutch plates may be worn unevenly causing this..
or your tranny may be telling you something is amiss and is 'bout to blow its cookies..
I'd be gettin down on the clutch and tranny b4 doing anymore serious riding.

Last edited by Poncho Villa; 11-04-2011 at 10:45 AM.
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Old 11-04-2011, 02:22 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poncho Villa View Post
V2k and Softail hardleys,, these BIG Vtwins have dual counter balancers to offset the horrendous primary vibration they otherwise would make. Because of the balancers, these motors are also ridgid mounted in their frames, thus the motor becomes part of the integrity of the frame and help Ridgid up the entire ride
Where as some hardley motors are not counter-balanced (Dynas and FLH-Tour series) are heavily rubber mounted and shake like the dickens at idle, but smooth out above idle.

Anyway, from what you are describing is as though the Counter Weights (chain driven) are no longer in sync with the crank/piston movements to offer their counter balancing effect. How thats possible. dunno? but that is what your describing. ponchout

sorry just read,, pulling in the clutch stops it.. is key.. what changes when you pull in the clutch.
the motor is still spinning, so its not the motor inducing the vibration.
the primary drive, chain and clutch basket is still spinning.. it aint them.
The clutch plates may be worn unevenly causing this..
or your tranny may be telling you something is amiss and is 'bout to blow its cookies..
I'd be gettin down on the clutch and tranny b4 doing anymore serious riding.

Ponch,

at whatever speed I am at, pulling in the clutch stops all the vibration. It only does it under low to mid range acceleration, ALSO pretty noticeable at 60-65 mph. At speeds above 70 or around 3k rpm it settles down.

I was hoping it wouldn't be a counter balance issue, since it mellows out at higher speeds. I tried to believe it was all in my imagination....but it's not.

I currently only ride about 7 miles each way to work, so I won't be too in trouble if it breaks. Gonna keep riding it and see what happens

thanks
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Old 11-04-2011, 07:34 PM   #5
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Not a good idea. It's like if your brakes on your car wear down to the rotor but you say to yourself, I'll just keep on driving my car until this noise stops, which it will eventually but you will have cost yourself a lot more money than if you had had it fixed earlier. Am I breakin through the haze yet???
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Old 11-04-2011, 09:12 PM   #6
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If its still under warrenty and not something you changed or caused due to mods then dont worry so much if it breaks. If its real noticable to you then it should be noticable to dealer and let them fix it, on them.
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Old 11-05-2011, 02:56 AM   #7
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vibration problems are often caused by loose engine mounts.the vn is solid mounted so loose mounts would cause vibration.putting the screen back on would make this more noticeable.screens almost always seem to make bikes mechanically noisier and vibrations more noticeable.check all the engine,exhaust and bag mounts.does the motor vibrate more stationary? it might pay to check the front pulley nut as that could cause vibes on the move.
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Old 11-05-2011, 10:50 AM   #8
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I had the also vibtration problems.
It urn out to be the front pully, with came lose.
The dealer replaced the shaft and pully, un warrenty, and now it rides like a new bike.

Grz. Metric Cruiser
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Old 11-05-2011, 03:23 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wild_Bill View Post
Not a good idea. It's like if your brakes on your car wear down to the rotor but you say to yourself, I'll just keep on driving my car until this noise stops, which it will eventually but you will have cost yourself a lot more money than if you had had it fixed earlier. Am I breakin through the haze yet???
I'm not in a haze thanks.

At some point I will find the problem and fix it. I just wondered if anyone else had the same problem, and if so, what it was.

I have seen guys do (exploratory surgery) repairs on bikes, cars, tractors, whatever.........and spent big $$$$ and still not find the exact problem until it breaks, and they have wasted all the down time and money anyway. I don't ride all that much anyway, but I'll have to, to be able to figure out the problem.

For the most part I have no confidence in dealers/mechanics in diagnosing and fixing stuff like this
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Old 11-06-2011, 06:57 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RRKR. View Post
I'm not in a haze thanks.

At some point I will find the problem and fix it. I just wondered if anyone else had the same problem, and if so, what it was.

I have seen guys do (exploratory surgery) repairs on bikes, cars, tractors, whatever.........and spent big $$$$ and still not find the exact problem until it breaks, and they have wasted all the down time and money anyway. I don't ride all that much anyway, but I'll have to, to be able to figure out the problem.

For the most part I have no confidence in dealers/mechanics in diagnosing and fixing stuff like this
I am one of those guys that has spent the $$$ but in the end ,I knew what it wasn't , and that allowed me to eventually figure out what was making my belt squeal . Sometimes you have to trust the mechanics but I would make darn sure that the mechanic was familiar with the Vulcan 2000 and had the technical service manual for your bike. The town I live in has a Powersports business with guys that do this kind of thing for a living so I don't worry too much about getting ripped off. I do know the feeling though . I've allways tried to become as knowledgable about things on my bike as I could by reading my manual before I took it in for repairs. One thing I would rule out first if I were you is that drive pulley and shaft. You can remove the covers and observe it while riding which is dangerous or raise up back tire and take off tension and see if there is any play in that pulley and or shaft. Also make sure the rear pulley bolts are tight also make sure no teeth missing in belt. You are looking for a vibration somewhere in the engine or drivetrain. Its highly improbable that the things I have mentioned are the cause but not impossible. One thing I've learned about motorcycles is , a sound can be bouncing off of your windsheild and make you think it's the front bearings when its really the rear belt. Same for vibrations. Might want to try placing you hand on the area you think it is while you are riding, clutch case area or on the other side the engine balancer area. Try everything you can before taking it in. I hope it's not in the engine. The clutch pack is much easier to work on. These are the things I would rule out first then go on to the hard stuff.
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