Sounds like a wrestling move doesn't it? Anyway I finally got around to making myself two 1/4 X 1 1/2 X 3" with 1/2" holes on 1 1/2" centers to drop the rear of the bike down. Gotta say it did wonders for the looks. Before I could see about 1/4 of daylight between the top of the tire and the bottom of the fender, now the bottom of the fender is right at the sidewall. The biggest difference that I noticed (may sound funny) is man handling it. Before I could flat foot it but my legs were straight and it took some effort maneuvering in a parking lot. Now my knees have some bend in them so I get more push. The ride is different also but I attribute that to tightening up the monoshock, which I'd been meaning to do but never got around to doing it 'til now. All in all I'm out about $15 - $20, dang metric bolts are 4X what a standard is, but everything went in nice and smooth, especially after rounding off one end of the bracket. Thanks for the idea Poncherello, keep 'em coming.
credit belongs to Gilly-Iowa. is his design mod. I just copied and simpled it up a tad bit. GI has moved on and rewelded his stok pivot point back/up so that the links are not needed.. as it is SLAMMED to the pavement.
Dang, three inches? Did you have to tunnel out your seat pan or what?
ky'r,, if that drawing is anywhere near to scale, the markings are missed-marked. its 3" total, top to bottom. with centers 3/4" off edges, leaves 1.5" center to center. same oh same oh.
ky'r,, if that drawing is anywhere near to scale, the markings are missed-marked. its 3" total, top to bottom. with centers 3/4" off edges, leaves 1.5" center to center. same oh same oh.
Shit ! Your right. My mistake...
I'm going to take off the drawing.
Wouldn't want to screw up someone
$20 and a half day work... or $120 and drink a :beer:
holygrale, these are home made links that reposition yor rear shock further back and up so that the rear swing A-arm lowers the rear end.
These (2) links are made of 1/4" steel plate at least 1.5" wide by 3" long. In each link, drill (2) 1/2" holes at 1.5" centers down the centerline of the link.
Put yor bike on a lift and remove the shock rear bolt and nut. You will need (2) longer metric size bolts and nuts to go thru the new links and the existing A-arm mount point.
I had used some heavy duty large spacers to Offset the links to clear the width of the shock.
Now put a longer metric bolt thru the upper holes on the links thru the shock bolt holes and use some spacers to keep the shock from being squeazed. It needs to be able to rotate on this bolt axis.
ok, because the shock now rides a bit higher in the frame, you will need to cut a rib off the bottom of your seat pan so that it sits down and doesnt ride on the shock spring.
having had done all this and adjusted the shock, I found it to be Too Ruff ride for my likes.. so, recently, last week, I bought the Barons Lowering Kit for a Buck Twenty and swapped it out. Much More Better. ever thing moves like 'spose to. will write a report when I get some road time on it. poncho
ps. had the seat rebuilt as well.
Last edited by Poncho Villa; 07-05-2012 at 11:46 AM.
Ponch, the only right way to lower the V2K is cut the shock mount off,wack off 1/2" and swivel it 30 degress and reweld. You end up two inches shorter and still have the original shock mount bushings, plus it won't hit the seat. If you need another inch, get a -1 Progressive shock. I'm down two now with original mount,(no link) and this winter going to buy the Progressive. Did you know it's possible to squeeze a 235/50/16 tire on with a little tweeking?
The Poncho drop mod...
Linear Mode
