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Oil filter removal

11K views 33 replies 22 participants last post by  fawlty99 
#1 ·
I am getting ready to store my 900 and the stock oil filter is stuck on. I have replaced once in the spring of this year and just snugged it on. Has anyone found a good oil filter tool for Kawasaki filters or a good method to break a stuck one? Also what are you guys (or ladies) using as a replacement oil filter? I am going to replace the stock part number one (provided I get this one off) with a Purolator PureOne PL14612. Any thoughts?
 
#2 ·
The best oil filter removal tools (I've found) for stuck filters is the strap and lever types. They are available at various places and online. If you are in a pinch you can use an old serpintine belt, or any belt or strap that's thin enough to fit between the filter and other surrounding items.

Wrap the strap around the filter and then wrap it around a handle of some sort and rotate (pull) the filter off. Try to get it near the base of the filter or they will colllaspe on you.
 
#3 ·
Thanks R_W_B,

I own many types and sizes but have not tried the strap type. This will be my next purchase (probably tomorrow) since I don't have an old belt to use. I hope it works for me. The vulcan 900 doesn't allow much room to get any tool with a lever on it so maybe I will have to try to make one as you stated.

Thanks again.
 
#5 ·
MachU

Thanks, I may end up doing just that if all else fails. There are only so many tools to try. I never had to resort to this tactic but I guess there's a first time for everything. The 900 doesn't offer much room fo rany tools except attaching onto the top. Brackets, frame or sensor block the filter pretty much.

Thanks, may end your way.
 
#6 ·
Mike he's right if you got room to turn the screwdriver that is the easiest. I've had so many applications where there just wasn't enough room to get a screwdriver in there and then turn it.

But either method you use try to get close to base, I've seen um collapse on me where I ended up tearing it literally to pieces before I got it loose.
 
#8 ·
#9 ·
Thanks guys (R_W_B, MachU & Vulcan 41),

I will look into the strap as R_W_B suggested and the Habor Freight tool suggested by Vulcan 41, I have one similar to that one (which Vulcan 41 suggests) but it does not have the rubber grips on the end and it just slips around the end flats of the filter without gripping it. Perhaps this one would be work. I am going to have a great collection of oil filter tools. I only thing that that worries me that I can think of when using the screwdriver through the filter and getting close to the base, is knowing where the protruding block threaded boss ends so that not to damage it.

Appreciate all you responses.

Mike
 
#10 ·
Usually approximately half way into the filter and you should be good. Just remember that the further away you are from the threaded inlet the weaker and more flimsy your grip will be. Try putting vacuum caps on the tips of your spider wrench if you have any so that it will grip better. That is why I said the good ones have better rubber tips and they also do not fall off or break off. If not the old trick of a large screwdriver or large channel locks will do the trick and it's quite fun ripping it off to get even with the stubborn thing!
 
#11 ·
Commache,

I am willing to look at these also. I agree, seams the cheap tools tend to exactly that cheap, I have several, unfortunately.

Also read your reply in the G*** & Motorcycle forum post. Thank you for your service and glad you came out ahead with the two visitors to your shop. We need more like you.

Mike
 
#12 · (Edited)
The only type I've found to work well on a stuck filter is the strap type wrench, in steel. If that doesn't fit or do it then pretty much anything goes and it's probably screwdriver and hammer time.

The one I use is like this: http://www.arizonatools.com/band-and-strap-wrenches/detail/LIS53500/

If you order, just be sure you get the one that fits these smaller filters.
 
#13 ·
whoaru99,

I believe I got that tool same tool, and I like it, but the throw is limited because the oil sensor switch is in the way. I tried this tool and it grips well but I could not loosen the filter. It did crush the filter a bit, so maybe use this and the screwdriver would get it off.
 
#14 · (Edited)
For the OEM filter you can get an exact fit "steel" cover oil remover that fits over top of the filter and you use a 3/8" ratchet to remove it. I found it to work great if you can get it on...tolerances are way too tight. The OEM one didn't fit an aftermarket one I purchased. They sell them in plastic as well...they don't work for removal...just keep slipping or crack.

I tried the spider ones, mine was without the rubber ends and that didn't work. Would just spin.

I tried many others but space is very limited and as such was unable to either get them on or enough room to remove the filter.

I ended up with the simple strap one. It's attached to the end of a square piece of straight pipe into which fits a 1/2" ratchet. This works great...simple and efficient. I use it as my "removal tool". I apply a new filter with the "plastic" cover type...fits a 3/8" ratchet. OK for installation at "torque" specifications.

As for filter replacement, I use the Fram replacement. Good quality and less expensive. I change my oil and filter frequently. I've had great results, no complaints.
 
#17 ·
For the OEM filter you can get an exact fit "steel" cover oil remover that fits over top of the filter and you use a 3/8" ratchet to remove it. I found it to work great if you can get it on...tolerances are way too tight. The OEM one didn't fit an aftermarket one I purchased. They sell them in plastic as well...they don't work for removal...just keep slipping or crack...
I had the same experience. Bought a plastic cap type at the local auto parts store and it just spun around the filter. Ended up buying a metal cap type at the bike dealership, tapped it on (lightly) with a rubber mallet so that it seated snuggly on the filter and it worked great. When you put the new filter on make sure you torque it to the proper specification (and no more) and you’ll be fine next time around.
 
#16 ·
This is what I use all the time. Actually just the big one. The little one stays in the house for the wife to open jars and such. http://www.lowes.com/pd_253674-16878-50540_0__?productId=1072405&Ntt=strap+wrench&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dstrap%2Bwrench&facetInfo=

I have also taken a shop rag and put over the filter and then put a metal strap style one (the one that Whoaru99 mentioned). I had to do this on my wife's Mitsubishi Eclipse once. I actually started to pick my self up off the ground with my feet in the bumper. It finally broke loose like that.
 
#19 ·
If I really need a tool, then I use a large pair of pliers that looks something like this:


I don't normally use it since I hand-tighten the filter and never had any leaks.
I grab the old filter and the new one and make them kiss each other on the rubber ring as I twist them clockwise/counter-clockwise (I know too much romance in the garage), that way the rubber on the new filter gets the proper amount of lubrication.
Afterward, I spin it on slowly until the filter makes contact with the engine and comes to a stop. At that point, I turn it (single hand) one full turn or until I can no longer turn it without turning purple (of course, whichever comes first).

I have used the same exact oil filter on 3 different make bikes and have been very happy: Hi-Flo 303 :)
- 2007 Kawasaki Vulcan 900 Custom
- 2006 Yamaha Vmax
- 2003 Honda NightHawk CB750
 
#21 ·
Car quest sells a tool that fixes to a socket wrench and clamps down on the end of the filter. Works awesome. Also k+n sells a filter with a bolt head on the end for removal with a socket. As long as you don't over-tighten the filter this works great. Saves alot of cussing and tool throwing!
 
#23 ·
100% on the channel locks...even removed the "factory" installed filter at the first change...

Alternatively, drive a screwdriver through it...making sure you've got some room to turn the screwdriver once its through...only takes 1/8th of a turn to loosen the beast...the rest by hand...
 
#24 ·
Update,

Finally got to get back to working on this removal. I picked up a strap type at the auto store for 7 dollars. At first it did nothing but crush the can more than it already was. Then I kept repositioning the strap a few times and finally it budged and I was able to remove the filter. What concerns me is I am very careful replacing filters, lubing the gasket and threads and hand snugging the filter and only tightening to ensure no leak more than the initial wipe off after installation squeeze. The filter I just removed I placed on last spring ( my first change on this bike) and I used the factory Kawasaki filter and it threaded on easily. I replaced this time with a Purolator PureOne PL14612, took the same installation steps, lubed gasket and threaded area and hand tighten, started and checked for leaks. We'll see if I get the same problem again.

Mike
 
#25 ·
I actually tried the screwdriver method before the successful channel locks & only managed to twist through the thin filter metal getting oil all over my hands in the process. Guess mine was on wicked tight. Would've been seriously screwed (pun intended) if the channel locks had been a bust. It was high ridin' season here in southern NE.
 
#26 ·
I also did use the screw driver through the oil filter method and even though I had thoroughly drained the oil prior, it still got messy and I still think using channel lock pliers was the easiest. I saw no point in spending more money on another tool that has only one use and doesn't even do a better job.

The only other type of pliers that might have been a bit more suitable are these:


Mike, were the threads looked OK? If the threads were rusty or messed up, that could have been the cause. Also do the oil changes when the engine is still relatively warm (not hot to touch though). If you tightened it when everything was cold then it expands, plus the heat, perhaps it bonded a bit too tight?

Another idea is to try K&N filter next time, they come with a nut welded in the front so you can just use a socket wrench or a regular wrench.
 
#27 · (Edited)
TurcoLoco,

Yes, the threads were clean and not damaged when I changed the filter each time. I had the same thought about the tightening the filter once it cools down and later expanding as it heats up. I don't know if it matters. I do know that it made no difference in the removal, warm engine or dead cold that filter on there. Once the seal was broken the filter spun easily. I am reluctant to tighten this new filter more should I see a small oil drio from the filter.

Mike
 
#28 ·
Last time I tried using a large screwdriver to remove an oil filter, all it did was tear the outside of the filter and it made a big mess. The strap works well, though. I like the Purolator Pure One filters. They're relatively cheap and of good quality. Never had a problem with one.
 
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