Oil filter removal

[The Dave]

Car quest sells a tool that fixes to a socket wrench and clamps down on the end of the filter. Works awesome. Also k+n sells a filter with a bolt head on the end for removal with a socket. As long as you don't over-tighten the filter this works great. Saves alot of cussing and tool throwing!

[smithdog]

Had exactly the same problem m'self. Go for the large channel locks & save yerself cash & frustration in one extremely satisfying crunch & release. Just sayin'.

[Shadow01]

100% on the channel locks...even removed the "factory" installed filter at the first change...

Alternatively, drive a screwdriver through it...making sure you've got some room to turn the screwdriver once its through...only takes 1/8th of a turn to loosen the beast...the rest by hand...

[mikecustom900]

Update,

Finally got to get back to working on this removal. I picked up a strap type at the auto store for 7 dollars. At first it did nothing but crush the can more than it already was. Then I kept repositioning the strap a few times and finally it budged and I was able to remove the filter. What concerns me is I am very careful replacing filters, lubing the gasket and threads and hand snugging the filter and only tightening to ensure no leak more than the initial wipe off after installation squeeze. The filter I just removed I placed on last spring ( my first change on this bike) and I used the factory Kawasaki filter and it threaded on easily. I replaced this time with a Purolator PureOne PL14612, took the same installation steps, lubed gasket and threaded area and hand tighten, started and checked for leaks. We'll see if I get the same problem again.

Mike

[smithdog]

I actually tried the screwdriver method before the successful channel locks & only managed to twist through the thin filter metal getting oil all over my hands in the process. Guess mine was on wicked tight. Would've been seriously screwed (pun intended) if the channel locks had been a bust. It was high ridin' season here in southern NE.

[TurcoLoco]

I also did use the screw driver through the oil filter method and even though I had thoroughly drained the oil prior, it still got messy and I still think using channel lock pliers was the easiest. I saw no point in spending more money on another tool that has only one use and doesn't even do a better job.

The only other type of pliers that might have been a bit more suitable are these:


Mike, were the threads looked OK? If the threads were rusty or messed up, that could have been the cause. Also do the oil changes when the engine is still relatively warm (not hot to touch though). If you tightened it when everything was cold then it expands, plus the heat, perhaps it bonded a bit too tight?

Another idea is to try K&N filter next time, they come with a nut welded in the front so you can just use a socket wrench or a regular wrench.

[mikecustom900]

TurcoLoco,

Yes, the threads were clean and not damaged when I changed the filter each time. I had the same thought about the tightening the filter once it cools down and later expanding as it heats up. I don't know if it matters. I do know that it made no difference in the removal, warm engine or dead cold that filter on there. Once the seal was broken the filter spun easily. I am reluctant to tighten this new filter more should I see a small oil drio from the filter.

Mike

[Strompilot]

Last time I tried using a large screwdriver to remove an oil filter, all it did was tear the outside of the filter and it made a big mess. The strap works well, though. I like the Purolator Pure One filters. They're relatively cheap and of good quality. Never had a problem with one.

[Bear2123]

Harbor Freight Strap Wrench @ $4.99. It works!

[Ghost]

On my 900 the only method that consistently worked was the punch the screwdriver method.
Gonna do an oil change on my Nomad this weekend and I'm looking forward to seeing how that goes!