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Old 11-30-2012, 03:03 PM   #1
JoeCubicle
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Default Handlebars - I Want 'Flatter' bars

Hey all,
Has anyone replaced their bars?
I've got pretty decent carpal tunnel syndrome and forearm/elbow tendonitis.
The angle the hand grips are at now are killing my wrists. See the image below.
I'd love some flatter bars (if I'm using the correct term).

My big question is how does one go about knowing what angles the new bars will
be at in relation to my riding position.
Do you pretty much have to have the bars with you and hold them as close as you can to being 'in place'?

Also, if someone has a link or an online store great for bars, let me know.



Thanks,
Pat G.
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Old 11-30-2012, 03:44 PM   #2
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I can definitely see how that angle would effect you. Have you tried something like this?

http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/motor...brake-away.htm

In a related topic what does anyone have to say about this happening to them and the results or assistance they've gotten to try and prevent it? Not trying to hijack here but it is a related problem for us as riders.

http://www.racerxvt.com/article/arm-pump
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Last edited by Comanche; 11-30-2012 at 03:56 PM.
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Old 11-30-2012, 03:52 PM   #3
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Hoping this might prime someone's interest too in another related rider problem.

http://www.innova-pain.com/2012/03/0...iding-posture/

http://voices.yahoo.com/handlebar-pa...lists-174.html
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Old 11-30-2012, 06:28 PM   #4
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I don't have carpal tunnel but I have always liked drag bars (like the ones you show). Had um on a Triumph Bonneville back in the 70s and had um on my previous bike (a Harley Street Bob). I plan to put um on my current Nomad eventually.

You can also get TBars which is a drag bar with the riser built into the bars, but sometimes those don't quite have the needed up/down rotation angle (not pullback angle). With risers and dragbar you can rotate the dragbar to just where you want it.

Now admittedly if you don't have long arms, you are gonna need some risers with pullback. Also the Kawa hydraulic controls take up a bit more bar length than Harleys so make sure you get enough bar from end to bend.

Also you get more selection of risers (and better prices) from the ones made for Harleys, which have 1/2" riser threads. So you would have to replace the riser bolts on your kawa to match. With the older models I believe they had to drill out the tree a tad. With the 1700s (from what I've checked on) I think they are actually a tad more than 1/2" dia OEM and might have to wrap the 1/2" bolts with some stainless steel shim tape, not sure haven't done it yet.

I would recommend replacing your riser bolts with Grade 8 bolts anyhow (unless you have Grade 8 in um already). Riser bolts have broken, maybe because of over torquing, or whatever. I like grade 8 riser bolts.

These are some nice drag bars at a good price.
http://www.bikerparts-superstore.com...-harley-custom

Also some ZBars come with a more straight hand angle like you want, you could search on those. You could use your OEM risers with those and just rotate the bars for pullback angle.

Anyhow just some ideas your way, hope it helps.
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Old 12-01-2012, 09:37 AM   #5
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Thanks Comanche and R_W_B. My problem is initially wrist angle (side to side). After some in town riding my wrists just ache.
I have a throttle-lock and use it a lot. I was just looking for some help knowing what the bars I'm looking for are called and some technical tips.
Come spring (Dec 1, 2012 now) I'll try to get my hands on some and see how the angle feels.
I'm pretty handy, careful and patient. Would you two suggest trying to change them out myself or have a MC shop do it?

Thanks,
Pat G.
Omaha NE
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Old 12-01-2012, 10:19 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeCubicle View Post
Thanks Comanche and R_W_B. My problem is initially wrist angle (side to side). After some in town riding my wrists just ache.
I have a throttle-lock and use it a lot. I was just looking for some help knowing what the bars I'm looking for are called and some technical tips.
Come spring (Dec 1, 2012 now) I'll try to get my hands on some and see how the angle feels.
I'm pretty handy, careful and patient. Would you two suggest trying to change them out myself or have a MC shop do it?

Thanks,
Pat G.
Omaha NE
it's easy easy easy to change out bars. If "I", Mr. RUB himself, can do it anybody can.

In fact, only about 8 weeks ago, I took my bars off, drilled em out, and ran the electrical wires thru it. But.. i should have just bought new bars that came pre-drilled. Would have been easier

there are TONS of reading material on the net, explaining the three main things that describe bars, width, height, and pullback.

And there are TONS of 1'inch bars. Chromed, not chromed, dimpled, not dimpled, etc etc
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Old 12-01-2012, 06:08 PM   #7
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JoeCubicle if you want to experiment with how different setups feel, do this.
Buy a stick of 3/4" PVC at Home Cheapo (it ain't much). Also buy 4 PVC 3/4" 90 degree elbows and if they have um buy 2 of the 22.5 degree elbows.

Bring um home and cut out some bars to your liking with your hack saw and just stick the cuts into the elbows (don't glue um).

Put a 2x4 block under your sidestand, then put a piece of masking tape around your OEM bars running right beside the riser top clamp. Also put a small piece of tape on the side of the one riser top clamp. Then with an ink pen mark both pieces of tape. This will allow you to return your OEM bars back to where they were. Turn the front towards straight.

Next put a heavy towel on your tank (just for safety sake), then loosen all your top clamps bolts enough to rotate your OEM bars down low and out of the way, and then retighten them enough so they don't slip when you grab them. Be careful turning them, if they are real low they could hit your tank.

Now grab your PVC bars and sit on the seat and put the bars on top of the top clamp. You can fool around with different angles and cuts to get an idea of how high and how much pull back (and hand angle) you are gonna want in your ideal bars. If you are real creative you can actually bend the PVC with a torch, but don't get um too hot or they will melt.

Then after you get them where you want them, mark them with a marker. You can hopefully buy some after market ones with the same specs, if not you can get some custom made at a fab shop and then have um powder coated but it will be expensive to go the custom route (unless you can weld or have a tubing bender).

Just a thought. Also when you return the bars back, I would recommend torquing the riser clamp bolts to manual specs.
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Old 12-01-2012, 09:28 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R_W_B View Post
I would recommend replacing your riser bolts with Grade 8 bolts anyhow (unless you have Grade 8 in um already). Riser bolts have broken, maybe because of over torquing, or whatever. I like grade 8 riser bolts.
Keep in mind that the metric equivalent of what we call "grade 8" fasteners is 10.9. The lower metric grade is 8.8, roughly equivalent to our grade 5.
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Old 12-02-2012, 06:37 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by pacomutt View Post
Keep in mind that the metric equivalent of what we call "grade 8" fasteners is 10.9. The lower metric grade is 8.8, roughly equivalent to our grade 5.
Excellent point, if the OP buys OEM compatible risers, he might want to check what the OEM metric rating is on his riser bolts.

If he buys Harley compatible risers, he can pick up SAE grade 8, 1/2" bolts at any Ace Hardware for a reasonalble price.

If I were you I'd stay away from Stainless Steel bolts where strength is critical, the anti-rust additives affect the strength ratings. If you look at the tensile strength of SS bolts you will notice they are all over the place and most often way lower than the same size non SS grade 8. Some will even say "not rated".

I have seen grade 8 SS bolts, hard to find and their specs are still ambigious and I don't trust um. I use stainless on saddlebag mounts and trim stuff only. Just the way I am. Besides if you hit the heads with a bit of polish every now and again, rust is not a problem. I've had motor mount bolts installed on my previous bikes that lasted for two yrs with no noticeable deterioration of the original gold colored plating. And that is down low near the road. A good rub down of polish at every clean up can do wonders.
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