I have a 2006 Kawasaki Vulcan 900 with 24k miles. Yesterday while riding I noticed the speedometer quit. Shortly thereafter the engine quit and would not start (just a clicking sound from the solenoid). I had it towed home where I tested the battery with a multimeter; it was 11.9v. I removed the battery, put it on a trickle charger overnight and this AM it was 12.9v. I put it in the bike and the bike started. I tested the battery @ about 3000rpm and the results were very sporadic registering anywhere from 11.9v to 12.9v. It was just jumping all around with no real stopping or leveling point. My guess is the battery is fine but the stator and/or rectifier are shot. I plan to replace both. Thoughts?
Last edited by Yahooligan; 11-26-2012 at 03:34 PM.
that is where I would start. I do not know what the voltage and resistance for said parts but if you are not getting 14v or so back to the battery then that is probably where your lies. I believe there is a "Sticky" in the 900 forum with all the good info in it. Roll over there and check it out. http://www.vulcanforums.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=24679
1985 Honda Nighthawk 650 (First Bike)
2004 Vulcan 1500 Classic (First Big Bike)
2007 Vulcan 1600 Meanstreak (Love Affair)
1999 Yamaha 1100 V-Star Custom (Right Price at the Time)
2008 V2K Classic (Favorite Vulcan)
2014 HD Ultra Limited (Bells and Whistles)
Who would have thought I would grow up to become "Spatially Educated" and play Connect-the-Dots for a living.
Thank you sfair. I performed the tests and the results are as follows:
On testing the stator at idle:
A to B - 6.1
A to C - 8.8
B to C - 6.1
At an estimated 3000RPM:
A to B - 16.5
A to C - 22.2
B to C - 36.8
Test 2 - Short to ground
I used my known, working multimeter and with positive cable and 4-wire connector under the seat disconnected:
A to Neg terminal on battery - 0.00
B to Neg terminal on battery - 0.00
C to Neg terminal on battery - 0.00
Judging by the single-digit numbers on the voltage tests and compared with your results my stator is apparently not putting out like it should. Also, I have read somewhere that if you replace a bad stator you should also replace the rectifier. I don't mind replacing them both, what do you think? Thanks!
Last edited by Yahooligan; 11-26-2012 at 07:09 PM.
Stator looks bad.
I believe there is a regulator test described in the sticky. If you want to take a swing at it, it may save you some money. Reading somewhere that replacing the reg/rect is required is guaranteed to cost money. It is always best to prove out what the fault(s) are just like you have done with the stator.
And again, please post back with any questions or something that you are not clear on.
I did the post stator installation tests as described; here are the results.
Black probe to black pin, red probe to White 1 - no movement on the meter.
Black probe to black pin, red probe to White 2 - no movement on the meter.
Black probe to black pin, red probe to White 3 - no movement on the meter.
Black probe to red pin, red probe to White 1 - .662.
Black probe to red pin, red probe to White 2 - .631
Black probe to red pin, red probe to White 3 - .644
Red probe to black pin, black probe to White 1 - .625
Red probe to black pin, black probe to White 2 - .634
Red probe to black pin, black probe to White 3 - .639
Red probe to red pin, black probe to White 1 - .656
Red probe to red pin, black probe to White 2 - .640
Red probe to red pin, black probe to White 3 - .669