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Old 11-22-2012, 10:27 AM   #1
Doc8427
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Default Custom Baffles for my Road Burner/Hard Krome pipes

I've come to the conclusion I'm going to have to make my own baffles for my Road Burner Dual Radius pipes.

Road Burner (which is the same as Hard Krome / DG Performance) makes a 2 piece exhaust end, with the baffle welded into another pipe. The nice exhaust you see is really just a heat shield covering the actual pipe and baffle. You can sort of see that here:


The outer pipe has an OD of 2", and it's flared at the end to 2 1/4 " where it attaches to outer shell of the exhaust. The inner pipe has an ID of 1 3/4". This piece is what slips over the header. The outer shell covers all that and you clamp it down with a compression clamp.

I called DG Performance and found out this 2 pipe configuration keeps the shell from any blueing or discoloration. Essentially, the innermost pipe is the "baffle", the pipe over that is the actual exhaust pipe, and the outer shell that you see is really just a big, pretty heat shield. And to top it all off, the pipes are bent since the pipes are swept.

No one make this type of 2 pipe baffle. I can buy a baffle, but no outer pipe around it.

I was thinking I could make a baffle like the Cobra Quiet baffles out of the inner pipe, but instead of 1 3/4" ID, I could use a 1 1/4" ID pipe.

So all the exhaust goes through the 1 1/4" pipe, which will have holes drilled all around it and wrapped in fiberglass. The pipe will be capped at the half way point, which will force the exhaust out the holes. I will then drill holes in the other half of the pipe, the end will be open and expanded to 2" OD to snug into the outer pipe.

This is similar in design to the Cobra quiet baffles:

except instead of a cap right at the beginning, the pipe will be open to snug
over the header.

The whole thing will be around 12" or 13" long. Once it's all assembled, I'll put it in my Harbor Freight pipe bender and give it the same bend the current baffles have.

this should give me some pretty decent sound reduction, but still be more free flowing than the stock exhaust.

So, having said all that, anyone have any advice? or ideas? I'm a pretty handy guy, good with tools, though I will have to do some welding, which I'm not too good at.

Thanks for any advice! And happy Thanksgiving!

Doc
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Heaven is where the cops are British, the mechanics are German, the cooks are italian, the lovers are French, and it's all organized by the Swiss.

Hell is where they cops are German, the cooks are British, the mechanics are French, the lovers are Swiss, and it's all organized by the Italians.
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Old 11-22-2012, 11:34 AM   #2
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What exactly is it that you like so much about the pipes you now have on that is making you want to keep them and mod them? I usually just fab from scratch or else I buy something new that will work better than whatever it is that I currently have on a vehicle or bike.

As for welding pipes something like this doesn't require an expert welder. You seem pretty handy and I think you will do just fine. So, first I would say to ensure your metal is CLEAN of all oils and dirt since they will affect the weld. Use wire hand and drill-mount brushes to clean areas you are going to weld.

Then I would say to watch your heat and puddle while welding and grind down exterior welded areas you want to make look better. A lot of people lose their focus by looking at the bright light. FOCUS on the weld puddle.

Your goal is not to weld too hot or else you will burn your metal and make the weld too brittle and it will not have any strength. Think of the analogy of an ice cube being pushed by a straw across a hot griddle. If you slide it across at the right speed it will melt (i.e. puddle) at a smooth consistent rate. This is similar to push method welding. The pull method is just the opposite. It is a "pretty looking consistent puddle" that is a welder's goal and signature. You don't want bulky or clumpy looking welds.

Wish you success and looking forward to seeing how it all turns out.
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Old 11-22-2012, 01:36 PM   #3
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I like the blacked-out look, and the swept/curved look on the bike is way better than stock (in my humble opinion, of course).

Also, I only paid $399 for them, when retail is around $650 to $800 for similar pipes from other makers.

On the down side, they are just too loud (yes, I'm old, I know). After a one hour ride, by ears were ringing and I had a huge headache. I like the look, just need to make them a bit quieter.

For just about any other pipe I can probably find or retrofit a baffle. I called Thunder City Baffles and spoke to a very nice guy and he confirmed for me that Road Burner baffles are unique, so no one is likely to produce a quieter baffle for them. He gave me some advice on how I could use of of their baffles, but I would still need to fabricate the outer shell.

Thanks for the advice on the welding, I'm going to get some practice tomorrow on some spare pipe pieces before I try it on the real product.

Doc

Quote:
Originally Posted by Comanche View Post
What exactly is it that you like so much about the pipes you now have on that is making you want to keep them and mod them?
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Heaven is where the cops are British, the mechanics are German, the cooks are italian, the lovers are French, and it's all organized by the Swiss.

Hell is where they cops are German, the cooks are British, the mechanics are French, the lovers are Swiss, and it's all organized by the Italians.
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Old 11-22-2012, 03:15 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc8427 View Post
I like the blacked-out look, and the swept/curved look on the bike is way better than stock (in my humble opinion, of course).

Also, I only paid $399 for them, when retail is around $650 to $800 for similar pipes from other makers.

On the down side, they are just too loud (yes, I'm old, I know). After a one hour ride, by ears were ringing and I had a huge headache. I like the look, just need to make them a bit quieter.

For just about any other pipe I can probably find or retrofit a baffle. I called Thunder City Baffles and spoke to a very nice guy and he confirmed for me that Road Burner baffles are unique, so no one is likely to produce a quieter baffle for them. He gave me some advice on how I could use of of their baffles, but I would still need to fabricate the outer shell.

Thanks for the advice on the welding, I'm going to get some practice tomorrow on some spare pipe pieces before I try it on the real product.

Doc
Roger that, Doc! I hear you loud and clear. Those are nice pipes and a smoking deal you got for sure. Yeah, I have hearing issues too and know exactly what you mean.

Practice makes perfect and you will eventually determine your own speed and consistency for welding since everyone's reflexes vary somewhat along with their individual eye/hand coordination. Listen to the weld also. It should sound like crisp and clean sparking or arcing and if you notice too much spattering you're going too slow, laying down too much material and causing the puddle to do what I call "spatter out" which is similar to having an overheated oiled pan and dropping a frozen steak into it. Also always be vigilant to maintain the proper distance from tip to welding area and try to avoid "dipping" your tip into the puddle or welding area.

Your goal is to lay down enough material that is hot enough to puddle but also move on consistently so you don't overheat the area you're welding. Somewhat like a nice looking even clean "bead" similar to when you use a caulking gun. Thus, you spend only the amount of time necessary in any one area that is simultaneously sufficiently enough time to lay down enough "liquified" material. You'll do fine and don't forget to show us the pipes when you're done.

BTW, what kind of setup will you be welding with?
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Last edited by Comanche; 11-22-2012 at 03:23 PM.
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Old 11-22-2012, 03:43 PM   #5
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Well, I have a 90 amp Flux Wire welder from HF I got for cheap at a sidewalk sale, so I'm going to try with that first. If that doesn't go to well, I'll try a stick welder. I have 110 and 220 in the garage right so I can use either one.

The pipes are all 16ga aluminized steel, so I'm thinking a slow-ish wire feed on the LOW setting on the flux welder. The cap should be the easiest, I can tack weld that all the way around since that does not have to be 100% sealed, it's the welding of the back half of the pipe to that capped piece that I'm probably going to have a problem with.

Doc

Quote:
Originally Posted by Comanche View Post
BTW, what kind of setup will you be welding with?
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Heaven is where the cops are British, the mechanics are German, the cooks are italian, the lovers are French, and it's all organized by the Swiss.

Hell is where they cops are German, the cooks are British, the mechanics are French, the lovers are Swiss, and it's all organized by the Italians.
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