Just the pipes, I have not made any intake mods just yet, though I have removed the AIS and capped off all the ports with 3/8" vacuum caps. That's probably why I'm not getting any popping on deceleration.
Eventually, as money and time permits, I'll but some sort of big air kit and a fuel processor.
First off, those sound FANTASTIC! And for black pipes (black? On a motorcycle? never heard of such a thing everytime-always-everyone-and-their-brother jk man) they look pretty sharp!
Second, you're not getting popping because you are actually idling within spec! Good for you! I've bumped into a few guys with 900's now with aftermarket pipes dealing with popping. A couple of them I was able to convince to raise their idle back up to spec from the super-ultra-low (sounds good, but, it's not gettin' the oil where it needs to be) idle, and the popping went away!
I temporarily mounted an automotive tach to my bike (rigged it up just to work for a ride, wasn't waterproof or anything so I didn't spend any time getting it permanent). I found that below about 800 rpms I got serious decel popping. My theory is, the position of the throttle plate when you close the throttle but are still coasting doesn't allow the air/fuel mixture to be where it's supposed to be, causing the popping. The computer assumed the throttle is open to 950-1050 RPM's, when in fact it's only open to about 800 (or less) RPM's. I have mine set at 1,000 RPM's, split the difference, and I never hear popping.
"8 But God demonstrates his own love for us in this: While we were still sinners, Christ died for us."
Romans 5:8 (NIV)
2006 Vulcan 900 Classic LT "Couch-a-Saki/Mini-Bagger" Fire and Steel Highway Bars w/ pegs, Mustang seat, Harley-Davidson King TourPak, Shark 600W stereo, Rick's Stator, and more to come!
2011 Honda Shadow Aero 750 (Wife's) Memphis shades windshield, and one happy new rider!
Member of the Christian Motorcyclist Association
Patriot Guard Rider
But I was treated mercifully because I didn’t know what I was doing—didn’t know Who I was doing it against! Grace mixed with faith and love poured over me and into me. And all because of Jesus. Here’s a word you can take to heart and depend on: Jesus Christ came into the world to save sinners. I’m proof—Public Sinner Number One—of someone who could never have made it apart from sheer mercy.
I got the pipes back from RoadBurner early last week, and just this weekend I've had the time to really inspect them, and finally mount them on the bike.
I can tell you the coating is much sturdier , it is what I was expecting the first time. Originally, any incidental contact with any other metallic surface would leave a clear white scratch, and if you picked at it with your fingernail, the coating would come right off.
This time, that is not the case. I took off the end caps and checked the coating by scratching a small location that was not really visible. The coating did not come off at all.
The coating seems to be much more resilient to chips too. The first time I put the pipes on every single little bump would cause a chip to pop off. This time, no such thing. I even had the misfortune of dropping the front head pipe (yes, I'm a klutz and a moron, I know) and not a single chip popped off the coating. WAY different than the last time. All that happened was some small scratches that did not go through to the metal. I also discovered that some Hi-Temp BBQ grill paint in matte black blends in perfectly and covered the scratches completely!
I put them on the bike and went for a 15 minute ride. No chips or cracks at the end, and the pipes look pristine!
Here are some pics:
I also bought some SmartPartz Quiet Baffles to try and knock the loud down a bit, and here is where I have hit a snag. The end caps on the pipes are not the same size! The baffle fit perfectly into the front pipe, but the rear pipe end cap has a smaller ID that the front cap. The ID on the front cap is 2.13 inches, while the rear cap is 1.92 inches! I thought about grinding down the inner portion of the cap, but I figured that is not going to work since I don't have a conical shaped grinding stone, and I don't have a lathe either. Luckily there is a metal shop close by that has a lathe and will widen the ID for me. Should only cost me about $30 or so.
So far I am extremely pleased with the results. This time around the coating is exactly what I was expecting, and the folks at RoadBurner/DG Performance have been outstanding with their customer service.
Merry Christmas to all, and thank you everyone for your comments and insights! Learned a lot thanks to great comments here!
Heaven is where the cops are British, the mechanics are German, the cooks are italian, the lovers are French, and it's all organized by the Swiss.
Hell is where they cops are German, the cooks are British, the mechanics are French, the lovers are Swiss, and it's all organized by the Italians.
Yeah, I've seen this vid, but others have said it did work for them - so it's a toss up. Right now the pipes are just a bit too loud. I'm going to try the SmartPartz first, and if they don't work, then it's on to making my own. I have all the equipment necessary to make a set, it's just very tricky because of the curve and the dual pipe setup.
I'll take a DB measurement before the baffles and after and see if there is a noticeable difference.