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Old 11-13-2012, 11:02 AM   #51
Comanche
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Quote:
Originally Posted by a340driver View Post
Excellent !!

I'm always amazed that the manufactures can't come up with something like this "stock" it would only cost them pennies ..
They actually do manufacture for pennies on the dollar but they overprice everything because of corporate greed. I can't find the link offhand to the real cost of manufactured goods such as cell phones, electronics, car parts etc. but it's a good way to see how much they jack us for.
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Old 11-13-2012, 11:17 AM   #52
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Originally Posted by Seawolf_il View Post
I was originally going to put the LEDs as a ring around the circumference of the housing, but getting over the screw holes was problematic and this worked just fine.
Seawolf, what about cutting out a ring or flat plate out of aluminum that will sit just slightly recessed in the housing and so you can attach the LED's in the radial or circular pattern you originally intended? It could easily be made with aircraft snips and a drill so you can use the existing screw anchors of the rear of this housing as an anchor for the ring or plate and they will not interfere with assembly afterwards. I personally would go with the ring myself so that heat dispensation is best. Good idea dude.
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Old 11-17-2012, 05:13 PM   #53
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Originally Posted by XCR600 View Post
Vary nice
I had my signals completely apart when I replaced both on the left side. They were aftermarket stock replacement type's. I ended up just replacing the cups because the wire was way too long and the stalks didn't quite color match.
You have your's almost there with the clips removed. If you pry up on the tab of the bulb socket then on the sides you can work it out of the stalk, it's only friction fit.
Then you might be able to just tap into the wires going to the socket. Getting them to fit around the outside of the socket when it's pushed back in the stalk may be the challenge though.
Anyone able to get the stock sockets out like XCR600 showed back in Post #14? It is really tight and I am afraid of damaging something. It hasn't budged at all and I am too hesitant to give it much more.
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Old 11-18-2012, 06:40 PM   #54
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I want to put run turn on my new Nomad, but the tail lite is LED and the turn signals are bulbs and are Amber along with the actual turn signal lenses. If I could find red lenses that fit, I could get the tripple whamy and have the run turn I want.
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Old 11-19-2012, 05:41 PM   #55
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I just finished this mod on my Vulcan 900 Classic. Great idea Seawolf!

I did the two level running/brake light variant that Seawolf described in Post #25.

I used a 270 ohm resistor (since I had a pack intended for the fuel gage fix) and it works fine with excellent variation between the bright & dim levels.

For those that may be interested in doing this mod, but aren't electronics experts, you want a diode labeled as "blocking or "rectifying".
Do not use a "Zener" or "breakdown" diode as these have a different purpose.

I recommend using a 1N5817 since these have a very low forward voltage (0.45V) leaving the maximum remaining voltage for the brightest possible high (brake) intensity.

Don't forget, diodes are directional, so it won’t work if you install it backwards.

This eBay listing has a whole meter (enough for 5 of these mods) of the LED strip for $5.99 shipped.
You can also get 10 packs of resistors and diodes and meters of shrink tubing for $0.99 shipped on eBay, so get a couple friends together and you can do this mod for a couple bucks per person.

BTW, I was never able to get the 1156 socket out of the housing, so I had to drill a small hole in the bottom and run the wiring underneath. Not as elegant as I hoped, but not that big of a deal.
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Old 12-28-2012, 05:36 PM   #56
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Awesome.

I used similar red LEDs to fix my tail light. The PO had installed an integrated tail/brake/turn LED kit. But when I bought the bike the light was messing up. I discovered the PO did some soldering on the board to fix some problem and hosed it all up. My fix got me on the road long enough to enjoy the last few weeks of warm weather last month. Now I'm in the process of making my own integrated tail/brake/turn LED board from scratch.
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Old 12-28-2012, 05:53 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diamond Jim View Post
Awesome.

I used similar red LEDs to fix my tail light. The PO had installed an integrated tail/brake/turn LED kit. But when I bought the bike the light was messing up. I discovered the PO did some soldering on the board to fix some problem and hosed it all up. My fix got me on the road long enough to enjoy the last few weeks of warm weather last month. Now I'm in the process of making my own integrated tail/brake/turn LED board from scratch.
if it turns out good. you might have to make me one too!
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Old 01-27-2013, 09:26 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Svenpup View Post
I just finished this mod on my Vulcan 900 Classic. Great idea Seawolf!

I did the two level running/brake light variant that Seawolf described in Post #25.

I used a 270 ohm resistor (since I had a pack intended for the fuel gage fix) and it works fine with excellent variation between the bright & dim levels.

For those that may be interested in doing this mod, but aren't electronics experts, you want a diode labeled as "blocking or "rectifying".
Do not use a "Zener" or "breakdown" diode as these have a different purpose.

I recommend using a 1N5817 since these have a very low forward voltage (0.45V) leaving the maximum remaining voltage for the brightest possible high (brake) intensity.

Don't forget, diodes are directional, so it won’t work if you install it backwards.

This eBay listing has a whole meter (enough for 5 of these mods) of the LED strip for $5.99 shipped.
You can also get 10 packs of resistors and diodes and meters of shrink tubing for $0.99 shipped on eBay, so get a couple friends together and you can do this mod for a couple bucks per person.

BTW, I was never able to get the 1156 socket out of the housing, so I had to drill a small hole in the bottom and run the wiring underneath. Not as elegant as I hoped, but not that big of a deal.
I just finished the mod on my 96 500ltd. Only thing that stumped me was the diodes, I got the diodes but they didn't vary the brightness any. I got the ones you recommended svenpup but wasn't able to get any light variation, even after putting three in succession. Either way I'm happy with the running light set up. Great idea seawolf!
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Old 01-27-2013, 09:47 AM   #59
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Diodes are directional electrical flow devices, not resistance devices. You need resistors to drop the available voltage for the running lights and full voltage for brake lights.
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Old 04-23-2013, 11:17 AM   #60
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Thanks for the props, everyone. Now that the bike is out of storage...I am back on the forum

Quote:
Seawolf, what about cutting out a ring or flat plate out of aluminum that will sit just slightly recessed in the housing and so you can attach the LED's in the radial or circular pattern you originally intended?
A good idea, though there isn't much to "mount" it in there. It would have to be hollow in the middle to allow for the turn-bulb to do its job, and removable to swap that bulb if it dies. But yes, that would give me the 'halo ring' look I originally wanted. Now having it installed the way I did it, I dont mind it at all.

Quote:
If I could find red lenses that fit, I could get the tripple whamy and have the run turn I want.
Actually, you don't need red lenses. Red LEDs will shine through the amber lens just fine. My picture in post #1 has amber lenses installed. You could also simply swap the amber bulb for a red one. It will shine red all the time but red blinking signals are legal.

Quote:
Now I'm in the process of making my own integrated tail/brake/turn LED board from scratch.
Just my recommendation: Use SMD5050 LEDs. They are tri-emitter, wide angle, and very bright for their size.


Quote:
Only thing that stumped me was the diodes, I got the diodes but they didn't vary the brightness any.
Bear is correct...you need the resistor as well. The Diode will only drop the voltage by 0.7 volts. that makes a 14V system to 13.3V...you want to drop it to more like 10V. You do that by also adding the resistor.
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