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Old 11-15-2012, 07:07 PM   #1
Phil in Maine
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Default Exhaust studs

Are all 4 exhaust studs the same on the 800? I know a lot of you have but after market exhausts. What success or horror stories do you have with getting those funky allen nuts removed? The ones on the front cylinder on the bike are decently rusted, the rear ones are not OEM and seem to be some random bolts.

I'd like to put new OEM studs and nuts on, both for appearance and to be able to possibly replace the exhaust at some point in the future.

Thoughts?

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Old 11-15-2012, 07:26 PM   #2
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So Phil, are your headers stock? If so remove the heat guards. Also remove the air box. Front stud /front cylinder is accessible. Rear stud / front cylinder - better with airbox out the way:


Rear stud / rear jug - tight but ok. Front stud / rear cylinder - reverse the allen wrench and use extension bar:


Allen wrench [8mm]:


All 4 studs are the same.

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Old 11-15-2012, 07:56 PM   #3
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USE PENITRATING OIL!!!!! Let them soak any again. Had one break off on me. Ended up pulling the motor to get to it to get it out. Luckily it broke off about a 1/4" outside the head. Had to borrow a set of easyouts from a friend of my brother that goes on the outside of the broken stud or bolt. tap it a couple times and it came right out. Had to pull motor because was no room to get wrench on the remover and turn it. Remember also the stud is steel and the head is aluminum. Guess witch one will be damage first, and cost much more. Dont be affraid to oil repeatedly!!
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Old 11-15-2012, 09:28 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rick View Post
USE PENITRATING OIL!!!!! Let them soak any again. Had one break off on me. Ended up pulling the motor to get to it to get it out. Luckily it broke off about a 1/4" outside the head. Had to borrow a set of easyouts from a friend of my brother that goes on the outside of the broken stud or bolt. tap it a couple times and it came right out. Had to pull motor because was no room to get wrench on the remover and turn it. Remember also the stud is steel and the head is aluminum. Guess witch one will be damage first, and cost much more. Dont be affraid to oil repeatedly!!
This is certainly my fear with the rusted ones. Having sheared 3 exhaust bolts on my last bike, I am not thrilled with that prospect again. I an suprised that the easy out worked well for you. I ended up having to drill mine out.

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Old 11-15-2012, 09:45 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil in Maine View Post
This is certainly my fear with the rusted ones. Having sheared 3 exhaust bolts on my last bike, I am not thrilled with that prospect again. I an suprised that the easy out worked well for you. I ended up having to drill mine out.

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My VN800B Classic doesn't have allen-head bolts. It has threaded studs instead and after looking at the OEM Manual I never could find what the torque specs are for the pipes. Do you know what the torque values are for the pipes? The flange-nuts that hold down the pipes have a wider gripping area and so maybe that's why the PO went that route but I don't know since that is how the bike came to me.

In the past, I have welded an extra bolt or nut while working on automobile heads or blocks as an "extension" to remove stud remnants (i.e. bolts with heads snapped off). It works for me and I don't have to do any major engine dis-assembly, drilling, EZ Outs, etc. but the drawback on a bike is the limited room so I can see how this will probably not work for you unless you are EXTREMELY CAREFUL and know how to weld. The penetrating oil works well also but barring that it they don't come out it's going to need some good old fashioned elbow grease and removal.

Also make sure to use ANTI-SEIZE for reassembly because it helps when you may have to mess with your exhaust pipes for any future maintenance, work or repair.
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Last edited by Comanche; 11-15-2012 at 10:55 PM.
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Old 11-15-2012, 09:54 PM   #6
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Yeah I wish I had a welder, as I took a welding class a few years ago. I would say that what you have isn't OEM.

I am sort of tempted to bring it to someone with a bit more experience and more importantly has the tools necessary.

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Old 11-15-2012, 10:56 PM   #7
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Interested in seeing what you do to fix the problem because it's depressing to be hard down and unable to ride. I'll be looking for your posts on this Phil.
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Old 11-16-2012, 06:45 AM   #8
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Well at this point its not really a problem, as I haven't touched them. My gut instinct is to just leave them be. The bike is already 13 years old so its not like I am going to own it forever. I guess it will just remain an ugly spot on the bike. My goal is to have the 800 for at least a few riding seasons and then move on to something much newer.

I will though get some new clamps for this slip ons.

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Old 11-16-2012, 02:10 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C50T-VN800B View Post
I would take it to a bike shop and have the exhaust gaskets replaced. Shouldn't be much and then the tough part would have already been done and you can install your pipes yourself.
Excellent idea, C50T. Let them do the hard work since they have the tooling to do it all the time and fast for the services they provide.

Do you know what the torque specs are for the exhaust bolts and nuts?
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Old 11-16-2012, 02:15 PM   #10
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Excellent idea, C50T. Let them do the hard work since they have the tooling to do it all the time and fast for the services they provide.

Do you know what the torque specs are for the exhaust bolts and nuts?
The only issue is the lack of very good bike places around here. There us a Kawasaki dealer, but I know they will be expensive. The OEM studs and nuts would be close to 70 or 80 bucks at dealer list price. The exhaust gaskets I am guessing are probably not too much. The labkr comes down to how cooperative the ones on there now are.

It's something to think about, and I will probably do it at some point in the future. It's funny how little flaws like that drive you crazy.

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