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Old 11-04-2012, 10:21 AM   #11
jp58
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I have the Commander 2 on the rear of my 11 Nomad and stock on the front. No wobble or any problems. Handles great. The oem front has over 17k on it and still has a bit more to go. I will stay with this combination. The oem rear only last 8k or less. I've only got about 1500 miles so far on the C2.
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Old 11-12-2012, 11:58 PM   #12
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No wonder you guys only get 38 mpg using that crap. It's not gasoline!
Isn't our gas pathetic enough without mixing more non-energy producing junk into it?
huh? I get mid-50's, and that's two up with hard bags and a tour pak! I've seen 62mpg out of my 900! The guys who get 38 get 38 because they lug the engine in town then do 90 on the freeway. Two things the 900 doesn't do efficiently!

I think my absolute WORST ever was mid 40's. That was on our honeymoon, dufflebags strapped to the bike, doing 85 on the freeway because I wanted to get to the next destination before dark and we had a few hundred miles to go, two up, etc.

And yes, the stuff works good I've poured a little on a rag to clean carbon off of throttle bodies, I use it as a fuel stabilizer on stored vehicles, and I've used it in the crankcase of my car when the top end gets noisy. A guy at church had a jeep with a L.O.U.D. rod knock, dumped a can of seafoam in the crankcase, couple hundred miles later that stuck lifter got unstuck!

Don't knock it 'til ya try it! I don't use it every tank of gas or anything like that. But as a general purpose cleaner, fuel stabilizer, carbon-cleaner, it works well. I think the only reason people DON'T like it, is so many people DO like it so they assume it must be a sham or all in their head!

Still don't get your comment though. Did you think we were using seafoam INSTEAD of gasoline? Man THAT would get expensive quick! And I don't think people use it as a 'performance enhancer', if they do they are ill informed. But it does clean fuel injectors /carbs and reduces carbon buildup inside the engine (which can cause hotspots and pinging, even with higher octane fuels!) I had a Ford with a 302 in it that didn't like to idle, but if I dumped a can of seafoam in the tank once every few months (when it started to idle rough again) it would smooth right out, got everything cleaned out.
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Old 11-13-2012, 06:51 AM   #13
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huh?.... A guy at church had a jeep with a L.O.U.D. rod knock, dumped a can of seafoam in the crankcase, couple hundred miles later that stuck lifter got unstuck!
You DO realize you're talking about two separate things here, don't you?
It also sounds as if this product was no longer made, we would all grind to a dead halt. Is it just me, or do countless millions never use any gas or oil additive, and just roll along happily for hundreds of thousands of trouble-free miles? Maybe it's the same people who don't read forums, so they don't know that Fram filters will destroy their engines, guaranteed!
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Old 11-13-2012, 08:03 AM   #14
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You DO realize you're talking about two separate things here, don't you?
It also sounds as if this product was no longer made, we would all grind to a dead halt. Is it just me, or do countless millions never use any gas or oil additive, and just roll along happily for hundreds of thousands of trouble-free miles? Maybe it's the same people who don't read forums, so they don't know that Fram filters will destroy their engines, guaranteed!
Oh no, I guess I didn't? What were you talking about?
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Old 11-13-2012, 10:51 AM   #15
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Oh no, I guess I didn't? What were you talking about?
Well, a rod knock occurs when there is a problem with the bearing clearance between the big end of the piston's connecting rod, and its crankshaft journal. It can usually be isolated to a particular cylinder by shorting the plug wire so the cylinder doesn't fire. The knock will be greatly reduced or eliminated without that cylinder firing.
A hydraulic valve lifter, which also may be known as a cam follower, or a hydraulic lash adjuster, is a device which keeps the valve train clearance at zero lash, but when the hydraulic unit "sticks", you'll get the traditional "valve tap" noise.
Yes, sometimes diluting your oil with a solvent like Seafoam or other petroleum distillates, can clean some crud or varnish out of a hydraulic lifter or lash adjuster; sometimes not.
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Old 11-13-2012, 12:27 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by pacomutt View Post
Well, a rod knock occurs when there is a problem with the bearing clearance between the big end of the piston's connecting rod, and its crankshaft journal. It can usually be isolated to a particular cylinder by shorting the plug wire so the cylinder doesn't fire. The knock will be greatly reduced or eliminated without that cylinder firing.
A hydraulic valve lifter, which also may be known as a cam follower, or a hydraulic lash adjuster, is a device which keeps the valve train clearance at zero lash, but when the hydraulic unit "sticks", you'll get the traditional "valve tap" noise.
Yes, sometimes diluting your oil with a solvent like Seafoam or other petroleum distillates, can clean some crud or varnish out of a hydraulic lifter or lash adjuster; sometimes not.
Ah, well I'm not a mechanic so excuse my terminology!

I'm with ya, I don't think it's a 'mechanic in a can' or end all cure all. But if I'm going to clean my throttle bodies or clear out a running but rough running carb'ed engine (in other words, something less than would need adjustment, rebuild, or a physical tear down or clean) then Seafoam (which is readily available) or a similar chemical is what I'm going to use. I can't deny the results I've had. I used to work at a hardware store where we sold lawn mowers, and every year people would tell us how they don't need to store them properly cuz 'I've been doing it for 500 years like this", which was okay with non-ethanol gas and non-'environmentally friendly' carbs. But anyway, they had a warranty and we honored the warranty in house. In the spring, they'd bring them back because they won't start. I would always check for spark and such to make absolute sure before I sent them back (We didn't do the repairs we took them to a shop to get done, but we paid for it. But I did do basic diagnostics before I did that in case it was something simple and they could get it back in an hour instead of a week). But 99% of the time, a little seafoam in the carb, and a little in the tank would get it going just fine. The seafoam in the carb cleared out the varnished ethanol fuel, and the seafoam in the tank 'stabilized' the fuel already in the tank. About a capful in each when dealing with a push lawn mower. The customers never came back (until the next spring, with the same problem, and the same story when I would say 'have you considered using a fuel stabilizer in the winter?' about how 'that's not the cause somethings wrong with it

There are absolutely a TON of products that can do this. But seafoam is on the shelf, relatively inexpensive, and does several things at the same time. It can keep fuel stabilized, it can trap moisture and make fuel that's going bad okay to burn again, it'll clean out gunk in a small carb, and in the case of older cars, it'll get carbon buildup off of the fuel injectors and keep it running smoothly, or dillute the oil and flush out things that are gumming up the works in the top end. My valves get noisy every several thousand miles, so I dump a can in the crankcase 500 miles before an oil change and they quiet up about 10 miles later, and then stay quiet for another several thousand miles. 220,000 miles on her. It would probably still run just fine if I hadn't done that, or used a different product. But it's worth $7 every couple of months to quiet it down.
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Old 11-13-2012, 01:30 PM   #17
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A while back, there was a thread where a guy had used STP in his engine. When I recommended he flush it out by diluting the oil with a petroleum distillate, or kerosene, I was blasted as a know-nothing by some idiot, and while defending myself, I was kicked off of here for ten days. Now, it seems like everyone wants to run good, expensive oil, then dilute it with some solvent.
Well, do as you wish. I will do the same.
BTW, I use Sta-Bil which is a fuel stabilizer over the winter. Otherwise, no additives for anything else.
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