A question about cooling systems and VV heat

[Napom]

Originally Posted by Kim

My 20011 gets hot enough to almost burn my right thigh.It even got up to 4/5ths election day in VA outside temp was 42. Kawasaki told me they are aware of this and have a fix for it $399.00 and they don't cover it under warranty even though the 2012 comes with it It is a kit you install for air redirection called KAMS -Kawasaki air management system.The tech was very rude and condescending also didn't give a shit what i thought. I'm selling mine on principle. I will go back to my 2003 classic. the best bike i ever owned.

I must have gotten lucky - my 2011 doesn't get overly hot - Yeah its runs the guage to the right but never into the red and its comfortable to ride . . . Thinking of wrapping the pipes this winter, but I don't feel I HAVE to . . .definately don't need the KAMS . . . .

Beautiful riding out by you - I'll be blowing through this weekend - find a bike that works for you, and find a dealer that does . . . but before I go sell and take the loss - at least try spending $50 and an hour's time and wrap dem puppies . . .

[cannonballs]

dozrtravlin
has any one actually fitted a proper diital temp guage in where the sensor sits and read it
can buy a cheap guage from autobarn and put in for a ride
i have a inferred temp reader but im up in queensland sunnycoast ,only a good ride away
also 2010 voyager gets 3/4 on the guage at idle but drops to just below half once moving

[Dozrtravlin]

Originally Posted by cannonballs

dozrtravlin
has any one actually fitted a proper diital temp guage in where the sensor sits and read it
can buy a cheap guage from autobarn and put in for a ride
i have a inferred temp reader but im up in queensland sunnycoast ,only a good ride away
also 2010 voyager gets 3/4 on the guage at idle but drops to just below half once moving

Your lucky, I' m about 4 hours south of you but apart from winter I've never seen the gauge running that low. The manufacturers of liquid intelligence are giving me 4 litres gratis, in case there is something wrong with the batch I have in it now. When that comes we're going to do a slow fill and checks as per the book, then try the digital thermometer to see just what is going on. My dealer spoke at length to Kawa tech support and they suggest the same. They also believe that my bike just runs hot, but within tolerance. So I told the dealer to make lots of notes because if it blows up I'll be chasing them.

[cannonballs]

i have changed exhaust and it made a massive difference in power but do have a hesitation around 3000 rpm ,looking at putting a fuel management system on which should cure that and reduce engine heat as we have a lot of crappy fuel her in ozz
you may even find fuel has a bit to do with yours

[truckie]

Dozrtravlin have you sorted out the heat issue problem ,I live in the northern tablelands if you need some help,swapping of parts, temp reader etc

[Dozrtravlin]

Originally Posted by truckie

Dozrtravlin have you sorted out the heat issue problem ,I live in the northern tablelands if you need some help,swapping of parts, temp reader etc

Thanks mate still waiting for the new coolant, so hopefully this week sometime. I'll keep you in mind

[Dozrtravlin]

Well I changed the coolant and rechecked everything. if there is an air blockage I'm damned if I know where.

That being said the temps are more under control now running between the 4th and 5th mark. What I did notice was that the gauge ran up to fan on then cooled down till cut off as you would expect but on the second run up to fan on, it stayed there, not coming down just creeping higher until it running between the 4 th and 5 th marks closer to the 5 th mark.

This occurrs at idle or when travelling, so once hot it satys hot, so I'm inclined to think the new thermostat is faulty.

So agree or disagree?

And

As I know little to nothing about thermostats hot cold or indifferent are there thermostat options that fit the VV eg to help it run cooler?

Thanks

[cannonballs]

just had the gear sensor for the dash replaced under warranty as it had a mind of its own ,
they had to drain the cooling system and lost a bit of oil
guess what now i have your problem running 3/4 on the guage and hard to get it to come down lucky to get to half way on the open road
taking it back tomorrow to see if something went wrong

[Dozrtravlin]

Originally Posted by cannonballs

just had the gear sensor for the dash replaced under warranty as it had a mind of its own ,
they had to drain the cooling system and lost a bit of oil
guess what now i have your problem running 3/4 on the guage and hard to get it to come down lucky to get to half way on the open road
taking it back tomorrow to see if something went wrong

Most are saying a air blockage somewhere but my question is where?

Both the dealer and I have followed the dealers instructions on refilling and bleeding, as well as Kawasaki's in their service manual and now every time I open the cap the fluid is right to the top where its supposed to be. I still get a lot of paint flakes out of the system and wonder if somehow these have gummed up the thermostat.

The dealer put a new thermostat in but I'm beginning to think it may be faulty. When the thermostat is operating correctly I don't have a problem, but once the gauge gets past the thermostat on mark the second time up it goes. I'd appreciate any info your dealer might be able to give. Mines at a loss and I'm just throwing good money after bad but at least now mine isn't going into the red anymore.

[Dozrtravlin]

For your dealers info Kawasaki tech support has now told two different dealer I've been too that they believe Kawasaki didn't calibrate the gauges correctly and we have more of a visual then actual problem with temps. But that still doesn't explain the gauges resting very near the so called boiling points.
I also found this information
Care must be taken to ensure that all air has been bled from the system and in many cases the bleeding procedure will need to be carried out three or four times to remove all air. Incorrect coolants or coolant mixtures can also cause localised boiling in the engine and create air bubbles that will travel and cause the thermostat to operate incorrectly. If the engine has had major work performed check all engine earths and body earths as one may have been overlooked during the reassembly process. These earths can cause incorrect temperature gauge readings or cause the temperature sender unit or electric fan switch to operate incorrectly.

I'm not sure how to check all earths or how else to get Any residual air bubbles out. Any one got any ideas?