A question about cooling systems and VV heat

[Bubba in TX]

Dozr...

Wow... that really is a stumper.

If you are getting air lock, after a very very short time the engine would get hot as hell as circulation stops while the pump cavitates if in fact the pump is actually cavitating. But you can get air lock in parts of the system even while the pump is pumping away too.

Sounds like you need to know two things. What the actual water temp is in the engine at the sensor when you go into the red, and at the same time if water is flowing at the sensor. The only way I can see doing it, is yanking the sensor outand see if coolant comes out. But if it is air locked at the time, you will have just relieved the air lock by doing that and coolant will probably fly out..... A catch 22.

Does it ever come back out of the red while you are riding it?

I am still betting on faulty sensor system. Or least I am hoping that is all it is....

[Dozrtravlin]

Originally Posted by Bubba in TX

Dozr...

Wow... that really is a stumper.

If you are getting air lock, after a very very short time the engine would get hot as hell as circulation stops while the pump cavitates if in fact the pump is actually cavitating. But you can get air lock in parts of the system even while the pump is pumping away too.

Sounds like you need to know two things. What the actual water temp is in the engine at the sensor when you go into the red, and at the same time if water is flowing at the sensor. The only way I can see doing it, is yanking the sensor outand see if coolant comes out. But if it is air locked at the time, you will have just relieved the air lock by doing that and coolant will probably fly out..... A catch 22.

Does it ever come back out of the red while you are riding it?

I am still betting on faulty sensor system. Or least I am hoping that is all it is....

So am I Bubba, But all of the sensor system has been checked and re checked. Hopefully in the next week or so I can get it checked with the Infrared Thermometer to see what the overall picture is.

Everyone who has looked at it now is of the opinion that the engine and cooling system is fine it is just something in the sensor area that goes haywire, after a period of operation.

The temp holds perfectly until about 25 miles. then it starts to climb. Then the revs and distance and ambient temp dictate where above the gauge will sit. Once at that level whether near the red line or around the 5th line It will not come down until I have stopped for a while or get into a slower area where the revs get back down to the 2000 area.

Is there anything in the sensor wiring that could have been moved into a hot area giving false readings?

Doe anyone know if the ECU receives the reading from the sensor first then shoots it off to the gauge?

[Bubba in TX]

That kind of problem usually is something simple, outrageous, but simple....

[Dozrtravlin]

Originally Posted by Bubba in TX

That kind of problem usually is something simple, outrageous, but simple....

I agree and I'm getting my size 10's ready to kick myself for not seeing the answer sooner once we find out what it is.

the dealer is onto Kawa Tech support chasing up the idea of the ECU as well as anything else they can think of so I'll keep you posted.

[rusty360]

I did not see it but have you changed the tempurature sensor? Maybe it reads ok but after 25 miles and heat of the motor and everything it starts to change how it reads the coolant temp. Maybe something internal is going haywire in the sensor. If the infared tells you all is ok I would change the sensor and see what happens.

[Kim]

My 20011 gets hot enough to almost burn my right thigh.It even got up to 4/5ths election day in VA outside temp was 42. Kawasaki told me they are aware of this and have a fix for it $399.00 and they don't cover it under warranty even though the 2012 comes with it It is a kit you install for air redirection called KAMS -Kawasaki air management system.The tech was very rude and condescending also didn't give a shit what i thought. I'm selling mine on principle. I will go back to my 2003 classic. the best bike i ever owned.

[Dozrtravlin]

Originally Posted by rusty360

I did not see it but have you changed the tempurature sensor? Maybe it reads ok but after 25 miles and heat of the motor and everything it starts to change how it reads the coolant temp. Maybe something internal is going haywire in the sensor. If the infared tells you all is ok I would change the sensor and see what happens.

I checked my invoice's again and the sensor was changed, but I agree I'll get them to change it again.

[Bubba in TX]

Kim

Have you wrapped your pipes? If not do it.... the single best thing you can do. I dont need the KAMS kit now on my 2011.... After I get settled down after my move I want to ceramic coat them AND wrap them.

[Dozrtravlin]

Originally Posted by Bubba in TX

Kim

Have you wrapped your pipes? If not do it.... the single best thing you can do. I dont need the KAMS kit now on my 2011.... After I get settled down after my move I want to ceramic coat them AND wrap them.

I did wrap them and this made the bike great from the riders and passenger point of view but it still didn't solve the problem. So to let more heat dissipate via the exposed pipes I removed it and put the Kams kit on. Both methods gave excellent results as far as radiated heat, but unfortunately my problem remains

[twowheeladdict]

Originally Posted by Bubba in TX

Kim

Have you wrapped your pipes? If not do it.... the single best thing you can do. I dont need the KAMS kit now on my 2011.... After I get settled down after my move I want to ceramic coat them AND wrap them.

IMO, those who should get the KAMS kit are those who find themselves riding from traffic light to traffic light the majority of their ride. If the Fan doesn't come on, the front part of the KAMS is not necessary. I wouldn't mind having the back part though my sheepskin helps with that pretty well.