Previous Owner's Problems Inherited

[sfair]

I think that you are jumping ahead of yourself with testing the reg/rect.
Have to make sure the basics are in place first.
See post number 9.

[pacomutt]

Originally Posted by Comanche

PacoMutt, what is the procedure to bring the piston up part way on the exhaust stroke so the exhaust valve is open?

A really quick and dirty way would be to place the shop-vac hose tightly against the exhaust port, and if it doesn't unload the motor (like holding your hand over the end of the hose), then the exhaust valve is already open.
Since you don't have a compressor, and if you don't want to use some canned air or similar, just have the plugs removed, use the shop-vac on the port, and crank the engine over a couple of times. There won't be enough debris left behind to cause any concern.
Don't even think about pulling the head; not that you could do it with the engine in the bike anyway.

[Comanche]

Right, PacoMutt. I wouldn't even think about removing the head for something this quick and easy since removing the engine would have to come first and that's even more overkill.

SFair, the battery is new and fully charged and has already been load tested from the store where I bought it. That's why I moved on to the REC/REG and will keep going unless you can suggest some reasons why there is NO JOY coming to the left side of the bike? However, I would really like to learn how to load test at home so please fire away at your discretion.

When I began the thread I stated all that was checked and worked at the time so without taking up room please read that and see if there is also anything else you can think of. Thanks guys I appreciate it.

[Comanche]

PacoMutt, I got lost on the "unload the motor like holding your hand over the end of the hose" part. Trying to imagine that but do you mean the way vacuum pressure works when simply placing a hand onto a vacuum's hose?

[pacomutt]

Originally Posted by Comanche

PacoMutt, I got lost on the "unload the motor like holding your hand over the end of the hose" part. Trying to imagine that but do you mean the way vacuum pressure works when simply placing a hand onto a vacuum's hose?

I was talking strictly about the vacuum, not the motorcycle's engine. If you plug the end of the vacuum's hose, the electric motor speeds up, because when the vacuum cleaner is not moving air, the motor "unloads".
If you put the hose tight against the port, and the exhaust valve is still closed, the vacuum will speed up. Turn the motorcycle's engine over until the vacuum starts pulling air thru the spark plug hole and the vacuum cleaner sound returns to normal. You're just trying to vacuum out the cylinder through the exhaust valve port, but the valve has to be open to do that.

[markstep]

Don't wish to delay the thread, but I thank you for the explanation of cleaning the cylinder. A poor day when you don't learn something!

[sfair]

Ok, if you could do this:

1. Take voltage reading across battery.
2. Turn on key. Take another reading.
3. Leave key on for five minutes. After time up, take another reading.

Post back with 3 readings.

Do your running lights work?

[Comanche]

Originally Posted by sfair

Ok, if you could do this:

1. Take voltage reading across battery.
2. Turn on key. Take another reading.
3. Leave key on for five minutes. After time up, take another reading.

Post back with 3 readings.

Do your running lights work?

Thanks SFair. Here are the battery readings:

1. 12.81V
2. 12.71V
3. 12.63V

After 1/2 hour the battery recovered on it's own to 12.79V.

Taillight/license plate light works but no brake light. The PO removed all other running lights so there are only the receptacle leads remaining.

Here are the REC/REG readings:

1. 1.8
2. 1.7
3. 1.7
4. 0
5. 0
6. 0
7. 0
8. 0
9. 0
10. 1.8
11. 1.7
12. 1.7

Still have no idea what the readings mean according to the attached OEM charts or what the infinity sign, 1/2 scale or less and the x10 or x100 for Resistance range mean as the meter I'm using is self-ranging and I can also adjust it manually but I'm allowing it to auto-range. Try to learn here so please explain. Thanks SFair.

[sfair]

The reg/rect has no bearing on the bike starting or not.
Is that still the problem...push start switch and nothing?

Post back.

[Comanche]

Originally Posted by sfair

The reg/rect has no bearing on the bike starting or not.
Is that still the problem...push start switch and nothing?

Post back.

Yes, of course, SFair, the REC/REG helps on recharging side and not starting side but the only reason I am checking left side components and connections is because there is no flow of current on the left side of the bike like I had originally stated. I will double check connections to see if there is something not connected correctly.

However, the data seems to point to a bad REC/REG if I am not mistaken with its interpretation. The reason I had slight trouble understanding the way the chart is written is because Kawasaki says the OEM Manual is translated from Japanese into English and because of that sometimes the referent(s) are lost in translation so I had to look in other chapters for similar meanings with respect to NO READING, INFINITY, etc.

NO JOY from the Start Switch and it will not turn the bike over. I also don't have power coming to the left side which would be visually evident if the small red LED light that was installed by the PO on the left side cover was illuminated to light up the Ignition Switch area at night.

Attached are two more shots from my camera phone that show the testing procedure for the Starter Relay in the OEM Manual. It only shows a poor diagram of the relay and connection for the battery and meter so I'm having a problem deciphering how to connect and test it so please let me know the best way to connect and test the Starter Relay. All I can tell at this point is that the 30A Main Fuse is OK. Thanks SFair.