Chain and sprocket change

Keithdb · 11-01-2012, 04:24 AM

Well, I am about to take on a chain and sprocket change on my 05 800 Classic. I have not done this before. I need all the advice I can get. Please help. How difficult is it? Any tricks to it? Thanks!

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C50T-VN800B · 11-01-2012, 05:09 AM

Jack up the bike and make sure that it is in neutral.

Remove the cotter pin that holds the nut on the rear wheel. Loosen the chain adjusters on the rear wheel and push the tire all the way forward. Remove the cotter pin or clip pin from the flat piece of steel that is attached to the brake housing and remove the bolt. Remove the bolt from the brake adjuster rod and use a wire tie to hold the rod up out of your way.

Put some strips of tape on the side of the wheel that the brake goes in to so that it holds the brakes in to the hub and on the side that the sprocket is on. The side pieces that have the brakes and the sprocket will fall out once you pull the wheel if they are not taped on. The spacer on the sprocket side will fall of when you pull the wheel. Make a note of which way the tapered end goes in before you pull the wheel.

Remove the axle bolt and slide the chain off of the sprocket. Pull the rear wheel and install the new sprocket.

Put the wheel back on and slide the old chain on to the sprocket. Reattach the lever that goes to the brake housing as well as the brake rod.

If it's a riveted chain you will have to grind the rivets off the front of the chain facing you. If it is a clip type you will have to remove the master link.

Whichever one it is sit the link on the rear sprocket while you are doing the work. push out the master link or the link that you ground off with a nail set punch. Attach the new chain to the old chain on the top using the new master link but don't make a permanent connection just use the link without the face. Pull the old chain from the rear lower section of the bike while keeping tension on the top part of the chain. You should be able to pull the chain all the way through so that the 2 ends of the new chain end up on the sprocket teeth. Once the new chain is pulled through put the master link in to the 2 ends and either install the clip or the rivets. Adjust the chain tension so that you have between 1 and 1.25" of free play in the chain. Tighten the axle nut to 72 foot pounds.

C50T-VN800B · 11-01-2012, 05:19 AM

Sorry I forgot you also have to remove the speedometer cable from the right side of the rear wheel. There is an Allen head screw that hold it in to the housing. Remove the screw and pull out on the cable. Make sure to reinstall the cable when you put the wheel back on.

whoaru99 · 11-01-2012, 07:24 AM

Probably should change the front sprocket too if that wasn't in the original plan.

I prefer and use only rivet master links, but many use the clip style. If you use the clip style it's my understanding you want to put the clip so the closed end points the same direction as the chain moves.

C50T-VN800B · 11-01-2012, 09:16 AM

That's correct.

I use a clip type. If you install the chain in the method that I stated above then the closed end of the clip would face the front of the bike when installing the master link.

If you look at the chain from the side the chain rotates counter clockwise. So when the master link is on top the closed end would be facing the front. If the master link is on the bottom the closed end would face the rear.

Keithdb · 11-01-2012, 07:52 PM

Thanks for that info. But I need tips about the front sprocket. I am a little concerned about what happens when I take the cover off.

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davemn · 11-05-2012, 07:45 PM

Take the cover off. Use a socket and an air impact wrench. Put the bike in gear and put the rear brake on tightly. Let it rip. Should come right off. Its NOT a reverse thread nut. Normal thread. Good luck.

griffjo · 11-06-2012, 11:02 AM

A clip type master link is OK, but a rivet type is better (read stronger).

However, EK now makes a "screw-type" Master Link that is as strong as a rivet & doesn't require a rivet tool that you only need every 30,000 miles. Just an 8mm wrench - it was easy and foolproof.

At around 8,000 miles I swapped the OEM 17/42 sprockets with a set of 18/40's. OEM 112 link chain still fit fine and got a nice 10% RPM drop. Best mod I've done.

XCR600 · 11-07-2012, 06:37 AM

The front sprocket has a washer under the nut , it will be bent over one side of the nut to lock it . You will first need to bend that edge flat before you try to remove the nut. A hammer & punch should work for this. This nut can be quite stubborn by the way. Don't worry about the cover , one fastener and it slides out , it's just a cover so nothing is going to fall out or become disengaged.

red_leg · 12-31-2012, 08:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by C50T-VN800B

If it's a riveted chain you will have to grind the rivets off the front of the chain facing you. If it is a clip type you will have to remove the master link.

If its an endless chain like the stock one, you can also use bolt cutters if you have no other tools for breaking the chain. Just wear some eye protection when you do as this isn't the safest way to do this.