Turco, thanks - that is good news. I think the bottles I got are atually labeled "V-Twin Racing Oil". It comes out of the bottle an interesting color - kind of clear with a greenish tint to it. The dealer offers to do free analysis of the used oil, so if I get ambitious I might take in a sample at around 4,000 miles to see what the test results say.
No worries. I have been getting pretty much dealer cost for the auto version of Supreme 9000 5w-30 from a great distributor in AZ for the last several years. I used to live there and have family there so once or twice a year I am there, I grab a case. My truck oil change is almost once a year as I put about 6000-8000 miles a year on my truck since I commute almost everyday with my mc.
I am checking with a Schaeffer dealer to see what kind of deal he will give me. If it is over $10 /quart including everything, then I might just stick with Mobil 1 which works fine. I already have 3 quarts of Mobil 20w-50 V-Twin and 6 quarts of Mobil 10w-40 Racing oil.
I tried K&N204 ($11-$12) for filter but the $7 Hi-Flo 303 works just as good.
I only paid $4-something per quart - I know it was under $5, so seemed like a good deal if it works well.
For the Schaeffer Supreme 9000 Full Synthetic 5w-50 oil? That is a steal man!
If you are not pulling my leg, then it is really an amazing price. Even the crappiest dino mc oil cost like $4-$5 /quart and cheapest synthetic oil in stores is like $10!
The Dealer/distributor guy is going to be bringing over 6 quarts today at $6 /quart which I thought was still very reasonable. If it is anywhere near as good as the one I use in my truck, that will be the oil I will keep using in all my bikes, period.
I used the Schaeffer in my mazdaspeed6 as it was the best according to bob the oil guy test. But after I did the oil analysis Blackstone lab has advised me to change to anything else as the oil contained VERY hi numbers of cooper. They thought it may be the additives fighting with my copper parts in the engine and washing some away at rapid way.
Just my 2c.
Never did OA on my bike so no idea. The oil data were impressive on the Schaeffers line of oils.
Plus looking at the line I could not find any of their oils to be made for motorcycles. Maybe you should contact them to make sure all of their additives are ok for the wet clutch.
They do not OK any other oil types or grades, except the 5w-50 which is actually recommended for wet clutch MCs. I was going to test it in my Vmax but I sold it so, I will have to wait for the Vulcan's oil change to see.
Yours might be an isolated case as it couldn't come up as the "best oil" during the testing of an oil expert yet had high contents of copper, I don't know seems really strange to me.
To each there own. I have run Kawasaki 20-50 since my Nomad was new. 70,000+ miles and I've not even had to do the dreaded cam chain extenders so many others have had to go to so much earlier on the 1500's. I change my oil between 3-3500 miles. Since these bikes run a wet clutch I won't go longer because of the clutch material that is going into the oil. Also I can tell the difference in how the bike shifts after about 2500-3000 miles depending on how those miles are run.
bobistheoilguy.com is the place to go for oil discussions and confusion. You have to just accumulate as much information as possible and make your own decisions. My religion only allows use of full synthetic oil in my internal combustion engines, except for break-in. There are fundamentalists who insist you should only use the lowest cost dinosaur oil. Then you can get into the fight over the orange can of death.
2010 Vulcan 900 Classic LT, 2007 SeaRay 185, nine children, one wife.
I'm like Turco. I use Schaffer in my four wheel vehicles but did not know they made bike oil. I asked the rep I buy from about using it in my bike but he was concerned about an inhibiter in the oil that may not be good for a hydraulic clutch. I would do some research before I put it in my Vulcan.