Hello
Im owner of EN500A (first registration in 1997). Today i wanted to warm it up (winter is comming), and Ive noticed it works only on one cylinder.
Its third time since July when i have this problem. Change of spark plugs helped but problem is back. Today helped swap spark plug for previous one (btw. changed before because of the same issue). Its always the same cylinder.
I found some similar threads but i have trouble with understand "colloquial" words.
Thanks in advance.
What 'color' is the plug? Black & sooty means the mixture is 'rich' suggesting a problem with the carburetor or air filter. If it is severe enough it requires correction.
What spark plugs are you running? If they are DR9EA try going one range hotter with DR8EA. I had similar issues early in Hidalgo's life and since switching to the DR8EA have had no spark plug related issues.
I got the same problem but my spark plug looks like new .
The cylinder which won’t work is cold
But when I change ignition coil from left to right the cylinder start working , so I put new coil and is the same . One cylinder is not working
Thank You for Your reply.
I have older version than You. Mine looks like that: Click.
So I have DR8ES plugs. Air filter was changed in July.
Plugs really looks black, soothy and... wet just after remove from cylinder.
So its looks like something with carbuteror?
I cleaned both carbs on my 2009 Kawasaki Vulcan 500 and replace both coil packs is still runs only on one cylinder until you get up in the RPM I think it might be to CDI but I really don't know and I don't want to guess on it cuz it quite expensive would love to know what's going on please
Maybe there is a cheaper alternative you can use as "preventive maintenance" once the carbs are cleaned.Pay particular attention to the pilot jets as they tend to get plugged & cause your symptions.
Blaine that seafoam is a replacement for disassembly or it should be used after disassembly and cleaning?
I was looking for alternative but with no result for now.
Jets should be fine- one was plugged but when i gave bike to synchronize "carbs" mechanic cleaned it (with a wire because suppresed air and some other methods couldnt help). I dunno which jet it was but issue from thread occured before.
Blaine that seafoam is a replacement for disassembly or it should be used after disassembly and cleaning?
I was looking for alternative but with no result for now.
It is used as preventive maintenance to keep carbs & combustion chambers/valves clean before there is a problem.I use it once a month or so to keep things clean & running properly.
Plug mis-fire can cause sooty/wet conditions too.
Check for fat blue spark on the offending cylinder, in fact, both.
[...]
Post back with your results.
It is used as preventive maintenance to keep carbs & combustion chambers/valves clean before there is a problem.I use it once a month or so to keep things clean & running properly.
Thanks. So first ill try to clean "carbs" and later i will look for something to prevent
Now when I know where should I start to look, I just need to find some time to do this - Job and studies take all my time for now. Thank You for Your sugesstions
I always like to test the ignition system in a case like this first. It is EASY and CHEAP to do and rules in/out half of the equation in short order.
Using the recommended tester is the only way to put the system under load and check for poor spark. Using the old screwdriver or laying the sparkplug against the cylinder test is a good go/no go test (and risk ignitor punch through), but to check spark health, tester is what is required. It will point out low primary voltages, weak coils, wires, caps or ignitor. If the ignition system passes muster, then one can move on to the more expensive and time consuming remedies.
What more could you ask for $10 and 5 minutes of time?
pacomutt because I had plugs "A" then i swapped them for new plugs "B" when engine started work on one cylinder. About a month later i have the same issue and still have plugs "A" in garage so a decide to check them out and... both cylinders works.
The old plugs probably worked because they had time to dry off. And they probably got wiped off and cleaned up too. I would follow sfair's advice I would rather test the ignition system before I tore in to the carbs and found out that they were not the problem in the first place.
I do not know anything about your mechanical background. I am just a back yard shade tree kind of guy no "formal" training just a lot of trial and error and reading books to learn stuff. But if you plug is not firing then you probably are not smoking any and getting a strong raw gas small. But if the plug is hitting and you get getting black smoke out of the exhaust then you probably have carb problem. Can you tell us that.
oops! yes I meant "smell" not "small". Caught me on a typo. I am still leaning toward testing the ignition first just to rule it out.
I am not familiar with the 500 engines, but if you can swap plug wires or if the coils are interchangeable and swap them around and the other cylinder acts up then you know you have a problem within the ignition system. Just a thought.
*EDIT* It won't completely rule out the Ignition system but it will back to the coils
I am just fishing for details that might help possibly lead us to a more direct answer.
I'll try to swap coils (if it will be possible) in Sunday. But last time issue appeared after two weeks without starting engine - usually I do this more often but had a lot of work and studies at the weekend. So it can take more time to make a proper diagnosis.
I know this won't be sfair approved, but I used to have an old Suzuki 550 inline four banger. When started, it frequently wouldn't fire on one or two of its cylinders. To get a spark "hot" enough to fire the plugs, I would partially pull the plug wire up on the plug's insulator about a half-inch or so, so that the spark had to make the jump from the wire terminal to the spark plug's terminal. With the engine running, I could pull up on the wire until I could hear the spark snapping inside the boot. The cylinder would immediately "catch" using this method. The spark at the plug's business end was then hot enough to fire the cylinder. I'd then reseat the wire and be on my way. I think maybe a larger gap on the plugs would accomplish the same thing.
I never knew if the added gap caused the spark to actually be "hotter", as in more voltage produced, but this method certainly worked!
Pacomutt, you know no even ask the guy if he checked the gap on his plugs. I mean that would be simple to check. I always check mine when I install them.
Lets try this again. If you swap the Coils and the problem is on the other cylinder then your problem is in the coil. But by doing this it will only test back to your coil. If the same problem is still happening then you either have a problem on back in your ignition box or in the wires from the box to the coil.
The possibility of it being carburetor issue is still on the table. I just like ruling out the easy things first.
I would resist "swapping things around" without troubleshooting first.
There is always the possibility of introducing a new problem when one swaps needlessly and then the real tail chasing begins.
You can always make a tester. I had a homemade one for years and it served me well. A couple of eyebolts threaded into two right angle brackets fastened to a piece of wood, some HT spark lead, a ground alligator clip with short wire and you are set.
Then you can compare spark side to side. One side, you can open the gap up to, say, 1/4" and get a nice spark, then the other side might look weak and yellow or not fire at all. Then, bingo, you are on to something. If both sides look the same, (good) then you can put the ignition system in the good column.
I would resist "swapping things around" without troubleshooting first.
There is always the possibility of introducing a new problem when one swaps needlessly and then the real tail chasing begins.
You can always make a tester. I had a homemade one for years and it served me well. A couple of eyebolts threaded into two right angle brackets fastened to a piece of wood, some HT spark lead, a ground alligator clip with short wire and you are set.
Then you can compare spark side to side. One side, you can open the gap up to, say, 1/4" and get a nice spark, then the other side might look weak and yellow or not fire at all. Then, bingo, you are on to something. If both sides look the same, (good) then you can put the ignition system in the good column.
Good point. I never thought about making one. I was just trying to offer a solution without purchasing anything. He sounded like he did not want to have to buy anything. The way I see it is If i have to buy/make a tool then I will have it for next time.
I can buy only tester similar to this one: Link. It's available in my country. But im not sure if with that kind of tester I'll be able to check quality of spark.
I'm almost sure the white smoke appears only when engine works on one cylinder.
Yes! Make one end moveable and you are in business.
I made one eyebolt end flat and the other pointed about the size of a sparkplug center electrode.
That drawing is far prettier than the unit I made years ago!
Thanks. Here is an updated one. It is easy when you have the software made for design work.
*EDIT*
Might want to turn the angle brackets the other direction so the bottom is pointing away from the bolt (electrode). Don't need spark jumping there instead of the bolt. Might interfere with the operation.
It took me some time but now I think I can say it was battery. After replace no name one with new Yuasa, engine starts on both cylinders even in colder days.
Thanks for Your support.
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