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Any Rotella T 15w-40 users?

35K views 87 replies 24 participants last post by  scootdog 
#1 ·
Not trying to start another oil war or anything. Just curious if any of you Vulcan owners are using this oil and if you're happy with it. It does carry the JASO MA spec.
 
#2 ·
15w40



I use Rotella T 15 /40 in my 04 , bike seems to like it fine. it gets really dirty looking, fast but thats because of the much higher detergents in series3 oils.
that means the engine should be cleaner inside???
gonna switch my 08 to it next change. Then ALL my engines , lawn mower to diesel P/U , will be 15w40.
 
#4 ·
I used it in my VN900 for about two weeks, beginning early last October when the weather began to cool. While using it my oil pressure gauge consistently read around 75 psi, even after riding 25 miles. The shop manual states that normal oil pressure should be 42.6 - 56.8 psi @4000rpm with the oil temp. at 90 degrees C./194 degrees F. I was concerned that the pressure was too high and could activate the oil pressure relief valve (I could not find the pressure at which that occurs in the shop manual), which could compromise lubrication. In an informal viscosity pour test the Rotella T had a noticeably higher viscosity than 10w - 40 oil. I drained it and replaced it with Castrol Four Stroke Motorcycle Oil 10w - 40 which also carries the JASO spec. and my oil pressure gauge now reads as specified by the shop manual.

Just my personal experience - no doubt other riders will have other opinions!
 
#5 ·
I wouldnt be too worried bout the relief valve,rule of thumb pressures for them run in excess of 100psi your readings just indicate that you have a strong pump and lower end engine bearings that are in excellent condition.
Im 40+yrs as a diesel tech, I dont recall seeing any catastrophic failures caused by excessive oil pressure. Some possible seal leakage , but even that is rare.
Id still prefer the extra detergent in Series 3 oils. I have wondered about foaming?? but it doesnt seem to be an issue, and Your numbers confirm that it wasnt!!
 
#9 ·
On one level I would tend to agree about the excessive oil pressure situation, but if the viscosity of the lubricating oil is too high there can result a failure to lubricate properly, especially conventional engine bearings. Also since there is no published 2007 shop manual spec. about the VN900 oil pressure relief valve - only a manual test procedure - I believe that one should aim to follow the shop manual spec for oil pressure. I've seen blown oil seals on gasoline engines of various types which I've disassembled. I learned a lot from my neighbor who was plant lubrication and maintenance manager at the nearby Bethlehem Steel mill, and he rebuilt his own car engines, managing to get 125,000 - 150,000 out of them when others generally needed at least re-ringing long before that. He was adamant that improper oil viscosity was death for engines and that the worst problem was with viscosity which was too high. Of course you may be correct in your assessment, but I prefer to be on the side of caution. :)
 
#6 ·
Rotella 15w-40 is pretty much the only oil I've ever used in my bikes. It's absolutely the only oil I've ever put into my 900, the only exception was when it was brand new and the dealer did the first 600-mile oil change for me. I have had Rotella in it ever since. I'm no oil expert, but never had any problems either. Seems to do a good job.
 
#7 · (Edited)
I have used the rotella 5w40 in my last 4 bikes. 00 busa, 01 ex500, 03sv1000, and now the 05 vn1600 classic. I have never had a problem with it, but I did change it once a year or 3k miles for cheap insurance with fram filters. All can be had at my local wally world.

Sorry just reread the title of post. I didn't see the 15.
 
#8 ·
I used to to use the rotella dino version 15W40. I have switched to the rotella synthetic 5 W 40. The 15 W at cold start up was concerning me and the synthetic would be a 5 W oil upon start up. Not to mention that synthetic oils are just plain better at protection during cold start up were significant wear occurs. The cost difference isn't much once you consider the extended oil drain interval of the synthetic. I go about 3k miles on the dino and 5k on the synthetic with purolator pure one oil filter.

I am a fan of synthetics or even 'pseudo synthetics' like the 5W40,

rick
 
#13 ·
Last two oil changes... 15W-40 Rotella with Bosch 3300 filters. Haven't blown up yet! Coldest starts in the low 30's, with no problems cranking over.
 
#15 ·
Between the three bikes we have there are over 110,000 miles on RotellaT, My diesel pickup runs it(338,000 miles), F650 w/cummins(435,000), run it in wife's Jeep( 228,000miles) and my Bronco(just shy of 100,00 on this engine), Jeep is only thing that didn't get it as new, it had 185k on it when we bought it
 
#16 ·
Supertech filter

Regarding supertech filters, they earned a great reputation as a value, yet very effective, filter based on price and dissection of the filter to examine the insides. Walmart then changed source manufacturing over a year ago and things changed. The made in the USA version was the original and was good, not because of its manufacturing location, but due to the quality of the internals. The newer supplier sourced out of Mexico has changed the internals. The Made in Mexico versions are about the same as a Fram oil filter which is built with the lowest cost in mind (cardboard end caps, etc). I used to use the supertech, then checked the source of manufacture at walmart, and saw that it had changed to the Mexico version. A subsequent check, months later, showed USA source of manufacture. I don't know what that is about but maybe it's NOS filters arriving as they empty out old reserves. Anyway, I'd check the source of manufacture before buying. You have to open the box and look for the designation on the filter itself.

I now use Purolator PureONE filters. The internals are really nice with great filtering media. Just keep an eye out for sales on them and they're very reasonably priced. IMO, the best value in oil filters out there. Be sure to buy the PureONE version as purolator sells a budget version as well.

rick
 
#23 ·
For those with oil site glasses, you can check the oil level easily without putting bike on a lift by getting a small adjustable round mirror on an extendable rod at NAPA or Auto Parts store, if you don't see one, ask the desk if they can get it, it's 14 inches fully extended, sit on the bike and get it level and use the mirror to view the oil level in the site glass. You might have to lean the bike a slight bit left or right to get the oil in the sight glass to show its position, but by sitting you can judge bike level position. Its much easily checking oil level this way than put bike on lift
 
#28 ·
For those with oil site glasses, you can check the oil level easily without putting bike on a lift by getting a small adjustable round mirror on an extendable rod at NAPA or Auto Parts store,
As I wrote earlier, I did try that and wasn't able to see much as there are cables running in front of that glass, at least on my bike, which is kind of silly for Kawasaki to do it this way. Why give you a window and then obstruct it with other stuff so that it makes it such a PITA to use.
 
#24 ·
It does not need to be difficult at all to check the oil level in a sight glass equipped bike by yourself. Hop off the bike and squat down to where you're looking at the glass. Pull the handlebar until the bike is neutrally balanced (no input is required to keep it stable). At that point, you know the bike is level and you can accurately read the oil level. Quick, easy, and safe.
 
#32 · (Edited)
In the interest of proper and accurate oil level checking i don't recommend this procedure.

I own a hi-performance motorcyle shop down here in South Florida, and have been a m/c tech for 35 years come this September.

Many years ago i had a m/c tech working for me that checked oil levels in the same manner as you described. This was a tech with over 24 years experience at that time. He was checking the oil level on a customer's skoot in the above described manner at the same time i was walking past the front of the skoot. What i noticed was where he thought he had the skoot at that straight up balance point actually had it leaning a few degrees AWAY from straight up. He was surprised that he did not have the bike level. At that point i made the rule that ALL bikes have their oil checked either on a lift,or if on the floor it must be a 2 person job, one to hold the bike straight and the other to check and top off the oil level as needed.

We found just a few degrees off of straight up WILL alter the oil level in the sight glass. As a responsible shop owner i have to insure to myself thus my customers that we are servicing their skoots the right way.

I am not saying that someone cannot do the checking procedure perfectly. There is a potential of inconsistency that can affect a very inportant maintenance procedure.

RACNRAY
 
#27 ·
Hop off the bike and squat down to where you're looking at the glass. Pull the handlebar until the bike is neutrally balanced (no input is required to keep it stable). At that point, you know the bike is level and you can accurately read the oil level. Quick, easy, and safe.
Maybe because I'm short and fairly small in general, but I am not comfortable doing that at all. I tried, and was just not able to keep the bike steady while squatting down on the side of it.
 
#34 ·
The best way i can "explain" what you ask is this...Human perception is either going to be right, or wrong.

I was stating a past experience with someone using the same method that you described. He felt (his perception) that the skoot was "perfectly balanced" and was surprised when i showed him the angle he had the bike at while being "perfectly balanced". His "perception" was wrong, and in my case of owning and operating a shop that prides itself in and on doing things in a manner that leaves little room for error with my customer's skoots, i must err on the side of caution.

You may be able to have your bike at a perfectly straight attitude while checking. I only posted due to my past experience and in hopes of providing that info so others can evaluate what has been posted in this thread, not to claim you are doing it wrong or questioning your ability to use this method.

RACNRAY
 
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#37 · (Edited)
A common oil used in V-twins, especially in hot places during hot months, is 20W-50. With the extra buffering that the more viscous 20W-50 creates, the less you'd hear certain rattles - probably such as the valves since, when adjusted correctly, they have little gaps that do create some sound (not bad sound, but it can be described as being rattley). Yours may have had it in it before you went to 15W-40.

Now that summer is here, and since I live in a hotter state (south Florida), I will probably switch away from 15W-40 and use 20W-50 (so non-Rotella... but not sure what I might use). I will switch back to 15W-40 for something like December through April.
 
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