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Shifting in Traffic

4K views 26 replies 16 participants last post by  Diamond Jim 
#1 ·
I'm kind of a new rider... one thing has been bugging me about traffic : Shifting.

The cages are very often running right between my gears. They will be going 50mph - and I am wondering if I should shift up to 5th and lug or rev high in 4th? I've heard that the mpg on the vulcans likes the higher rpms?

Then there is the slow roll at a green light. Once they actually start moving, they move really, really slow. :rolleyes:

... then the other day, I saw an old Harley rider kill his bike at an intersection to avoid getting hit by a speeding car.

anyway... any input on the between gear cager speed issue?
 
#2 ·
in heavy traffic i will stay a gear down to keep my bike loud and ready for any evasive measures. as for the slow roll at the light, i will get tight and then park it. i dont mind a couple car lenghts in front of me, plus it gives me extra room to pull out if the jay hole coming up from behind isnt slowing down. stay safe and realize everyone in a car doesnt give a poo about bikers.
 
#3 ·
+1 on the lower gear. The more you play with the bike you will realize more and more how it will perform in situations like that. Get out somewhere safe and pretend a little. you will find that level in each gear where it is or is not beneficial to down shift and gun it. Sometimes it takes more time to click down and get on it than it does to just roll on the fuel.

But whenever I am in doubt I keep it in a lower gear for better response in acceleration and braking.
 
#4 ·
Higher rpm in heavy traffic is the better choice. I don't make a lot of noise so that doesn't count for me, but higher rpm keeps you in your power range. You should be able to rapidly change your speed and torque, as well as rapidly change lanes if needed. Backed up traffic and traffic lights really require you to learn how to feather the clutch. Slow moving is one of the harder skills for the new rider to learn. Get in an empty parking lot and practice, practice, practice! And finally, when stopping at a light, leave comfortable room in front and slightly angle your bike to one side or the other of the car in front of you right before stopping. If the cager behind you isn't stopping (of course you have to be watching!) you are already prepared to shoot between the cars in front of you to safety. Keep your head on a swivel, always yield, stay safe!
 
#8 ·
Slow moving is one of the harder skills for the new rider to learn. Get in an empty parking lot and practice, practice, practice!
I am heading to Vicksburg (MS) to the military park this weekend. It has a Looooong winding 'tour' through the historical battlefield with lots of places to practice. It has hills, curves, curvy hills, parking areas, stops... It should be fun and lots of practice! ( depending on weather )

.... daily commute is practice, but not much fun. :rolleyes: Then again, I am loving off-ramps... and on-ramps.
 
#6 ·
+1 to Old Bears comments. When you go to a safe place to practice slow maneuvers, as well as feathering the clutch, practice dragging the rear brake (and rear brake only) and you will see how much slower and steadier you will be.
 
#7 ·
+1 to Old Bears comments. When you go to a safe place to practice slow maneuvers, as well as feathering the clutch, practice dragging the rear brake (and rear brake only) and you will see how much slower and steadier you will be.
yeah that will come in handy when you are in slow moving traffic. I know when I was first told about it and learned how to do it I was just amazed at how easy it was to crawl around.
 
#9 ·
I also stay in the lower gear but I feel your pain in the frustration department. I'd rather stay in the lower gear than to have to worry about maintaining a certain speed to keep my bike running. Plus I don't know If you've noticed but most cagers in my neck of the woods seem to get even slower as I approach them.


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#10 ·
I prefer to keep my bike in a lower gear when in traffic as that prevents lugging of the engine and I get more power to the rear wheel, so the bike is more responsive. The other thing I do is wait to proceed out into an intersection. I don't just hit it the moment the light turns green because there are too many idiot drivers that believe red lights are just a suggestion to stop. If I'm behind another vehicle, I normally wait until they've moved a couple car lengths before I move out. And then, I just don't get antsy and irritated when other traffic moves slower than I'd like to go. I just go with the flow and avoid the aggrevation.
 
#12 · (Edited by Moderator)
":car: :poop:" :D
 
#15 ·
when seconds count , the nearest toilet is only minutes away !!!
 
#16 · (Edited)
Since you are riding a 1700 the idea that you are "in between gear speeds" is all in your head. At 45 to 50 you can be in 3rd or just into 4th. you've got lots of power and gear range to play with. In surface street traffic of any kind I never get any higher than 4th. The rpm range is phenomenal! But lugging the engine is not a good thing. If you need to accelerate, the engine is out of it's power band. Which means it has to get revving faster before it will get the bike moving at any speed.

Experience is the key here. Take the time to practice accelerating when you arent in traffic from those speeds. Do it from 3rd, 4th, and then 5th. You'll notice the difference. The lower gears allow you to be in better control of your bike. Plus it's easier on the engine if you don't lug it. Get used to not shifting into 5th unless youre on a road that you can go 55 or so on. And then only if theres no traffic.

The point I'm trying to make here is that you just need more experience with your bike! Let that puppy rev! If you can find a place that you can safely accelerate, try accelerating hard from a roll in first gear. Don't short shift. You'll be amazed at the speed you can go in each gear. This will give you an idea of what can be done realistically every day.

Don't forget to practice hard braking! Stopping quickly is more important than going faster!
 
#17 ·
Since you are riding a 1700 the idea that you are "in between gear speeds" is all in your head. At 45 to 50 you can be in 3rd or just into 4th. you've got lots of power and gear range to play with.
I've RTFM and I am still in the break in period where the owner's manual says don't get gears over a certain speed, so I am trying to stick with that for the whole 1000 miles - over half way there already at 890 miles.

1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th 6th - gear
(25) (40) (55) (70) (80) (95) - mph (550 to 1000 miles odo)

Still, you are very right... I am shifting early, or feeling the need to shift earlier than I should be. 2nd gear up to 40mph?!?! :eek: I'm still stuck on the 0-500 miles period where 2nd shouldn't get over 30...

Thank you! I'll be shifting better now!
 
#18 ·
I hate to admit it but I've gone much faster than 40 in second gear! I blame that on the moron that tried to run me over. But that's a whole nuther story! When I bought mine I did the baby it thing for the first 1000 miles. Now I'm in the process of seeing more of what it's capable of. So far I haven't found the limits.
 
#19 ·
Another important tip never, ever come to a complete stop in any other gear except 1st. Never stop in neutral in traffic or no traffic. You must be ready to get moving in a nano second. As traffic approaches you from behind, pump your brake to let vehicles behind you know that you are stationary. Consider every driver in a vehicle an idiot until they prove otherwise.
 
#20 ·
I would not worry much about the break in procedure. Especially if your already over 800 mi. It won't hurt that engine a bit to see some high RPM, and it is very important to your safety to keep the engine in its power band while moving slowly in traffic.
 
#22 ·
Okay, so... is it Okay or even good to stay in second at around 35-40 mph for a few blocks or miles or should I go on up to third at stay around 35-40 if its going to be quite a ways?

Third gear 45-55 and Fourth gear for highway speeds up to... 65-70 and go 5th on the interstate at 70-80? Sixth gear for higher speeds?

Or should I cruise the interstate in sixth from 60-75mph?

... I think a tach would be good to have... lol!

The low-speed riding is tough to get the 'perfect' gearing for. I'm sure I'll eventually be able to feel the gears out.
 
#23 ·
Hi Graywalker
The ops and maintenance manual that came with the bike has a chart that has gear vrs speed that I think is pretty good if you don't have the feel and ear for the rpm yet. I am not at home so I don't have the booklet handy. Maybe someone will pass the info along.
WEG
 
#24 · (Edited)
I've read it, I think. At least the chart for during the break-in period. Even posted some of it up a few on this thread.

Also found it online : Vulcan 1700 Classic Owner's Manual

Here are what is in the manual's charts :

Shifting up
1st -> 2nd = 12 mph
2nd -> 3rd = 19 mph
3rd -> 4th = 25 mph
4th -> 5th = 31 mph
5th -> 6th = 38 mph

Gear should not go over (after first 500 miles to after first 1000)
1st not over 25 mph
2nd not over 40 mph
3rd not over 55 mph
4th not over 70 mph
5th not over 80 mph
6th not over 95 mph

Shifting down
6th -> 5th = 28 mph
5th -> 4th = 25 mph
4th -> 3rd = 19 mph
3rd -> 2nd = 12 mph
2nd -> 1st = 9 mph

My question is, practically, should I be traveling down the road at 30 mph in 4th gear, as the 'shift up' suggests or should I be in 2nd gear - or 3rd - for traveling a distance at 30mph?

If I shift from 6th to 5th at 28 mph and release the clutch, won't I kill the bike or at least be causing some serious engine lug? Right now, I am shifting from 6th to 5th around 54 mph because that is where the engine starts to sound like its complaining.
 
#25 ·
I can't believe the manual suggests those shift points. 6th gear at 38 MPH? That's crazy. Somebody must have screwed something up when translating from Japanese to English. You shouldn't even be thinking about 6th gear until 80 MPH.
 
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