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My first Classic LT.....

5K views 24 replies 12 participants last post by  Wild_Bill 
#1 ·
and I'm having a real time with that thing. First, I'm having trouble getting the Cobra FI2000R mapped. But I think I might have that somewhat done. I finally set it at 120. But it still pops and backfires between shifts and during decel. I've taken the air breather out of her thinking she wasn't getting enough air. I've plugged up the hoses coming out of the rocker covers but not the ones in the air breather. Did'nt figure they mattered anyway. And after I put her to bed, you can hear her moaning as she cools down. WTF, people?? I can't leave the air breather outta her, but I know she needs more air. Any suggestions on any of this?? She's an '09 Classic LT with the Cobra 2 into 1 pipes and an FI2000R.

Thanks in advance

Mike
 
#3 · (Edited)
So you do not have an aftermarket air intake? If not i would take off the FI2000 and see how she does. Without after market pipes and intake there really isnt a need for a fuel programmer. It sounds like are you running really rich. i had pretty bad popping with my freedoms but once i plugged the ports on top of the engine most of it went away. You could pull a plug and see how they look to determine if your running lean or rich. Good luck and i hope you get it dialed in

Like silentghost said you should make sure the exhaust bolts are tight, the front right one is a pain in the ass to get torqued. Use a 1/4 inch drive extension with a knuckle, that makes it pretty easy
 
#4 ·
And after I put her to bed, you can hear her moaning as she cools down. WTF, people??
Agree with Sarge on probably too rich.....

And the "Moaning" you are hearing is more than likely pressure built up in the gas tank, caused from the heat of the motor and being released through the relief valve in the gas cap.
Open the gas cap to release the pressure. Sound will stop until pressure rebuilds.
 
#5 ·
The fuel processor was on there when I bought her. I had set it all the way down to 000 to see if that would help, and it didn't, so started dialing in and taking her out to see how she ran. This was the best I could find, so just left her there. Wish I could afford a dyno tune, but that's not in the works yet. Any suggestions as to which air intake to look for?? Saw Baron's made one.

Mike
 
#6 ·
I am very pleased with my XXX.
Great looks and sound.:


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#7 ·
Don't think you need to spend the money on air kit, just put in K&N filter. Several mechanics have told me air kit really won't allow any more air than a K&N filter. Fi200r at 120 really sounds way to lean and would increase engine heat and increase chance of damage. I have Freedom Performance pipes and K&N filter and Fi200r set at 3-5-0..Still pops on decel. Learned how to handle throttle on decel to avoid loud pops. Spoke with a reputable dyno center where I plan to go and they felt it was still running to lean, dyno will tell and I'll report after it's done.
 
#8 ·
if you are talking about the KN for the stock box your mechanic is wrong. The OEM air box is sealed and most aftermarket intakes have an open filter. There is no way the stock one can introduce as much air into the engine as the barons or spike ones. Not trying to be rude just saying. Here is the Barons BAK , slimmer profile then the stock airbox and really lets the engine breath.

 
#10 ·
Thanks guys.

Think I might try the Baron's and see what happens. I might increase the fuel just a notch or 2.
Also, I have been looking for engine guards for her but don't want the big ole guards that stick out about a foot and a half. Found some for about 250. Anyone have any suggestions.

Mike
 
#17 ·
As the K&N filter is supposedly about the best, what do you suggest? I was looking at adding one to my meanie in the spring. I understand about the OEM airbox, but do you just change that, or grampsize it? In your opinion is the Baron better?
 
#18 ·
The K&N filters are "up there" in quality.

But I'm not sure you fully understand why they said to change the airbox.

Maybe you do, but for those that don't..

Think of it like a huge air conditioner, with a huge compressor (engine). You have an intake "grill" that lets in a fair amount of air.. but you know that compressor can handle more air.

Now, you CAN change the filter on the intake, and perhaps some more air will reach that compressor.. but not much more.

Or.. you can take the intake off and put on a bigger one, which will allow more air to enter.

This means removing the entire intake, not just the filter or the part that holds the filter.

NOW your able to send lot's more air into that compressor.

But..that's kind of moot unless you increase the size of the output vent (pipes). Otherwise you have a bottle neck, as those pipes can only push out so much air.

And.. if you do both of those, you will need to put on some sort of fuel manager (power commander).

This is because the engine is "programmed" to expect a certain amount of air to be sucked in, and will only put X amount of fuel into the mix. You have to be able to tell the bike to add more fuel.

it's not cheap, doing all three. But it increases the horsepower a lot. Which is why people do it (that and for the looks).

The Big Baron's intake is one of the top ones. And one of the most popular. You have a ton of visual "options" to choose from with it.
 
#19 ·
Geez, I went and looked at the Baron's air intakes. I'm either gonna have to take out a 2nd on the house or put the honey on the streets. Damn, I think I'm gonna run mine clean for awhile and hope I don't grab a lot of dirt. I can't afford that right now.
 
#20 ·
air filters

Im not meaning to toss COLD water on all you High air Flow design[aka K& N] filter fans & Im not an engineer, but I DO hold a decades old, qualified Journeymans ticket.
Thus I would like to have one of you supporters explain to me exactly HOW a filter that can flow MORE air into my engine, can do it without also flowing MORE dirt. I can see through a high flow filter, the spaces in the material are VISIBLE to the naked eye. The High flow design filter increases its filter efficiency as it gets dirty, meaning that dirt is trapped on the filter media & reduces the open spaces in the media. Thus a dirty High flow does a better job of cleaning your engines air?, BUT it also reduces it air flow rate as it clogs, so what do we do? WE CLEAN IT , allowing more dirt into the engine.
FYI, it takes only ONE oz of road dust per 100 cubic INCHES of engine, getting through the filter to TOTALLY ruin your engine !!!! That means that if y our V2K's air filter lets 1.25 OUNCES of dust into the engine OVER THE LIFE OF THE ENGINE, its worn internally , beyond acceptable limits !!! Think about it guys!!!!
I have yet to be convinced by filter reps & salespeople , that ANY brand of high flow filter can achieve increased air flow without sacrificing filter efficiency.
Just MY opinion & experience.
 
#25 ·
Im not meaning to toss COLD water on all you High air Flow design[aka K& N] filter fans & Im not an engineer, but I DO hold a decades old, qualified Journeymans ticket.
Thus I would like to have one of you supporters explain to me exactly HOW a filter that can flow MORE air into my engine, can do it without also flowing MORE dirt. I can see through a high flow filter, the spaces in the material are VISIBLE to the naked eye. The High flow design filter increases its filter efficiency as it gets dirty, meaning that dirt is trapped on the filter media & reduces the open spaces in the media. Thus a dirty High flow does a better job of cleaning your engines air?, BUT it also reduces it air flow rate as it clogs, so what do we do? WE CLEAN IT , allowing more dirt into the engine.
FYI, it takes only ONE oz of road dust per 100 cubic INCHES of engine, getting through the filter to TOTALLY ruin your engine !!!! That means that if y our V2K's air filter lets 1.25 OUNCES of dust into the engine OVER THE LIFE OF THE ENGINE, its worn internally , beyond acceptable limits !!! Think about it guys!!!!
I have yet to be convinced by filter reps & salespeople , that ANY brand of high flow filter can achieve increased air flow without sacrificing filter efficiency.
Just MY opinion & experience.
I'm thinking along same line as you. I live 3/4 mile down a dirt road and I am not about to change from oem filter. I have changed them , on both bikes but they needed it.
 
#22 ·
Thanks Pearhead for the link. I saw an Arlen Ness Big Sucker on there that looks kinda like the one I put on my 1600 Classic. I may try that one. On my 1600 I put them on both sides. Does the Classic LT take it on both or just the right side???

Mike
 
#23 ·
Just right side is the air filter.
The left side is the coil cover

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#24 ·
OK guys, you haven't steered me wrong yet. I really like the Baron's intake but it is a little pricey. I've found something that's called Arlen Ness Intake Kit specifically for the Classic LT. Considerably cheaper, just not as stylish. I can live with non-stylish for that amount of difference. Anyone else either heard of these or maybe are using them now??
 
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