I am going to be heading up your way in the morning on vacation, going to New Castle, Indiana 1st then to eastern Ohio from there monday or tuesday. Since you were so helpful on my top end rebuild last winter, would like to meetup for a cheap-moderate dinner, or maybe just a coffee if that would be good for you. I'll be going through Cincy on my way up tomorrow evening, and through Dayton on 70 in a few days.
if interested, send private message and I'll give you my phone number.
Thanks for giving me all the input last month.
Yesterday on my ride the front engine stopped working again now it doesn't go back on. That is probably a good thing so now I can do some trouble shooting. I will try again to do the test you told me about. May I continue to chat with you?
Thanks in advance.
looks like your the man to talk to about any problems with a vn1500 so maybe you can give me some advice, I have a 1997 Vulcan classic 1500 with 28xxx miles on it I got the bike with a busted 2nd gear so I tore the thing down split the case changed the gear out & I took it all apart & cleaned everything & changed everything that was broke or wore out so I got it all back together & took it for its first ride it runs great & drives great minus the part were it goes into second gear & jumps back out then with out trying to shift it back into 2nd it acts like its trying to engage into 2nd gear by it self, I can feel the cogs trying to catch as its doing this but it just wont fully take ,all the other gears hold just fine its just 2nd gear that's giving me trouble ,i was told that its just a bent shift fork but ive been reading that it could be the shift drum, whats your opinion? & what signs of a bad shift drum should I look for ? thanks in advance for any help you can give me
i need your expertise...i have a 2000 kaw vulcan nmad 1500 f.i, i am having the fuel pump priming problem. To explain when its cold and on kckstand it will not prime until bike is in vertical (riding) position at this point i cycle the key and can hear it prime up. After riding for awhile (to get it hot) it just depends on whether is gonna cycle and prime or not. Sometimes it has to sit for 30 minutes before it will cycle and prime to start. Now i have been all trough this bike trying to fix problem. I replacedthe d.f.i relay went through all the fuses and we connections with electrical cleaner. Cleaned the throttle body thouroughly, still having problem. Checked with a few local shops and i was told fuel pump might be overheating but i dont know how plausible that sounds. The bke did a sit for a period of time but not sure how long. you can contact me on here or thru email at firstname.lastname@example.org or you can text me if you like at 620-504-2129. Thanks again for any ideas.
I have a kaw Vaquero where the aux driving lights are in the faring ilke the voyager. The driving lights come on when the key is in acc mode and stay on when the bright light is turned on. I don't know how many amps or watts the vaquero can handle Im no electriction. And I don't know if the charging and stator can handle the 80/100watt headlight with 55 watt aux driving lights. Or do I need to go back to the 55/65 watt headlight to cut the amount the system can handle. Thank You for Your Help Greatly, B Cope.
I have a 2011 vaquero with a 80/100watt bulb in the main head light with no problem with heat or conector melting. I had the kaw driving lights installed by a dealer and ordered two h8 bulbs 55watt to replace the stock 35watt ones with do you think I will have a problem with the amount of draw on power if I install them. Or should I just get a brighter 35watt bulbs to put in. Live in deer country and ride at night after work can you help me out on this one Thanks.
Hey sfair. I have a 1999 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 classic. I replaced the oil pump gear and went through the whole motor and rebuilt it. k&n and v&h pipe aftermarket accessories. I finally have the engine in the frame and everything turns over fine by hand. problem is I can get it to start easy, when it does run it seems to run good but doesn't stay running & dies. stock jets. I have to turn the carb screw way out about 5-6 turns out to get it to start easier(which isn't that easy). it needs a jet kit but theres a bigger problem. Problem is that when it doesn't turn over and fire up it makes a horrible noise & pops white smoke out the carb. Starter clutch looks good tho. its sounds pretty violent. Its very loud and only does it when its trying to start. I've cleaned the carb, spark plugs are new gets good spark. fresh oil, coolant. comp is around 175 in all four. Thanks for your time.
I have a 1988 1500A. Over the last couple of days, I've noticed what felt like something was grabbing perhaps plastic and then popping loose as I turned the bars. It has gotten a little worse, so I pulled the tank and plastic frame covers off, thinking that something might be catching them. It didn't stop. The bars can go back and forth a few times smoothly, fell no tightness, or roughness, then suddenly it catches, put more pressure on them and then it makes an audible "pop" and continues to turn smoothly again. Does this sound like I have a bad bearing, or what??