Changed from Rotella t-6 Synthetic to Amsoil 10-40 Synthetic [Archive] - Kawasaki Vulcan Forum : Vulcan Forums

: Changed from Rotella t-6 Synthetic to Amsoil 10-40 Synthetic


silenthill
07-20-2010, 06:33 PM
Well, as most of you regulars are probably aware, I was running Rotella 5-40 syn in the nine since new. It ran great. I had always used Amsoil in my bikes with great success, but the price point got too high for me when I switched to a cruiser. Then came my birthday. It seems my wife picked up on my SLIGHT apprehension using the Rotella and presented me with 4 liters of Amsoil syn and a hiflo filter (that I know nothing about). Happy birthday lmao.
Now, the 900 ran fine with the Rotella, smooth as silk in fact, but I am curious if the Amsoil will do the following.
1. Quiet my third gear whine (it's not the belt).
2. Quiet the KAWI-TICK that I still get when the bike gets hot and I do a re-start.
Other than those two complaints that are inherent to the bike, I love the nine.
The Rotella definitely made the bike run smoother and cooler. The fan barely came on while using the Rotella, prior to my change, the fan was almost constantly on using dino. After 3000k I noticed the bike getting a little harder to shift, I think the Rotella needs to be changed frequently although the data that I have read suggests it holds it's own well past 5000k.
Anyways, I'll keep you guys apprised of any and all pros and cons between Amsoil and Rotella.
Regards, S.H.
P.S. I researched Rotella to death before I ran it......I know ALL the pros and cons including some wise comments from Bob the Amsoil guy. This will be an un-scientific analysis. A seat of the pants comparison if you will.

jagered
08-05-2010, 04:26 PM
the oil might hold its own... but i have noticed minor shifting 'quirks' after the oil heats up. like slipping into N instead of 2nd or not going to 1st when stopping. also it seemed that i had to change the amount of throttle i gave it when shifting because i would get jerks when shifting after riding for a while?!?!

maybe it's just me... :o

scorpio_vette
08-05-2010, 05:37 PM
maybe it's just me, but i prefer to change my bike oil at 3,000miles. personally i don't see how on a car 4-stroke engine it should be changed at 3,000, but on a bike suddenly it's ok to change it later.

on the other hand, i play with all my toys like i stole them, so i make sure that i'm very strict on my maintenance. and so far i can honestly say that i've never had an engine failure except when i blew them up by doing things that i shouldn't have been doing (1/4" of mud and water inside 2 cylinders is never good for a motor. makes things go CLICK CLICK BOOOM).

fastpakr
08-05-2010, 08:24 PM
maybe it's just me, but i prefer to change my bike oil at 3,000miles. personally i don't see how on a car 4-stroke engine it should be changed at 3,000, but on a bike suddenly it's ok to change it later.
What's the last car you looked at that showed a 3k mile oil change interval under the regular maintenance schedule? Most everything I've driven in the past 10 years or so is significantly greater than that. All my vehicles get oil changes at 5k miles, and the lowest mileage vehicle I own is above 150k miles. The Ranger (closest thing I've got to a daily driver outside of the Vulcan) is over 235.

scorpio_vette
08-05-2010, 10:38 PM
What's the last car you looked at that showed a 3k mile oil change interval under the regular maintenance schedule? Most everything I've driven in the past 10 years or so is significantly greater than that. All my vehicles get oil changes at 5k miles, and the lowest mileage vehicle I own is above 150k miles. The Ranger (closest thing I've got to a daily driver outside of the Vulcan) is over 235.

well, when i was a mechanic at the chevy dealership back in early 2000, everything was tagged at 3,000 miles, from the cavalier to the corvette with mobil 1 synthetic.


as far as vehicles that i've owned, i've owned roughly 10 different cars/trucks in the last 10 years, and out of those, the newest one was a 1997. i try not to get vehicles newer than 1996 when it comes to cars. i try to stay away from as much bullshit electronics and failure parts as possible. perhaps it's because i was/am a mechanic and tired of working on all this cheap shit electronic gadgetry nowadays, or because the less parts there are to fail, the cheaper the vehicle is to own.


only reason i own newer bikes is because (until the vulcan) they were still simple and had nearly no electronics and used carburetors which are cheaper to modify than fuel injection. still not sure how happy i am about buying this new fuel injected vulcan. just hoping i won't regret it.


so i guess perhaps they've changed the maintenance interval in the last 10years on cars, but i do remember that several of the cars i worked on before i left the dealership were starting to come out with a oil change light that actually calculated oil change based on how the car was driven, how long it was running, etc..etc.. so it might come on sooner or later depending on usage of the vehicle.


and as i mentioned earlier, i use all my vehicles VERY HARD and play with them like there is no tomorrow, so i also do the maintenance just as aggressively.

whoaru99
08-05-2010, 10:48 PM
Ehhh...changing oil is highly overrated... of course change intervals by dealers and oil companies are 3k miles. They make twice as much money off you as when you change at 5 or 6K. I don't think OEM has required 3K changes since the 60s or 70s.

bulldozer
08-16-2010, 10:30 AM
Had an old retired ( GM ) buddy wanted to see how long it would take to trash his engine on his Chevy PU so he never changed his oil, once a year he would change the filter and add a quart or so and always kept it topped off > it was still runnin strong at 125,000 miles.. He spent years telling me the suggested oil change mileage was all hype and created huge profits for the manufactures and oil companies.... Ask the next truck driver you see how often they change their oil it will surprise you , just sayin....

silenthill
10-30-2010, 09:35 AM
I've gotten quite a few im's asking for my opinion after the switch. Here goes.
1. I found the Rotella (syn) quite smooth up untill 3000k, then it appeared to get quite clunky.
2. Rotella is not suitable for winter storage, it lacks the anti-rust inhibitors that OUR trannies need for storage.

1. Amsoil, quite smooth with no apparent degradation after 4000k, bike is still smooth and shifts fine.
2. Amsoil apparently can withstand winter storage without having to be changed (Bob might chime in here if he's around). Basically I'm gonna store the bike with the current Amsoil in it.....and next spring I'll swap it out.



Conclusion, Both oils worked the same initially, and, a great improvement over conventional dino. The Rotella, after 3k, was done. The Amsoil after 3k felt like I just put it in yesterday. Neither quieted the "kawi-tick".....or the/my third gear whine. Both made shifting easier and less clunky.
On a side note, my bike won't WON'T tolerate premium gas. The Kawi-tick" was significantly reduced staying with regular gas. All along I thought oil might "cure" it....imagine my surprise when after trial and error I discovered it was the anti-knock properties of premium it didn't like. We all like to occationally run the "best" gas in our bikes. It's a guy thing. In the 900's case, the "best" gas is regular. Funny thing is????getting it ready for winter I decided to fill with premium, somehow clinging to the myth that higher octane gas was best....and the damn "tick" came right back....loud as can be.....when will I learn. Anyways, there u have it. By no means a scientific analysis. Just real life/seat of the pants experiences.
Regards, SH.

RoyVN900
10-30-2010, 10:59 AM
Iv'e been using Amsoil in my bike almost exclusively for the last 24K and the reason for it is mainly I'm lazy and don't want to change it at 3000 miles I'd rather go 6000 miles. I haven't shopped a lot for regular oil but it seemed that I remember an oil change costing me about $25.00 and with Amsoil it is about twice that but I don't have to worry about changing it all the time. 3000 miles goes by fast these days. The engine is certainly quieter with regular oil in it but that hasn't bothered me and I now have 34K on her. As a side to this the 1st year the dealer did all of the services for me and I never got out of that shop without spending less than $150.00 So doing it myself I have no problem justifying the expense of Synthetic.

Kerry
10-30-2010, 11:38 AM
The engine is certainly quieter with regular oil in it

That's interesting. I've been running Amsoil in my 900 LT and was wondering if dino oil would quiet the engine. I'd rather change oil more often if I could get a nice noise reduction. Can you put a percentage on the noise difference that you noticed?

thanks

PatC
10-30-2010, 10:02 PM
That's interesting. I've been running Amsoil in my 900 LT and was wondering if dino oil would quiet the engine. I'd rather change oil more often if I could get a nice noise reduction. Can you put a percentage on the noise difference that you noticed?

thanks


That IS interesting. My engine (1500) got a little quieter after switching over to synthetic.

SANDI B.
10-31-2010, 02:16 AM
I find all this talk about oil very interesting. I had been reading alot of posts about how Amsoil is suppose to be the best oil for our bikes, so of course, wanting to use the Best, I decided to switch from Castrol 10W-40W and NAPA filter (Against my husband's better judgement) and I put in the Amsoil and used a Kawi filter. After about 1800 miles my VN900 Classic LT developed what I call a "chirping" sound which increased with rpms. I was ready to take it into the Kawi shop but instead talked to a mechanic and the first thing he asked "Are you using Amsoil?" He said this happens frequently with the Kawi and Amsoil use. So I drained out the Amsoil and changed the filter, replacing them with the Castrol and NAPA Gold filter. After about 50 miles it started to quiet some and now I have 300 miles on this oil change and not hearing the "chirping" sound, but still hear whining noise which seems to me a little louder than usual. So am not sure yet if I have remedied the problem. Time and miles will tell I guess. Anyone else out there experienced this???:confused:

Kerry
10-31-2010, 10:10 AM
Dunno, Sandi. I can't say whether mine has a chirp like yours or not. All the MC engines that I've had, were/are noisy. The noises usually change over time, as the engines wore in. Lots of other factors too, like belt noise, tire noise, breather, clutch, etc. My 900 LT now has over 4k miles and the noises have changed dramatically, because I had so many noise issues with the belt, pulley and a hose that was dragging on the pulley/belt. Engine noise changed subtly when I installed a fuel computer.

So, dunno how much of that the oil contributes, if any. The only way for me to tell is to change the oil and see. :p With only 3k on the oil, not sure I want to do that yet, but your report of quieting with the change from amsoil to castrol has me intrigued.

Your report of the mechanic's statement is also interesting. My dealership has 2 full time mechanics. Both say that amsoil is good stuff. How's a body supposed to figure this stuff out, with all the conflicting info out there? :confused:

I'll probably change to dino oil in the near future, just to see what noises change, if I can detect any. I'll post back here with any results.

MN-Rider
10-31-2010, 11:44 AM
That IS interesting. My engine (1500) got a little quieter after switching over to synthetic.

Same experience I have had in our our machines here.

fastpakr
10-31-2010, 01:39 PM
I noticed no difference at all in noise when switching between dino and synthetic. Also, no breakdown in the oil (Rotella T6 synthetic) at 3k miles. Based on lab results, at 4k miles there was still plenty left in the additives (shifting was still perfectly smooth as well). I'm pushing this oil change to 6k miles and then submitting another sample to the lab.

08Vulcan
10-31-2010, 11:45 PM
Thought I'd chime in with my own experience with Amsoil here. I switched at about 3800 miles, from Honda HP-4 semi-syn oil, and after putting 5 qts in (my bike is a v2k), I started it up and let it run. First thing I noticed is that the cooling fan never did come on, even after letting it sit and idle for at least ten minutes. Second thing, the gear shifts were much smoother than they had been before. A lot less "clank". Thirdly, the gas mileage came up about 1 mpg. I strictly document my gas mileage all of the time so I am sure it is not a fluke. I don't think the noises the engine makes have changed any so I can't add anything there.
I plan to continue using it, and for the record I was able to obtain it a dollar a quart cheaper than I can buy the Kawi full synthetic from my local dealer. Just my .02 worth....

SANDI B.
11-01-2010, 04:36 AM
Kerry,
Thanks for responding to my question. I really don't know why there is such a difference in advice from mechanics either. But I guess I should have stuck with my husband's advice since he had used Castrol 10W-40W in his 1986 Suzuki Cavalcade 1400cc ever since he got it and he put over 110,000 miles on it and hardly had any problems with it. No problems with the engine or clutch anyway. Learn from experience...right?:rolleyes:
Thanks again. Sandi

Degreaser
01-26-2011, 01:03 PM
1. I found the Rotella (syn) quite smooth up untill 3000k, then it appeared to get quite clunky.
2. Rotella is not suitable for winter storage, it lacks the anti-rust inhibitors that OUR trannies need for storage.

The Rotella, after 3k, was done.


Question: is that 3k in miles or km?
Also, I got Rotella T 5w40 in the vulcan 1500 bike now for winter storage, in the spring before riding, should I dump it out? because you said it lacks anti-rust inhibitors?

Luciferiad
01-26-2011, 01:16 PM
After break-in, I switched to Castrol 4T sythnetic M/C oil, and never noticed any unusual engine noises. I have the ubiquitous tick (as do three friends who all also have '09 VN900s), as well as a sort of low-volume "howl" at about 30 mph which is louder with more weight on the bike...I'm assuming belt noise. I get anywhere from 50-53 mpg riding 2-up. I've put about 1700 miles on this oil change, and none of these issues has had any change.

Downside: the my local Walmart no longer carries Castrol 4T 10w-40, so I'm either going to have to switch to Rotella T6 or start taking it dry from a parts store to get the oil I want. Jury's still out on that.

VN2053rider
01-26-2011, 01:32 PM
Question: is that 3k in miles or km?
Also, I got Rotella T 5w40 in the vulcan 1500 bike now for winter storage, in the spring before riding, should I dump it out? because you said it lacks anti-rust inhibitors?

So, it lacks the anti-rust inhibitors?
Can that be verified, I don`t believe that is true.
All other oils have anti-rust inhibitors.

Degreaser
01-26-2011, 02:00 PM
I don't mind dumping out the Rotella T5 5w40 in the spring if I have to, because I bought a case of the T6 at the Shell depot. I wanted the 5w40 because I live in canada and most of my engine start-ups are cold and I wanted the 5 weight oil to move around in the engine quicker. I seen somewhere that 95% of engine wear is at start-ups. If that 3k on the Rotella oil change is in miles, that's 4,827 km for me, which is ok because I change the Rotella out at 4,600 km or less now.

lazarus
02-26-2011, 01:04 PM
Will anyone please tell me why Kawasaki's own service interval is 7500 miles on the oil change? Ma Kaw's own engineers suggest this interval.

The only thing I can think of is that even if your oil is sheared down into the equivalent of 3 weight oil, it's still good enough to keep things lubed. I just don't know.

Who can help,

rick

p.s. It doesn't get much love here, but I think the best oil available is Redline. It has a superb base with a lot less additives. That's just my opinion and I don't spring for the added cost over my Rotella synthetic which has served me well.

BigDawgB
03-10-2011, 03:39 PM
I ride a Suzuki Intruder 1500... Wife rides the Vulcan 900 Classic.. have put 15,000 miles on the Zuk.. 3 oil changes with Rotella.. and about 7,000 on the 900. with 1 oil change.. No problems, shifting great, running smooth, not ticking. no problems what so ever. Ride year round cuz we are in Florida.. don't worry about rust inhibitors or the bikes sitting for long periods cuz they don't.. we ride em..

Degreaser
03-10-2011, 04:14 PM
I think the engine would get rust sitting during storage if there was moisture in the crankcase, and the best way for a crankcase to get moisture is to start up a cold bike that is in the middle of winter storage, then when the crankcase gets cold again, there is moisture built up inside the engine, I heard not to start the bike up during winter storage until you're ready to ride it in the spring, it is also my opinion that water-cooled motorcycles do not need synthetic oil, to me synthetic is only used in longer oil change intervals, that's the only benefit I can see using synthetic is the longer OCI

Amsoil Dealer Group
03-17-2011, 02:44 PM
I think the engine would get rust sitting during storage if there was moisture in the crankcase, and the best way for a crankcase to get moisture is to start up a cold bike that is in the middle of winter storage, then when the crankcase gets cold again, there is moisture built up inside the engine, I heard not to start the bike up during winter storage until you're ready to ride it in the spring, it is also my opinion that water-cooled motorcycles do not need synthetic oil, to me synthetic is only used in longer oil change intervals, that's the only benefit I can see using synthetic is the longer OCI

You are correct on the storage part.

All "Synthetic" oil is not alike. Although "extended" drains can be had, they shouldbe verified by oil analysis unless using AMSOIL which has been tested for that.

Advantages of a "True" Synthetic such as AMSOIL, M-1 4T, Motul 300V etc... are smoother shifting, cooler oil temps, easier to find neutral, fewer false neutrals, more HP, better fuel mileage and less wear.

To some other posts... Rotella does not have the amount of Anti-Rust and Corrosion Inhibitors that many M/C oils have. You may be thinking of acid neutralization which is measured by TBN. Nor does it have specific anti-wear additives for the transmission.

Is it a good oil ? Will it work in a M/C ? Yes. There are just better oils available.

The Best isn't cheap
Cheap isn't The Best

Bob

RoyVN900
03-17-2011, 03:16 PM
I think the engine would get rust sitting during storage if there was moisture in the crankcase, and the best way for a crankcase to get moisture is to start up a cold bike that is in the middle of winter storage, then when the crankcase gets cold again, there is moisture built up inside the engine, I heard not to start the bike up during winter storage until you're ready to ride it in the spring, it is also my opinion that water-cooled motorcycles do not need synthetic oil, to me synthetic is only used in longer oil change intervals, that's the only benefit I can see using synthetic is the longer OCI

Hi Degreaser, I am only going to post my opinion on the winter time moisture build up part of your post and I may be wrong but in my opinion winter storage for "MY Location" is actually less humid. My fingers crack and my lips chap in the winters here in New York because the air is so dry in the winter. During summer a fella that only rides his bike only once a week will develop more condensation in the crankcase. Each time a bike is shut off when it cools it will collect moisture inside whether it's summer or winter. There are more heating cooling cycles for the engine in the summer than their in the winter, and if what your saying is true then I better not ride at all during the winter. Theres a bunch of guys that get together for a new years day ride over here and I'll be sure to let them know of the damage their doing to their bikes. As for Amsoil I am a devoted user and very glad I switched. The Amsoil guy ships right to my house and the filters come with it. The order I place for 1 case lasts me 3 oil changes and I record the date and mileage right on the outside of the box so I can keep track of my maintenance schedule. I go right to 6k with my oil changes and I also inspect the oil that comes out. If I even suspected that the oil was getting to beat up I would change it sooner than that. Sorry for all of that, I just wanted to share my opinion. You know we all have one. Happy riding!:)

Amsoil Dealer Group
03-17-2011, 08:37 PM
Roy,

Remember, the cylinder is nothing more than a chamber holding air. What happens when air changes temperature ? Condensation.

The Best isn't cheap
Cheap isn't The Best

Bob

King43
03-22-2011, 11:41 PM
I have run Ams for years in my cars, trucks and bikes. My wife's Reflex 250 is notorious for running hot due to all the body work on the bike, but even when the Reflex pulls me up some of the 6% and 7% passes in my area, the temp gauge barely moves (fan does come on; running Honda dino, fan never went off). On my VN900D, after running 40 highway miles at 70+ mph, pulled up the off-ramp and pulled over; fan didn't come on during the 5 minutes that I sat there and idled (64 degree weather). Works for me. Here is a link to a comparison test for motorcycle oils - www.amsoil.com/lit/g2156.pdf (http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g2156.pdf)

Blue Sky
03-23-2011, 04:06 AM
Is this the correct AMSOIL?

http://www.amsoil.com/catalog.aspx?code=MCFQT-EA

Just want to be sure I am getting the right stuff.

Thanks,

Frank

King43
03-23-2011, 09:57 AM
:smile-big:Not to step on Bob's toes (this is his forum, I reckon)......

Frank, if you bike needs 10w-40, that is the right stuff; I use this same bike oil in my wife's Reflex 250, daughters' Ruckus 50 and Zuma 125, my son's XL185 and KZ550LTD, and my VN9 and SP250.

Amsoil Dealer Group
03-23-2011, 01:04 PM
MCF is the proper oil and EAOM-103 is the filter

Don't forget to contact us for your forum member discount

The Best isn't cheap
Cheap isn't The Best

Bob