Ignition key swap help! - Kawasaki Vulcan Forum : Vulcan Forums
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-19-2016, 10:31 AM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
jkidd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 19
Garage
Ignition key swap help!

I picked up a 1992 Vulcan 500 this weekend and am slowly working through any issues that it has to get it on the road.

One of these issues is a missing ignition switch. The keys were lost long ago by a PO. The guy I bought if from had been hotwiring the bike, effectively as the switch was removed.

Currently, I have a toggle plugged in to act as an "ignition".

As I look online for replacements, I'm stunned at the cost for an OEM set. I do, however see a number of Emgo aftermarket, etc. None of them show to be "compatible" with the EN500a, though they seem to have the same 5-wire setup.

Would one of these switches work? Plug and play?

Thanks!

Josh

'92 Vulcan en500 project
jkidd is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-19-2016, 11:18 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: St Paul, MN
Year/Make/Model: 1995 Kawasaki Vulcan 500
Color: Black / grey
Gender: Male
Posts: 222
I'd run far away from this one.
Who knows what other gremlins you'll find if someone had to remove the ignition.
If you must keep it - for cheap parts check ebay!


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
1995 en500 stock with windshield - 25,000 miles
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
vulcandoc is offline  
post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-19-2016, 11:24 AM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
jkidd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 19
Garage
Honestly, the rest of the harness is completely untouched. The original owner apparently lost the keys, and then it sat in his shop for some time. It runs, everything works...it's just set up on a toggle right now. I'd like it to be a bit more secure than that!

I plan to bob and customized this bike a bit, so I may be relocating the ignition key anyway.
jkidd is offline  
 
post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-20-2016, 09:49 AM
Member
 
NEvulcan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Omaha, NE
Year/Make/Model: 2000 Vulcan Classic
Displacement/CC's: 800
Color: Grey (for now)
Gender: Male
Posts: 52
Garage
First thing I'll say when it comes to electrical on bikes is anything will work if its rated for the amperage and can be outside. If you're going to bob the bike I'd keep the ignition switch a toggle and relocate the kill switch somewhere hidden (and don't tell anyone where it is). The hidden kill switch will be your extra security. If you really want to get tricky hide both you ignition and kill switches. I've relocated my ignition switch, electric start button, and kill switch because I'm removing all electrical from the bars on my Bobber.

The simple fact is its not hard to fire up a motorcycle without the keys and if you know how the electrical system works. The keyed ignition isn't that "secure", it just keeps the average Joe from taking a joyride in my opinion. Check out my topic in the Chopper/Bobber area, I have a few pics of what's been done so far. Personally I love the fact I don't need my keys anymore. (PS you can also run 2 kill switches on the bike for additional security)

Good luck with the build! If your run into any trouble post something in the chopper/bobber forum.

Current stock:
2011 Vulcan Vaquero
2000 Vulcan Classic (800) - Bobber Project
1978 GS750
NEvulcan is offline  
post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-20-2016, 10:19 AM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
jkidd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 19
Garage
Interesting thought.

I had flirted with the idea of doing something like that a day or two ago.

First I have to chase down why the headlight isn't working, etc...just to make sure everything is right...before I start any relocation work.

I've thought about pulling the airbox, running pods/rejetting, and putting together a panel just under the seat and putting the kill switch, ignition, and start button there. At that point, I'm trying to figure out where to put all the other junk...solenoid, junction box, etc.

Thanks for getting my mind going!

Josh

'92 Vulcan en500 project
jkidd is offline  
post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-20-2016, 11:52 AM
Member
 
NEvulcan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Omaha, NE
Year/Make/Model: 2000 Vulcan Classic
Displacement/CC's: 800
Color: Grey (for now)
Gender: Male
Posts: 52
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by jkidd View Post
Interesting thought.

I had flirted with the idea of doing something like that a day or two ago.

First I have to chase down why the headlight isn't working, etc...just to make sure everything is right...before I start any relocation work.

I've thought about pulling the airbox, running pods/rejetting, and putting together a panel just under the seat and putting the kill switch, ignition, and start button there. At that point, I'm trying to figure out where to put all the other junk...solenoid, junction box, etc.

Thanks for getting my mind going!

Well first off check the 3 prong connector to you headlight. The stock one on mine was causing my headlight to turn off and on. It wasn't making good secure connections anymore (loose). I removed it and installed a new connector. I've notices the connectors under the tank tend to loosen up over time and don't hold tight anymore. I plan to hard wire the important ones so I don't have to worry about a connection issue.

As for the electrical stuff on my vn800 i moved the starter solenoid, ECU, and wiring harness slack into the right side box (the triangle covered one with the lock). By doing that it left enough room for the fuse box and batter under the seat.

Check out this video. It might give you an idea. https://youtu.be/mZ8O1a9a5Dc

Current stock:
2011 Vulcan Vaquero
2000 Vulcan Classic (800) - Bobber Project
1978 GS750
NEvulcan is offline  
post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-20-2016, 05:42 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
jkidd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 19
Garage
I'm about to buy a new bulb for the headlight. There is some rattling in the bulb, though it doesn't look burned out. Sounds like something broke inside. We will see.

So...regarding the ignition.

Right now, I have my toggle wired in between WHITE - Toggle - BROWN/YELLOW.

The RED and BLUE wires were tied together by the PO. Those should be light circuits, right? Do I need to do anything with those...other than keep them together?

Or is my basic wiring correct? Meaning that the RED and BLUE done really "do" anything besides complete a circuit?

I think I may just keep it in this configuration, but extend/move wires to where I want them. I also like the idea of having the RUN/STOP switch on a toggle as well as the "ignition" toggle along with a push button. I may do what you suggested as well and run 2 "ignition" switches...for added security. Hide one under a fender or under the tank somewhere....
jkidd is offline  
post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-20-2016, 08:50 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
jkidd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 19
Garage
Well...it just keeps getting better.

The lights that weren't working in the cluster didn't have bulbs. Easy fix.
The headlight that wasn't work? Missing fuses in the junction box. Also and easy fix.

At this point...I just lack finding a suitable tank, though it looks like my local auto salvage may have one...and sorting what I want to do with my ignition.

In response to my earlier question....

If I'm running a single toggle for my "ignition." I suppose EVERYTHING would get tied to the back end of the switch...since there is no park or acc. setting. Right?
jkidd is offline  
post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-21-2016, 09:06 AM
Member
 
NEvulcan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Omaha, NE
Year/Make/Model: 2000 Vulcan Classic
Displacement/CC's: 800
Color: Grey (for now)
Gender: Male
Posts: 52
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by jkidd View Post
Well...it just keeps getting better.

The lights that weren't working in the cluster didn't have bulbs. Easy fix.
The headlight that wasn't work? Missing fuses in the junction box. Also and easy fix.

At this point...I just lack finding a suitable tank, though it looks like my local auto salvage may have one...and sorting what I want to do with my ignition.

In response to my earlier question....

If I'm running a single toggle for my "ignition." I suppose EVERYTHING would get tied to the back end of the switch...since there is no park or acc. setting. Right?


Take a good look at the wiring diagram and identify which are the hot (+) wire and which are the ground (-). Then attach those to the proper nodes on the switch. Basically you are making it a single turn switch that turns everything on or everything off. Depending on what that wiring diagram looks like you MIGHT be able to remove the accessory wires (cap/terminate). Again refer to the wiring diagram to see if the accessory and run share a connection or run separate connections. Last thing you want to do it be able to start the bike but not have any headlight,taillight, speedo light.

Anytime your rewiring something like this test the new connections before you remove anything on the original harness. Make sure it works the way you need it to. Then you can worry about the location and removing unnecessary wiring.

On a side note get that wiring diagram printed out as big as you can and nail it to the wall. Trust me you'll want to have the ability to easily trace the wire path.

My good buddy has his setup so he can turn on switch 2 and start the bike. It allows him to leave the lights off. He's running a V-Start 1100 bobber.
Switch 1: Accessories
Switch 2: Ignition "Run"
Switch 3: Electric Start

Current stock:
2011 Vulcan Vaquero
2000 Vulcan Classic (800) - Bobber Project
1978 GS750
NEvulcan is offline  
post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-21-2016, 09:19 AM
Member
 
NEvulcan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Omaha, NE
Year/Make/Model: 2000 Vulcan Classic
Displacement/CC's: 800
Color: Grey (for now)
Gender: Male
Posts: 52
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by jkidd View Post
At this point...I just lack finding a suitable tank, though it looks like my local auto salvage may have one...and sorting what I want to do with my ignition.
If you need a fuel tank take a look at some of the Harley peanut tanks or even a regular 5 gal Harley tank. The Vulcan's have a single backbone under the tank which give us flexibility in the tanks we can use. Now that said with either of those you'll have to make some mod's to make them work. Speedo relocation in some cases, welding attachment points to the frame, etc....

Take a look at this VN800 with a peanut tank
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	efter2.jpg
Views:	28
Size:	96.2 KB
ID:	179834  

Current stock:
2011 Vulcan Vaquero
2000 Vulcan Classic (800) - Bobber Project
1978 GS750
NEvulcan is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Kawasaki Vulcan Forum : Vulcan Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome