Fuel problem? - Page 2 - Kawasaki Vulcan Forum : Vulcan Forums
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post #11 of 42 (permalink) Old 11-09-2012, 04:59 PM
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http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmot...49601#sch74613

I had just looked it up when Phil posted.

There are several threads here on the forums on this same problem and most end up with a bad petcock.

If you have to go into the carb one of the carb wizzards can take over and get you going.

I didn't realize the oem needle wasn't a higher price, the dyna jets and cobra needles run in the 75 dollar range and I figured the oem would be much higher. But no sense putting the cart before the horse yet til you have ruled out the petcock valve.
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post #12 of 42 (permalink) Old 11-10-2012, 06:23 PM Thread Starter
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Well friends, good news. I'm writing this for the second time as my computer decided it apparently didn't like my first comments because it erased them.

I checked the petcock, all was well with it, worked just like it should. After a good Google search I discovered that sometimes the float sticks on these. I took the air breather assembly off and could clearly see gas flow exiting from the bottom forward area of the carb. From there I took some decent carb cleaner and gave it a few good squirts. From there I worked the throttle a little, took a piece of wood and small rubber mallet and tapped gently but firmly all around the showing carb, of course not hitting the actual opening. Then I sprayed again, working the throttle again to move anything around that might be in the way. Afterwards, I cleaned up the carb with a clean rag, cleaned my forward cylinder housing off and dried it. I spent about 5 minutes bolting down the back of the tank (was easier to remove the air cleaner assy this way), bolted down the seat and really was just goofing off a little. I came back to it, completely dry. I read quite a few forums where this worked with great success, and it worked for me.

My back brake is still sticking. I removed the arm from the rod/cable assy and it moves freely when not attached. My question is there any way to lube those? I have seen a tool online that you attach to the cable and it mystically lubes the inside between the rubber and cable. Does anyone have experience with this? Or do I resign myself to buying a new assy?

On a different note. On the air box, back side there is a plastic clip attached at the 5 o'clock position slightly under and forward of the back bend of the exhaust. It holds some kind of cable that I really couldn't tell where goes. Anyhow, I kinda sorta broke it. I feel it was dried out kind of like on an 80's car wiring harness where you bend the clip to remove the connector and it just breaks. My question is of course how bad is this? I will be looking for a new box so it doesn't mess anything up, but is it ok for now? Remember I just bought this bike recently so I don't have a service manual just yet for it. Bare with me.

I really appreciate all your help guys. I tried to honor the forum by posting my results as best as I could. Thank you.
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post #13 of 42 (permalink) Old 11-10-2012, 06:42 PM
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Honestly, if this solves your carb issues for any real length of time I will be very surprised.

As for the airbox, could you take a pic? Are you talking about where the idle adjuster attaches to the airbox? Or where the hoses attach to the back?

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post #14 of 42 (permalink) Old 11-10-2012, 06:46 PM Thread Starter
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Hey Phil, I agree but at least I know what it most likely it is. All else fails I'll just rebuild the lil guy. Here is a pic of it, dirty fingers and all. I'm thinking it probably just held it in place really. It's not to where it can fall out, its not broken that bad, you can just wiggle it a little with your fingers.
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post #15 of 42 (permalink) Old 11-10-2012, 06:47 PM Thread Starter
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I was way off in my description of location I guess, When I saw the pic on my computer without enlarging it I thought that was the exhaust but instead its the air breather. LoL long day here!
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post #16 of 42 (permalink) Old 11-10-2012, 06:50 PM
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Your finger is on the idle adjuster. It can just hang there. It shouldn't cause any issues.

Since its about winter, I would plan on just pulling the carb at somepoint and really giving it a go. Pull all the jets and clean out all the passages with carb cleaner and compressed air. I would dip all the parts you can.

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post #17 of 42 (permalink) Old 11-10-2012, 06:53 PM Thread Starter
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Right on man. Like I said I'm not really a carb guy. Luckily some of my riding buddies are. I've already had one offer to go ahead and rebuild it if need be.
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post #18 of 42 (permalink) Old 11-10-2012, 06:59 PM
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It's actually quite easy. I would recommend doing it yourself or at least with him. You will quickly become a "carb" guy. I am not the most mechanically inclined, but I learned quite quickly while rebuilding older CV carbs on my first bike, an old Suzuki GS twin.

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post #19 of 42 (permalink) Old 11-10-2012, 07:02 PM Thread Starter
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Yea I planned to help or do it myself with his supervision. I mostly refuse to take anything of mine to the shop if I can get away from it. I've been into bikes for about 5 years and have had several, but all I've ever had was FI. Like I said, the only success I've ever had with a carb was an RC gas powered car once, and I think that was a fluke..
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post #20 of 42 (permalink) Old 11-10-2012, 07:14 PM
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Luckily, the carb in the 800 is pretty well documented as its almost the same, only slightly smaller, than what has been on Harleys. I recommend doing some web searching for CV40, what's on the Harley, and CVK36, which is on the 800.

The key to working on them is just taking your time, document what you do, use platic bags or cups labeled to where the parts came from and lastly, don't force anything.


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