Rear Sprocket Question - Kawasaki Vulcan Forum : Vulcan Forums
 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-04-2012, 04:46 PM Thread Starter
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Rear Sprocket Question

On my 2000 800 classic I seem to have broke a tooth off on the rear sprocket. When I hit the throttle it kickes the rear end on me a bit. So I plan on changing the spocket and chain at the same time. Is there any advantage to putting a larger sprocket with more teeth on it? It seems easy to change, I just have to get a service manual to see how to change out the front sprocket (might as well do it all at once).

I just wanted some advice if its better to go with a 46 tooth sprocket?
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-04-2012, 05:43 PM
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Not sure on the 2000, but think is the same sprockets as the 05s, 41 rear, 17 front. If this is the case on yours, going to a 46 on the rear, you would not be able to do any speeds above may 60-70, but could about change the rotation of the earth. Most are using smaller rear sprockets, 39-41 tooth, to lower thier crusing RPMs. Many also use an 18 tooth front, or some combonation of the above. Definetly advise changing both sprockets and chain at the same time. On the front, once you get the cover off, one bolt on rear of cover, just under the ignition.The nut should have a washer behind it that has at least 2 sides flated against the nut. Tap these away from the nut, and loosen the nut. This may be easier said than done. If you have an impact, use it! Comes off counterclockwise. May help to have helper hold front break to keep motor from rotating, and motor in gear. A broken tooth on the sprocket isnt good. Sounds like chain was skipping. Adjust chain to have 3/4 to 1 1/4 slack on bottom in the middle of distance between sprockets.
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-04-2012, 06:09 PM
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I'll second using an impact wrench on the front sprocket. You'll be struggling a long time otherwise.

FKA Dan S
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-04-2012, 06:57 PM Thread Starter
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thanks guys. I've been pricing the parts needed, just having problems finding quality parts that will last. Is it better to use a riveted chain link or one that clips on???


Sorry bout the questions, this is my first chain drive, my other bike was shaft
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-04-2012, 11:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chevyman View Post
thanks guys. I've been pricing the parts needed, just having problems finding quality parts that will last. Is it better to use a riveted chain link or one that clips on???


Sorry bout the questions, this is my first chain drive, my other bike was shaft
I assume you're asking about using a masterlink vs a solid link. I've used both with no problems on many bikes. I like the convenience of a masterlink at times because I can remove the chain easily for cleaning and lubing. To me there really isn't any difference in performance or safety.

I'll get blasted by someone for saying that. There are many who will say a solid link is stronger therefore safer. Which may be true, I'm not an engineer. But I don't do burnouts, drag race or travel at mach I speeds. I have never had an issue with a masterlink not doing what it is supposed to do, keep the chain together. I have been in situations where removal of the chain was needed and with limited tools on hand the masterlink was a blessing.

Your choice, with me it's fine either way.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-05-2012, 07:38 AM
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Counting the stock chain, I'm on my 5th one now, always used a master link to put them back together. This is my 1st bike as well, owned since was new.
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